Skip to content
1981
Volume 6, Issue 1
  • ISSN: 2050-0742
  • E-ISSN: 2050-0750

Abstract

All major cities have a unique ‘atmosphere’ that influences inhabitants and visitors, and that shapes ideas and objects related to it. The identity of a city is a social construct, and this symbolic, imaginary construct is associated with a specific local production system. With its heritage combining Roman, Byzantine and Ottoman elements and its contemporary urban life, Istanbul is recognized as one of the world’s cultural capitals. Turkey, on the other hand, is one of the world’s leading textile-manufacturing countries, with the majority of products made in and around Istanbul. This is noteworthy at a time when the consumer fashion industry simultaneously is drawing on discourses of exoticism, the primitive, orientalism and authenticity, one factor underlying the breakdown of the monopoly of Milan, Paris, New York and London on fashion. Drawing on primary research undertaken through semi-structured interviews with designers, social media specialists and textile engineers in Turkey, this article provides an overview of the contemporary Turkish fashion industry with a focus on neo-Ottoman style. The article begins by evaluating Istanbul’s contemporary fashion industry and continues with how fashion produced in Istanbul affects Istanbul’s image worldwide, and finally explains how Istanbul reciprocally affects the designs created in this city.

Loading

Article metrics loading...

/content/journals/10.1386/cc_00004_1
2019-03-01
2026-01-18
Loading full text...

Full text loading...

