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Transformation in homespun: Power and creativity in early nineteenth-century Hawaiian cloth manufacturing
- Source: Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty, Volume 12, Issue Fashioning Culture: Transforming Perspectives from Oceania, Jun 2021, p. 49 - 66
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- 22 Jul 2020
- 17 Sep 2020
- 01 Jun 2021
Abstract
Between 1837 and 1840, governor and chief John Adams Kuakini engaged in cotton farming and cloth production, the first Hawaiian to ever do so. His success in running a cloth-making operation was not done alone, however, but with the guidance from New England Congregationalist missionaries who introduced homespun to Kuakini and hired foreigners and makaʻāinana men and women labourers. This article explores Kuakini’s motivations for investing in cloth-making through the lens of his chiefly power, with special attention to the ways in which Kuakini asserted dominance over those who challenged him and those he believed were subservient to him. I examine Kuakini’s motivations and foray into cloth-making, which differed greatly from Congregational Christian ideas about cloth-making, further demonstrating how Kuakini’s power in the early Hawaiian Kingdom extended over both native and foreign bodies.