Skip to content
1981
Volume 11, Issue 2
  • ISSN: 2050-0742
  • E-ISSN: 2050-0750

Abstract

This article examines the way in which the identities of urban, Generation X (Gen X) Indonesian women are expressed through their use of modern kebaya. A traditional Indonesian garment that has adapted to social and technological advancements, the kebaya retains its cultural significance. A national dress that is worn for a variety of events and reflects both tradition and contemporary fashion trends, it has transformed from a symbol of nobility. This article focuses on changes in meaning, identity, cultural adaptation and non-verbal communication related to the modern kebaya. Using a phenomenological approach to explore the experiences of these women reflects their cultural identity and social values. Ten Gen X women who actively wear kebaya at various formal and informal events became respondents in this study. The main objective is to understand how these women balance tradition with modernity in their choice of kebaya and what this reveals about their cultural identity and values. The article specifically examined why Gen X women embrace modern kebaya styles and how they balance kebaya’s role as a symbol of traditional pride in a progressively modern society. This article utilizes Miles and Huberman’s data analysis. This technique thoroughly explores qualitative data gathered through interviews and observations, it supports thematic analysis of cultural symbols and personal identity expressions; offering insights into how Gen X women navigate the intersection of tradition and modern kebaya. This approach aims to contribute to a broader understanding of how traditional clothing such as kebaya evolves in response to contemporary lifestyle demands while maintaining its cultural significance.

© 2024 Intellect Ltd
Loading

Article metrics loading...

/content/journals/10.1386/cc_00092_1
2025-10-24
2026-04-12

Metrics

Loading full text...

Full text loading...

