Skip to content
1981
Volume 10, Issue 2
  • ISSN: 2040-4417
  • E-ISSN: 2040-4425

Abstract

Abstract

Social conditions in Poland were harsh at the conclusion of World War II. Surprisingly, interest in fashion revived quickly after the war, giving rise in 1945 to a hugely popular fashion press, avidly read by Polish women. The independent magazine Fashion and Practical Life (Moda i Życie Praktyczne), launched in December 1945, was the first of its kind in Poland after the war, and quickly gained a large readership of urban and rural women (and significant numbers of men). It centred on fashion tips – from practical advice on how to remodel existing material into new clothing to more aspirational ideas, crossing over from the necessities of dress or clothing into the more imaginary realm of 'fashion'.

Unlike readers of the fashion press before the war, the readership of this magazine was not leisured or highly literate, but largely 'ordinary' women trying to deal with the realities of their circumstances and to find relief from them. Letters from readers were the centre of the magazine in its early years. They shared their experiences and solutions. This article explores the phenomenon of a genre of publishing for women in Poland through analysis of Fashion and Practical Life from its inception into the early 1950s. It examines the contexts in which it operated and its role in the representation and self-identity of Polish women within this time of transition. The article identifies two key typologies for fashion tips: 'poor fashion' (how to make available materials into liveable garments) and 'imaginary fashion' (the aspirations that Polish women had but could not attain at that time). It also shows that apparently emancipatory trends for women were short-lived. By the early 1950s the narrative of the fashion press reinscribed Polish women back in the home, as housewives.

Loading

Article metrics loading...

/content/journals/10.1386/csfb_00003_1
2019-12-01
2026-02-15
Loading full text...

Full text loading...