References

  1. Arna, Sibel. ( 2013;), ‘ Muhteşem Yüzyıl’ın 100 bölümlük stil haritası’ (‘Style map of 100 episodes of Magnificent Century’). , Hurriyet , 18 May, http://www.hurriyet.com.tr/kelebek/muhtesem-yuzyil-in-100-bolumluk-stil-haritasi-23303556. Accessed 13 January 2019.
  2. Aşkın, Suat. ( 2016;), ‘ Impact of Turquality model on branding and international marketing. ’, TEM Journal, 5:2, pp. 20916.
    [Google Scholar]
  3. Barış, Aslı. ( 2014;), ‘ Istanbul’da doğdu dünya çapında fenomen oldu’ (‘He was born in Istanbul and became a phenomenon’). , Hurriyet , 18 October, http://www.hurriyet.com.tr/kelebek/stil/Istanbul-da-dogdu-dunya-capinda-fenomen-oldu-27402403. Accessed 14 January 2019.
  4. Barış, Aslı. ( 2016;), ‘ Dünya modasının yeni Türk süperstarı: Dilara Fındıkoğlu’ (‘The new Turkish superstar of world fashion: Dilara Fındıkoğlu’). , Hurriyet , 28 October, http://www.hurriyet.com.tr/kelebek/stil/dunya-modasinin-yeni-turk-superstari-dilara-findikoglu-40261457. Accessed 12 September 2019.
  5. Bıçakçı, Ayşe Banu. ( 2010;), ‘ Branding the city through culture: Istanbul, European Capital of Culture 2010. ’, International Journal of Human Sciences, 9:1, pp. 9931006.
    [Google Scholar]
  6. Çakmakçı, Barış. ( 2018), interviewed by the author, Istanbul , 7 July.
  7. Coneely, Vanessa. ( 2017), Made in Turkey: Turkish Fashion Industry, Istanbul:: TRT World;.
    [Google Scholar]
  8. Duran, Aslı, and Dinç, Dilek Temiz. ( 2016;), ‘ The state of the Turkish textile and ready-wear industries. ’, İnsan ve Toplum Bilimleri Araştırmaları Dergisi (Journal of Human and Society Research), 5:3, pp. 50519.
    [Google Scholar]
  9. Erdoğan, Niyazi. ( 2018), interviewed by the author, Istanbul , 4 July.
  10. Florida, R.,, Mellander, C., and Stolarick, K.. ( 2008;), ‘ Inside the black box of regional development. ’, Journal of Economic Geography, 8, pp. 61549.
    [Google Scholar]
  11. Fowler, Susanne. ( 2011;), ‘ The dirt, and the soap, on the Ottoman Empire. ’, The New York Times, 18 March, https://www.nytimes.com/2011/03/17/world/middleeast/17iht-m17-soap.html. Accessed 13 January 2019.
    [Google Scholar]
  12. Gilbert, David. ( 2000;), ‘ Urban outfitting: The city and the spaces of fashion culture. ’, in S. Bruzzi, and P. C. Gibson. (eds), Fashion Cultures: Theories, Explorations and Analysis, London and New York:: Routledge;, pp. 724.
    [Google Scholar]
  13. Gilbert, David. ( 2006;), ‘ From Paris to Shangai: The changing geographies of fashion’s world cities. ’, in C. Breward, and D. Gilbert. (eds), Fashion’s World Cities, Oxford and New York:: Berg;, pp. 332.
    [Google Scholar]
  14. Godart, Frédéric. ( 2014;), ‘ The power structure of the fashion industry: Fashion capitals, globalization and creativity. ’, International Journal of Fashion Studies, 1:1, pp. 3955.
    [Google Scholar]
  15. Gürses, Esra. ( 2018), interviewed by the author, Istanbul , 6 November.
  16. Hürriyet Daily News ( 2012;), ‘ Designer promotes Ottoman motifs to the world. ’, Hurriyet Daily News, 1 May, http://www.hurriyetdailynews.com/designer-promotes-ottoman-motifs-to-the-world-19607. Accessed 6 January 2019.
    [Google Scholar]
  17. İhlas Haber Ajansı (İHA) ( 2011;), ‘ Pazarın büyümesi markalaşmaktan geçiyor’ (‘The growth of the market goes through branding’). , IHA;, 13 July, https://www.iha.com.tr/haber-pazarin-buyumesi-markalasmaktan-geciyor-183825/. Accessed 8 November 2019.
    [Google Scholar]
  18. İnce, Sinem. (ed.) ( 2016), Türkiye’nin Tekstil Sektörünü Kuran Sümerbanklılar (Founder of Turkish Textile Industry: Sumerbank), Istanbul:: Doğan Burda Dergi Yayıncılık A.Ş;.
    [Google Scholar]
  19. Istanbul Il Kültür Turizm Müdürlüğü ( 2017;), ‘ Istanbul Turizm Istatistikleri Raporu’ (‘Istanbul tourism statistic reports’). , December, https://istanbul.ktb.gov.tr/Eklenti/56803,aralik-2017pdf.pdf?0. Accessed 9 September 2019.
  20. ITKIB HEDEF ( 2018;), ‘ Türkiye ihracat raporları’ (‘Export raports of Turkey’). , Istanbul Tekstil ve Konfeksiyon İhracatçı Birlikleri Aylık Dergisi (Monthly Magazine of Istanbul Apparel Exporter Associations), 294, 1 June, pp. 9094.
    [Google Scholar]
  21. Jansson, Johan, and Power, Dominic. ( 2010;), ‘ Fashioning a global city: Global city brand channels in the fashion and design industries. ’, Regional Studies, 44:7, pp. 889904.
    [Google Scholar]
  22. Kapalıçarşı ( 2018;), ‘ Kapalıçarşı…’ (‘Grand bazaar…’). , https://www.kapalicarsi.com.tr/?page_id=16. Accessed 19 September 2018.
  23. Karaatlı, Melda. ( 2018), interviewed by the author, Istanbul , 5 January.
  24. Kawamura, Yuniya. ( 2016), Moda-loji: Moda Çalışmalarına Giriş (Fashion-ology: An Introduction To Fashion Studies), Istanbul:: Ayrıntı;.
    [Google Scholar]
  25. Kraidy, Marwan, and Al-Ghazzi, Omar. ( 2013;), ‘ Neo-Ottoman cool: Turkish popular culture in the Arab public sphere. ’, Popular Communication, 11:1, pp. 1729.
    [Google Scholar]
  26. Leventon, Melissa. (ed.) ( 2008;), ‘ Byzantium. ’, Costume Worldwide: A Historical Sourcebook, London:: Thames & Hudson;, pp. 4041.
    [Google Scholar]
