the f/old in fashion practice

Daniela Monasterios-Tan

doi:10.1386/9781789389685_10

the f/old in fashion practice

By Daniela Monasterios-Tan¹
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¹ LASALLE College of the Arts
Source: artmaking as embodied enquiry , pp 184-196
Publication Date: March 2025
DOI: https://doi.org/10.1386/9781789389685_10
Language: English

Daniela Monasterios-Tan's chapter delves into the transformative potential of the fold, or f/ol\d, at the intersection of fashion pedagogy and practice. Focused on a dance and fashion cross-disciplinary project, she examines challenges in merging movement and fashion design. Drawing on Gilles Deleuze's fold theories, Monasterios-Tan highlights the dynamic nature of folds, moving away from static garment-making. Her participation in Dr. Tsai-Chun Huang's Plica Ex Plica workshop expands her insight into pleats, emphasizing their role in liberating bodily movement, with references to avant-garde designers like Mariano Fortuny and Issey Miyake.

Shifting to a free-form origami approach, Monasterios-Tan encourages students to disrupt traditional garment functions. Exploring folds as an interface, she challenges established norms by examining internal body folds. Case studies of fashion photographer Arielle Bobb-Willis and designer Karoline Vitto illustrate the representation of internal folds in visual art and fashion. Ultimately, the chapter reflects on the fold's multifaceted nature, revealing its malleability when released from structural constraints—a dynamic force in contemporary fashion, disrupting traditional boundaries for a more fluid and expansive design approach.

Keywords: contemporary fashion ; cross-disciplinary ; embodied folds ; fashion pedagogy ; free form origami ; Gilles Deleuze ; innovative fashion design ; internal body fold ; issey miyake ; mariano fortuny ; movement ; origami ; pleats ; Singapore fashion design

Hardback ISBN: 9781789389685

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the f/old in fashion practice

Intellect , 184 (2025); https://doi.org/10.1386/9781789389685_10

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References

Granata, Francesca. Experimental Fashion: Performance Art, Carnival and the Grotesque Body. New York, NY: I.B. Taurus, 2017.196
[Google Scholar]
Huang, Tsai-Chun. “Call for Participants for Plica ex Plica Result Driven Workshop.” Prague Quadrennial 2019, 2019. January 7, 2020. Accessed July 1, 2022. https://www.pq.cz/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/Plica-Ex-Plica.pdf.
[Google Scholar]
Huang, Tsai-Chun. “Plica ex Plica,” 2019. Accessed July 1, 2022. https://www.huangtsaichun.com/pq-plica-ex-plica.
Life Framer. “Interview: Comfortable with Being Uncomfortable with Arielle Bobb-Willis.” Accessed July 1, 2022. https://www.life-framer.com/arielle-bobb-willis/.
Monasterios-Tan, Daniela, Susan Sentler, and Ginette Chittick “The Threshold of Language: Design and Soma.” In Design Culture(s). Cumulus Conference Proceedings Roma 2021, Volume 2 edited by Loredana Di Lucchio, Lorenzo Imbesi, Angela Giambattista, and Viktor Malakuczi, 1063–81. Cumulus Conference Proceedings Series, N°7, 2021. Accessed July 1, 2022. https://cumulusroma2020.org/proceedings/.
[Google Scholar]
Smelik, Anneke. “Gilles Deleuze: Bodies-Without-Organs in the Folds of Fashion.” In Thinking Through Fashion, edited by Agnes Rocamora and Anneke Smelik, 165–83. London, UK: I.B. Taurus, 2016.
[Google Scholar]
Tindle, Hannah. “Karoline Vitto, the Designer Celebrating Fat Rolls and ‘Excesses of Flesh’.” AnOther Magazine (March 16, 2021). Accessed July 1, 2022. https://www.anothermag.com/fashion-beauty/13179/karoline-vitto-the-designer-celebrating-fat-rolls-and-excesses-of-flesh.
[Google Scholar]