References

  1. Bartlett, Djurdja. (2011);, 'Fashion under socialism'. , in Djurja Bartless, and Pamela Smith. (eds), Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion: East Europe, Russia and the Caucasus, London:: Bloomsbury;.
    [Google Scholar]
  2. Boćkowska, Aleksandra. (2015), To nie są moje wielbłądy. O modzie w PRL (These Are Not My Camels: About Fashion in the PRL), Wołowiec:: Czarne;.
    [Google Scholar]
  3. Dogwiałło Bogna, and Burska Agnieszka. (2010);, 'Polish urban dress in transition from socialism to post-socialism'. , in Djurja Bartless, and Pamela Smith. (eds), Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion: East Europe, Russia and the Caucasus, London:: Bloomsbury;.
    [Google Scholar]
  4. Dziki, Sylwester. (1985-86);, 'Polska prasa w latach 1944-1948' ('Polish press in 1944-1948'). , Quarterly of History of the Polish Press, 24:1, pp. 65-67.
    [Google Scholar]
  5. Fashion and Practical Life (1946);, 'Na marginesie naszej rewii mody' ('On the sidelines of our fashion show'). , Fashion and Practical Life, 6, p. 15.
    [Google Scholar]
  6. Fashion and Practical Life (1946);, 'Czytamy listy konkursowe' (We're reading contest lists'). , Fashion and Practical Life, 10, p. 21.
    [Google Scholar]
  7. Fashion and Practical Life (1946);, 'Kobiety w spodniach' ('Women wear trousers'). , Fashion and Practical Life, 4, p. 9.
    [Google Scholar]
  8. Fashion and Practical Life (1946);, 'Gdy mążie wraca...' ('When the husband still does not return...'). , Fashion and Practical Life, 20, p. 22.
    [Google Scholar]
  9. Fashion and Practical Life (1946);, 'Między nami' ('Between us'). , Fashion and Practical Life, 12, p. 21.
    [Google Scholar]
  10. Fashion and Practical Life (1946);, 'Między nami' ('Between us'). , Fashion and Practical Life, 35, p. 11.
    [Google Scholar]
  11. Fashion and Practical Life (1946);, 'Ostatnie nowości mody' ('Latest fashion news'). , Fashion and Practical Life, 5, p. 3.
    [Google Scholar]
  12. Fashion and Practical Life (1946);, 'Szyjemy same palto z koca' ('We sew a handmade overcoat from a blanket'). , Fashion and Practical Life, 13, p. 14.
    [Google Scholar]
  13. Fashion and Practical Life (1946);, 'Kostiumy spacerowe' ('Suits walking'). , Fashion and Practical Life, 5, p. 5.
    [Google Scholar]
  14. Fashion and Practical Life (1946);, 'Z przydziałowych materiałów' ('From repartition fabrics'). , Fashion and Practical Life, 11, p. 12.
    [Google Scholar]
  15. Fashion and Practical Life (1946);, 'O tym dobrze wiedzieć ' ('It's good to know'). , Fashion and Practical Life 14, p. 15; 3, p. 22; 14, p. 12.
    [Google Scholar]
  16. Fashion and Practical Life (1946);, 'Bluzeczki ze starych łaszków'('Blouses converted from old clothes'). , Fashion and Practical Life, 6, p. 22.
    [Google Scholar]
  17. Fashion and Practical Life (1946);, 'Ze starego futra' ('From our old fur'). , Fashion and Practical Life, 14, p. 12.
    [Google Scholar]
  18. Fashion and Practical Life (1946);, 'Jak dorabiać w domu?' ('How to make extra money at home?'). , Fashion and Practical Life, 12, p. 2.
    [Google Scholar]
  19. Fidelis, Małgorzata. (2006);, 'Czy nowy matriarchat? Kobiety bez mężczyzn w Polsce po II wojnie światowej' ('Is the new matriarchate? Women without men in Poland after World War II'). , in Anna Żarnowska, and Andrzej Szwarc. (eds), Kobiety i rewolucja obyczajowa. Społeczno – kulturowe aspekty seksualności. Wiek XIX i XX (Women and the Moral Revolution: Socio-Cultural Aspects of Sexuality: 19th and 20th Century), Warsaw:: DiG;.
    [Google Scholar]
  20. Hermes, Joke. (1995), Reading Women's Magazines: An Analysis of Everyday Media Use, Cambridge:: Polity;.
    [Google Scholar]
  21. Jaworska, Justyna. (2008), Cywilizacja 'Przekroju': misja obyczajowa w magazynie ilustrowanym' ('Przekroj' Civilization: The Moral Mission in an Illustrated Magazine), Warsaw:: University of Warsaw Publishing House;.
    [Google Scholar]
  22. Klich-Kluczewska, Barbara. (2011);, 'Kobiety w powojennej Polsce. Paradoksy komunistycznej rzeczywistości' ('Women in post-war Poland: Paradoxes of communist reality'). , in Anna Czocher. (ed.), Wojna to męska rzecz? Losy kobiet w okupowanym Krakowie w dwunastu odsłonach (War Is a Male Thing? The Fate of Women in Occupied Krakow in Twelve Scenes), Krakow:: Historical Museum of the City of Krakow;.
    [Google Scholar]