  27. The Magnificent Century ( 2011–14, Turkey:: Tims Productions;).
    [Google Scholar]
  28. Martinez, Javier Gimeno. ( 2006;), ‘ Selling avant-garde: How Antwerp became a fashion capital (1990-2002). ’, Urban Studies, 44:12, pp. 244964.
    [Google Scholar]
  29. Masur, Özgür. ( 2018), interviewed by author, Istanbul , 5 June.
  30. McRobbie, Angela. ( 2005), British Fashion Design: Rag Trade or Image Industry?, London and New York:: Taylor and Francis;.
    [Google Scholar]
  31. Milliyet ( 2017;), ‘ Türkiye Müslüman Turistlerin Gözdeleri Arasında’ (‘Turkey is one of the favourite countries of Muslim tourists’). , Milliyet , 5 June, http://www.milliyet.com.tr/yerel-haberler/istanbul/turkiye-musluman-turistlerin-gozdeleri-arasinda-12020587/. Accessed 10 June 2018.
  32. d’Ovidio, Marianna, and Haddock, Serena V.. ( 2007;), ‘ Fashion and the city: Social interaction and creativity in London and Milan. ’, European Urban Research Association (EURA) 10th Anniversary Conference ‘The Vital City’, University of Glasgow, UK, 12–14 September.
    [Google Scholar]
  33. Özedincik, Sinan. ( 2015;), ‘ Türkiye’yi Ortadoğu’nun moda tasarım merkezi haline getirmeyi hedefliyorum’ (‘I am planning to make Turkey the Middle East’s fashion design centre’). , Sabah, 7 June, https://www.sabah.com.tr/yazarlar/sinan-ozedincik/2015/06/07/turkiye-tasarim-merkezi-olacak. Accessed 22 July 2018.
    [Google Scholar]
  34. Özdemir, Sadi. ( 2017;), ‘ Tekstilde kimlerle rekabet ediyoruz’ (‘With whom do we compete in textile industry?’). , Hurriyet , 23 February, http://www.hurriyet.com.tr/ekonomi/tekstilde-kimlerle-rekabet-ediyoruz-40375737. Accessed 3 April 2018.
  35. Özer, I˙lbeyi. ( 2014), Osmanlı’dan Cumhuriyet’e Yaşam ve Moda (Life and Fashion from Ottoman Empire to Turkish Republic), , 5th ed.., Istanbul:: Truva;.
    [Google Scholar]
  36. Rocamora, Agnès. ( 2006;), ‘ Paris, capital de la mode. ’, in C. Breward, and D. Gilbert. (eds), Fashion’s World Cities, Oxford and New York:: Berg;, pp. 4354.
    [Google Scholar]
  37. Rocamora, Agnès, and Entwistle, Joanne. ( 2006;), ‘ The field of fashion materialized: A study of London fashion week. ’, Sociology, 40:4, pp. 73551.
    [Google Scholar]
  38. Sassen, Saskia. ( 2005;), ‘ The global city: Introducing a concept. ’, The Brown Journal of World Affairs, XI:2, pp. 2743.
    [Google Scholar]
  39. Sevil, Bengü. ( 2006;), ‘ Moda Sektöründe Küresel Marka Yaratılması: Markalaşma Çalışmaları Üzerine Bir Uygulama’ (‘Creating a global brand in fashion industry: A practice in branding’). , MA dissertation, 9 Eylül University, Izmir;.
    [Google Scholar]
  40. Süer, Özlem. ( 2018), e-mail to author , 18 September.
  41. TGRT Haber ( 2006;), ‘ Modacı Atıl Kutoğlu’nun, New York’taki “Osmanlı ve Mozart” defilesi büyük beğeni topladı. New York Türk Ticaret Ataşesi Tuba İçen: “Kutoğlu’nu devletçe destekliyoruz”’ (‘Atıl Kutoğlu’s “Ottoman Mozart” show wins recognition – Turkish New York commercial, Attache Tuba İçen: “The Turkish government supports Kutoğlu”’). , TGRTHaber , 5 February, https://www.tgrthaber.com.tr/haber/340962.html. Accessed 12 September 2019.
  42. Tokatlı, Nebahat. ( 2003;), ‘ Globalization and the changing clothing industry in Turkey. ’, Environment & Planning A, 35:1, pp. 187794.
    [Google Scholar]
  43. Tokatlı, Nebahat, and Kızılgün, Ömür. ( 2004;), ‘ Upgrading in the global clothing industry: Mavi Jeans and the transformation of a Turkish firm from full-package to brand-name manufacturing and retailing. ’, Economic Geography, 80:3, pp. 22140.
    [Google Scholar]
  44. Tokatlı, Nebahat, and Kızılgün, Ömür. ( 2009;), ‘ From manufacturing garments for ready to wear to designing collections for fast fashion: Evidence from Turkey. ’, Environment & Planning A, 41, pp. 14662.
    [Google Scholar]
  45. Tokatlı, N.,, Kızılgün, Ö., and Cho, J. E.. ( 2011;), ‘ The clothing industry in Istanbul in the era of globalisation and fast fashion. ’, Urban Studies Journal, 48:6, pp. 120115.
    [Google Scholar]
  46. Türkiye Giyim Sanayicileri Derneği (TGSD) ( 2017;), ‘ Why Turkey? Sonuç Raporu’ (‘Why Turkey? Final report’). , Instanbul Moda Konferansi, http://www.istanbulmodakonferansi.com/SonucRaporu10TR.pdf. Accessed 8 November 2019.
  47. Uğural, Erkan. ( 2019), interviewed by the author, Istanbul , 4 January.
  48. Yarış, Sümeyra. ( 2012), Istanbul’un 100 Sanayi Kuruluşu: Istanbul’un Yüzleri Serisi 55 (100 Industrial Institutions of Istanbul: Faces of Istanbul 55), Istanbul:: Kültür A.Ş;.
    [Google Scholar]
  49. Yılmaz, Neslişah. ( 2018), e-mail to author , 10 June.
  50. Ulusoy, N.. ( 2019;), ‘ It’s hard to do fashion in Istanbul – or is it?. ’, Clothing Cultures, 6:1, pp. 5775, doi: 10.1386/cc_00004_1
    [Google Scholar]
/content/journals/10.1386/cc_00004_1
Loading
/content/journals/10.1386/cc_00004_1
Loading

Data & Media loading...

This is a required field
Please enter a valid email address
Approval was a success
Invalid data
An error occurred
Approval was partially successful, following selected items could not be processed due to error
Please enter a valid_number test