References

Granata, Francesca. Experimental Fashion: Performance Art, Carnival and the Grotesque Body. New York, NY: I.B. Taurus, 2017.196
[Google Scholar]
Huang, Tsai-Chun. “Call for Participants for Plica ex Plica Result Driven Workshop.” Prague Quadrennial 2019, 2019. January 7, 2020. Accessed July 1, 2022. https://www.pq.cz/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/Plica-Ex-Plica.pdf.
[Google Scholar]
Huang, Tsai-Chun. “Plica ex Plica,” 2019. Accessed July 1, 2022. https://www.huangtsaichun.com/pq-plica-ex-plica.
Life Framer. “Interview: Comfortable with Being Uncomfortable with Arielle Bobb-Willis.” Accessed July 1, 2022. https://www.life-framer.com/arielle-bobb-willis/.
Monasterios-Tan, Daniela, Susan Sentler, and Ginette Chittick “The Threshold of Language: Design and Soma.” In Design Culture(s). Cumulus Conference Proceedings Roma 2021, Volume 2 edited by Loredana Di Lucchio, Lorenzo Imbesi, Angela Giambattista, and Viktor Malakuczi, 1063–81. Cumulus Conference Proceedings Series, N°7, 2021. Accessed July 1, 2022. https://cumulusroma2020.org/proceedings/.
[Google Scholar]
Smelik, Anneke. “Gilles Deleuze: Bodies-Without-Organs in the Folds of Fashion.” In Thinking Through Fashion, edited by Agnes Rocamora and Anneke Smelik, 165–83. London, UK: I.B. Taurus, 2016.
[Google Scholar]
Tindle, Hannah. “Karoline Vitto, the Designer Celebrating Fat Rolls and ‘Excesses of Flesh’.” AnOther Magazine (March 16, 2021). Accessed July 1, 2022. https://www.anothermag.com/fashion-beauty/13179/karoline-vitto-the-designer-celebrating-fat-rolls-and-excesses-of-flesh.
[Google Scholar]

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[ref-c09bib2] Granata, Francesca. Experimental Fashion: Performance Art, Carnival and the Grotesque Body. New York, NY: I.B. Taurus, 2017.196
[Google Scholar]

[ref-c09bib3] Huang, Tsai-Chun. “Call for Participants for Plica ex Plica Result Driven Workshop.” Prague Quadrennial 2019, 2019. January 7, 2020. Accessed July 1, 2022. https://www.pq.cz/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/Plica-Ex-Plica.pdf.
[Google Scholar]

[ref-c09bib4] Huang, Tsai-Chun. “Plica ex Plica,” 2019. Accessed July 1, 2022. https://www.huangtsaichun.com/pq-plica-ex-plica.

[ref-c09bib5] Life Framer. “Interview: Comfortable with Being Uncomfortable with Arielle Bobb-Willis.” Accessed July 1, 2022. https://www.life-framer.com/arielle-bobb-willis/.

[ref-c09bib6] Monasterios-Tan, Daniela, Susan Sentler, and Ginette Chittick “The Threshold of Language: Design and Soma.” In Design Culture(s). Cumulus Conference Proceedings Roma 2021, Volume 2 edited by Loredana Di Lucchio, Lorenzo Imbesi, Angela Giambattista, and Viktor Malakuczi, 1063–81. Cumulus Conference Proceedings Series, N°7, 2021. Accessed July 1, 2022. https://cumulusroma2020.org/proceedings/.
[Google Scholar]

[ref-c09bib9] Smelik, Anneke. “Gilles Deleuze: Bodies-Without-Organs in the Folds of Fashion.” In Thinking Through Fashion, edited by Agnes Rocamora and Anneke Smelik, 165–83. London, UK: I.B. Taurus, 2016.
[Google Scholar]

[ref-c09bib10] Tindle, Hannah. “Karoline Vitto, the Designer Celebrating Fat Rolls and ‘Excesses of Flesh’.” AnOther Magazine (March 16, 2021). Accessed July 1, 2022. https://www.anothermag.com/fashion-beauty/13179/karoline-vitto-the-designer-celebrating-fat-rolls-and-excesses-of-flesh.
[Google Scholar]

the f/old in fashion practice

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