  23. Kłoskowska, Antonina. (1959);, 'Modele społeczne i kultura masowa' ('Social models and mass culture'). , Przegląd Socjologiczny, 13, p. 436.
    [Google Scholar]
  24. Kościel, Katarzyna, and Jaworska, Joanna. (2006), Szafa polska 1945-1989 (Polish Wardrobe 1945-1989), Poland:: Telewizja Polska – Telewizyjna Agnecja Produkcji Teatralnej i Filmowej (Polish Television – Television and Theater Production Agency);.
    [Google Scholar]
  25. Łozowska-Marcinkowska, Katarzyna. (2010), Sprawy niewieście: problematyka czasopism kobiecych Drugiej Rzeczpospolitej (Woman Matters: Issues of Women's Magazines of the Second Polish Republic), Poznań:: Wydawnictwo Poznań skie;.
    [Google Scholar]
  26. Nead, Lynda. (2018); 'Dressing for austerity: Aspiration, leisure and fashion in postwar Britain'. , Social History, 43:1, pp. 137-39.
    [Google Scholar]
  27. Pelka, Anna. (2013), Z [politycznym] fasonem. Moda młodzieżowa w PRL i NRD (With [Political] Fashion: Youth Fashion in the PRL and GDR), Gdańsk:: Słowo.Obraz.Terytoria;.
    [Google Scholar]
  28. Pobłocki, Kacper. (2010);, 'The cunning of class: Urbanization of inequality in post-war Poland'. , dissertation, Central European University.
    [Google Scholar]
  29. Różyc, Marcin. (2012);, 'Rozdział: Moda w gettcie, wywiad z Karoliną Sulej' ('Fashion in the ghetto: Interview with Karolina Sulej'). , Nowa moda polska (New Polish Fashion), Warsaw:: 40000Malarzy;, pp. 276-87.
    [Google Scholar]
  30. Skrzypek, Józef. (1964);, 'Etapy rozwojowe prasy w Polsce Ludowej' ('Stages of press development in People's Poland'). , Media Research Issues, 3:21, p. 66-67.
    [Google Scholar]
  31. Słomkowska, Alina. (1980), Prasa w PRL. Szkice historyczne (Press in the PRL: Historical Sketches), Warsaw:: Pań stwowe Wydawnictwo Naukowe;.
    [Google Scholar]
  32. Sokół, Zofia. (1998), Prasa kobieca w latach 1945-1995 (Women's Press in 1945-1995), Rzeszów:: Wydawnictwo Wyższej Szkoły Pedagogicznej;.
    [Google Scholar]
  33. Sokół, Zofia. (2000);, 'Wzór osobowy kobiety i model rodziny propagowany na łamach prasy kobiecej w latach 1945-1990' ('Female model and family model propagated in the women's press in 1945-1990'). , in Weronika Chań ska, and Danuta Ulicka. (eds), Polskie oblicza feminizmu (Polish Faces of Feminism), Warsaw:: Wydział Polonistyki Uniwersytetu;, pp. 66-85.
    [Google Scholar]
  34. Sokół, Zofia. (2012);, 'Wizerunki kobiet na łamach tygodnika Kobieta i Życie w latach 1946-2002' ('Images of women in the pages of the weekly Woman and Life in the years 1946-2002'). , Rocznik Prasoznawczy, 6, pp. 11-36.
    [Google Scholar]
  35. Szerle, Weronika. (2019-20);, Polish Design, Polish Designers. , fashion exhibition, City Gdynia Museum, Gydnia, Poland.
    [Google Scholar]
  36. Sztokfisz, Marta. (2015), Caryca polskiej mody, świąci i grzesznicy (Empress of Polish Fashion, Saints and Sinners), Warsaw:: WAB;.
    [Google Scholar]
  37. Szydłowska, Agata. (2019), Paryż domowym sposobem. O kreowaniu stylu życia w czasopismach PRL ('Paris homemade: On creating a lifestyle in PRL journals'), Warszawa:: Wielka Litera;.
    [Google Scholar]
  38. Ś wida-Ziemba, Hanna. (2003), Urwany lot. Pokolenie inteligenckiej młodzieży w świetle listów i pamiętników z lat 1945-1948 (A Broken Flight: Generation of Intellectual Youth in the Light of Letters and Diaries from 1945-1948), Kraków:: Wydawnictwo Literackie;.
    [Google Scholar]
  39. Woysznic-Terlikowska, Grażyna. (1946), 'O polskiej modzie' ('About Warsaw fashion'), Stolica, 1, p. 2.
    [Google Scholar]
  40. Zborowska, Agata. (2017);, 'Bazaars and found objects: Thing culture in postwar Poland'. , Fashion Theory: The Journal of Dress, Body & Culture, 21:4, https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/1362704X.2016.1265317. Accessed 20 April 2018 .
    [Google Scholar]
  41. Idem, Magdalena. (2019);, 'Post-war fashion tips in the popular fashion press in Poland: A source of psychological support in the "struggle for femininity"'. , Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty, 10:2, pp. 221-43, doi: https://doi.org/10.1386/csfb_00003_1
    [Google Scholar]
/content/journals/10.1386/csfb_00003_1
Loading
/content/journals/10.1386/csfb_00003_1
Loading

Data & Media loading...

This is a required field
Please enter a valid email address
Approval was a success
Invalid data
An error occurred
Approval was partially successful, following selected items could not be processed due to error
Please enter a valid_number test