References

  1. Adriati, I., Damajanti, A. B. Z. I. and Zainsjah, A. B. (2018), ‘Women’s perspective on the Surakarta kebaya based on biographies of Gusti Noeroel and Utami Suryadarma’, Journal of Visual Art and Design, 10:2, pp. 142–54, https://doi.org/10.5614/j.vad.2018.10.2.4.
     [Google Scholar]
  2. Bessouh, N., Saidi, T. and Belarbi, A. (2017), ‘Women and the purchasing decision’, British Journal of Marketing Studies, 5:9, pp. 1–12, https://bjmsjournal.org/index.php/bjms/article/view/206. Accessed 27 July 2025.
     [Google Scholar]
  3. Beyer, C. (2012), ‘Husserl on understanding persons’, Intersubjectivity and Objectivity in Adam Smith and Edmund Husserl, Frankfurt: Ontos Verlag, pp. 93–116.
     [Google Scholar]
  4. Creswell, J. W. and Creswell, J. D. (2017), Research Design: Qualitative, Quantitative, and Mixed Methods Approaches, Thousand Oaks, CA: Sage Publications.
     [Google Scholar]
  5. Dalby, L. C. (2001), Kimono: Fashioning Culture, London: Random House.
     [Google Scholar]
  6. Damajanti, I. (2006), Art Psychology, Bandung: Kiblat Press.
     [Google Scholar]
  7. Fatmawati, E. (2021), ‘Strategies to grow a proud attitude towards Indonesian cultural diversity’, Linguistics and Culture Review, pp. 810–20, https://doi.org/10.37028/lingcure.v5nS1.1465.
     [Google Scholar]
  8. Frankel, R. M. and Devers, K. J. (2000), ‘Study design in qualitative research 1: Developing questions and assessing resource needs’, Education for Health (Abingdon), 13:2, pp. 251–61, https://doi.org/10.1080/13576280050074534.
     [Google Scholar]
  9. Fukatsu, Y. (2014), ‘Traditional textile design for social innovation toward sustainability in Japan’, Textile Society of America 2014 Biennial Symposium Proceedings: New Directions: Examining the Past, Creating the Future, Los Angeles, CA, USA, 10–14 September, https://digitalcommons.unl.edu/tsaconf/915/. Accessed 29 July 2025.
     [Google Scholar]
  10. Geczy, A. and Karaminas, V. (eds) (2018), The End of Fashion: Clothing and Dress in the Age of Globalization, London: Bloomsbury Publishing.
     [Google Scholar]
  11. Goodrick, D. and Rogers, P. J. (2015), ‘Qualitative data analysis’, in K. E. Newcomer, H. P. Hatry and J. S. Wholey (eds), Handbook of Practical Program Evaluation, pp. 561–95, Chichester: John Wiley & Sons, https://doi.org/10.1002/9781119171386.ch22.
     [Google Scholar]
  12. Hatley, B. (2015), Performing Contemporary Indonesia: Celebrating Identity, Constructing Community, vol. 297, Leiden: Brill.
     [Google Scholar]
  13. Hecht, M. L., Faulkner, S. L., Meyer, C. R., Niles, T. A., Golden, D. and Cutler, M. (2002), ‘Looking through Northern Exposure at Jewish American identity and the communication theory of identity.’, Journal of Communication, 52:4, pp. 852–69, https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1460-2466.2002.tb02577.x.
     [Google Scholar]
  14. Jackson, V., Stoel, L. and Brantley, A. (2011), ‘Mall attributes and shopping value: Differences by gender and generational cohort’, Journal of Retailing and Consumer Services, 18:1, pp. 1–9, https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jretconser.2010.08.002.
     [Google Scholar]
  15. Jones, Trina and Roberts, Jessica L. (2020), ‘Genetic race? DNA ancestry tests, racial identity, and the law’, Columbia Law Review, 120, pp. 1929–2016, https://www.columbialawreview.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/Jones-Roberts-Genetic_Race-DNA_Ancestry_Tests_Racial_Identity_and_the_Law.pdf. Accessed 8 August 2025.
     [Google Scholar]
  16. Jung, E. and Hecht, M. L. (2004), ‘Elaborating the communication theory of identity: Identity gaps and communication outcomes’, Communication Quarterly, 52:3, pp. 265–83, https://doi.org/10.1080/01463370409370197.
     [Google Scholar]
  17. Kusumadewi, P. D. A. and Jerusalem, M. A. (2023), ‘A review: The transformation of the meaning of kebaya from national clothing to a media of self-representation and lifestyle’, Mudra Jurnal Seni Budaya, 38:2, pp. 174–87, https://doi.org/10.31091/mudra.v38i2.2005.
     [Google Scholar]
  18. Lazarevic, V. (2012), ‘Encouraging brand loyalty in fickle Generation Y consumers’, Young Consumers, 13:1, pp. 45–61, https://doi.org/10.1108/17473611211203939.
     [Google Scholar]
  19. Leung, J. W. K. and Taylor, G. (2002), ‘Fashion buying criteria of X Generation consumers in Hong Kong’, Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International Journal, 6:1, pp. 63–76, https://doi.org/10.1108/13612020210422473.
     [Google Scholar]
  20. Lissitsa, S. and Kol, O. (2016), ‘Generation X vs. Generation Y: A decade of online shopping’, Journal of Retailing and Consumer Services, 31, pp. 304–12, https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jretconser.2016.04.015.
     [Google Scholar]
  21. Littrell, M. A., Jin Ma, Y. and Halepete, J. (2005), ‘Generation X, baby boomers, and swing: Marketing fair trade apparel’, Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International Journal, 9:4, pp. 407–19, https://doi.org/10.1108/13612020510620786.
     [Google Scholar]
  22. Miles, M. B. (1994), Qualitative Data Analysis: An Expanded Sourcebook, Thousand Oaks, CA: Sage Publications.
     [Google Scholar]
  23. Nagata, T. and Sunarya, Y. Y. (2023), ‘Perkembangan kebaya kontemporer sebagai transformasi budaya’, Jurnal Seni dan Reka Rancang: Jurnal Ilmiah Magister Desain, 5:2, pp. 239–54, https://doi.org/10.25105/jsrr.v5i2.16502.
     [Google Scholar]
  24. Parahoo, K. (2014), Nursing Research: Principles, Process and Issues, London: Bloomsbury Publishing.
     [Google Scholar]
  25. Syarifudin, A. and Ummah, K. C. (2023), ‘The representation of female beauty in the Instagram pageant lovers’, Digital Theory, Culture & Society, 1:1, pp. 39–52.
     [Google Scholar]
  26. Trismaya, N., Shahab, Y. Z. and Siscawati, M. (2022), ‘From glamorous to everyday value: Kebaya as the medium of women’s self-expression’, Indonesian Journal of Social & Humanity Study/Wacana: Jurnal Sosial dan Humaniora, 25:3, https://doi.org/10.21776/ub.wacana.2022.025.03.01.
     [Google Scholar]
  27. Triyanto, T. (2009), ‘Kreasi Kreatif Kebaya Pasca Reformasi Kreativitas di Tengah Persimpangan Konservasi dan Perkembangan Zaman’, Prosiding Pendidikan Teknik Boga Busana, 4:1, pp. 89–96.
     [Google Scholar]
  28. Ainin, S., Parveen, F., Moghavvemi, S., Jaafar, N. I. and Mohd Shuib, N. L. (2015), ‘Factors influencing the use of social media by SMEs and its performance outcomes’, Industrial Management & Data Systems, 115:3, pp. 570–88, https://doi.org/10.1108/imds-07-2014-0205.
     [Google Scholar]
  29. Back, M. D., Schmukle, S. C. and Egloff, B. (2010), ‘Why are narcissists so charming at first sight? Decoding the narcissism–popularity link at zero acquaintance’, Journal of Personality and Social Psychology, 98:1, pp. 132–45, https://doi.org/10.1037/a0016338.
     [Google Scholar]
  30. Creswell, J. W. and Poth, C. N. (2016), Qualitative Inquiry and Research Design: Choosing among Five Approaches, Thousand Oaks, CA: Sage Publications.
     [Google Scholar]
  31. Geczy, A. (2018), The End of Fashion: Clothing and Dress in the Age of Globalization, London: Bloomsbury USA Academic.
     [Google Scholar]
  32. Gurău, C. (2012), ‘A life‐stage analysis of consumer loyalty profile: Comparing Generation X and Millennial consumers’, Journal of Consumer Marketing, 29:2, pp. 103–13, https://doi.org/10.1108/07363761211206357.
     [Google Scholar]
  33. Hecht, M. L. (1993), ‘2002: A research odyssey: Toward the development of a communication theory of identity’, Communication Monographs, 60:1, pp. 76–82, https://doi.org/10.1080/03637759309376297.
     [Google Scholar]
  34. Irma Hadisurya, N. (2013), Kamus Mode Indonesia, Jakarta: Gramedia Pustaka Utama.
     [Google Scholar]
  35. Lin, Y. T. and Xia, K. N. (2012), ‘Cognitive age and fashion consumption’, International Journal of Consumer Studies, 36:1, pp. 97–105, https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1470-6431.2010.00991.x.
     [Google Scholar]
  36. Nursari, F., Simamora, R. and Arumsari, A. (2024), ‘Zero-waste kebaya design: Integrating the “FRANGIPANI” method to enhance sustainability and utilize leftover lace’, Panggung, 34:3, pp. 418–34, https://doi.org/10.26742/panggung.v34i3.3211.
     [Google Scholar]
  37. Rahardjo, S. and Sedyawati, E. (2011), Peradaban Jawa: Dari Mataram Kuno Sampai Majapahit Akhir, Jakarta: Yayasan Kertagama.
     [Google Scholar]
  38. Rahman, O. and Gong, M. (2016), ‘Sustainable practices and transformable fashion design: Chinese professional and consumer perspectives’, International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education, 9:3, pp. 233–47, https://doi.org/10.1080/17543266.2016.1167256.
     [Google Scholar]
  39. Robinson, R. N. and Baum, T. (2020), ‘Work(ing) artefacts: Tools of the trade, totems or trophies?’, Human Relations, 73:2, pp. 165–89, https://doi.org/10.1177/0018726719828447.
     [Google Scholar]
  40. Selamet, J. (2018), ‘Indonesian batik translation: A case study’, The International Journal of Visual Design, 12:3, pp. 11–17, https://doi.org/10.18848/2325-1581/cgp/v12i03/11-17.
     [Google Scholar]
  41. Servaes, J. and Lie, R. (2003), ‘Media, globalisation and culture: Issues and trends: Theory’, Communication: South African Journal of Communication Theory and Research, 29:12, pp. 7–23, https://hdl.handle.net/10520/EJC27822. Accessed 28 July 2025.
     [Google Scholar]
  42. Simmel, G. (1957), ‘Fashion’, American Journal of Sociology, 62:6, pp. 541–58, https://doi.org/10.1086/222102.
     [Google Scholar]
  43. Smith, B. M. and Sparkes, A. C. (eds) (2016), ‘Breathing in life: Phenomenological perspectives on sport and exercise’, in Routledge Handbook of Qualitative Research in Sport and Exercise, London: Routledge, pp. 103–23.
     [Google Scholar]
  44. Turner, A. (2015), ‘Generation Z: Technology and social interest’, The Journal of Individual Psychology, 71:2, pp. 103–13, https://doi.org/10.1353/jip.2015.0021.
     [Google Scholar]
  45. Widhiastanto, Y. (2016), ‘Pakaian Masyarakat Jawa Kuno Sebagai Sumber Pembelajaran’, Kalpataru: Jurnal Sejarah dan Pembelajaran Sejarah, 2:1, pp. 88–94, https://doi.org/10.31851/kalpataru.v2i1.1320.
     [Google Scholar]
/content/journals/10.1386/cc_00092_1
Loading
Embracing the new, cherishing the old: A phenomenological study of Gen X Indonesian women’s engagement with modern kebaya design
Clothing Cultures 11, 165 (2024); https://doi.org/10.1386/cc_00092_1
/content/journals/10.1386/cc_00092_1
/content/journals/10.1386/cc_00092_1
Loading

Data & Media loading...

  • Article Type: Article
Keyword(s): cultural identity; fashion; Indonesia; modern design; non-verbal communication; phenomenology; traditional clothing; women

Most Cited Most Cited RSS feed

This is a required field
Please enter a valid email address
Approval was a success
Invalid data
An error occurred
Approval was partially successful, following selected items could not be processed due to error
Please enter a valid_number test