Fashioning simultaneous migrations: Sonia Delaunay and inter-war Romanian connections | Intellect Skip to content
1981
Volume 13, Issue 2
  • ISSN: 2040-4417
  • E-ISSN: 2040-4425

Abstract

This article analyses the connections between the worlds of fine art and fashion through the complex interconnections between the Parisian-Eastern European creative exile. It follows the common threads between Ukrainian-Jewish artist and fashion designer Sonia Delaunay (1885–1979) and prominent inter-war Parisian Romanians: namely, Tristan Tzara, Constantin Brâncuși and Lizica Codreanu. I suggest the concept of ‘simultaneous migrations’ to illustrate fashion’s mobility beyond and across cultural differences, identities and aesthetics through Sonia Delaunay’s philosophy of Simultaneity, focusing on her inter-war Romanian connections in Paris. The research bridges across the fields of fashion studies, art history and cultural studies, in order to explicate the synapses that shed light on Sonia Delaunay’s ideas of Simultaneity and colour theories to Paris as an ideological, cultural, artistic and identity hub.

Funding
This study was supported by the:
  • Executive Agency for Higher Education, Research, Development and Innovation Funding-UEFISCDI
  • National Research Council – CNCS
  • Ministry of National Education (Romania) (Award PN-III-P4-PCE-2021-0688)
Loading

Article metrics loading...

/content/journals/10.1386/csfb_00047_1
2022-12-19
2024-04-25
Loading full text...

Full text loading...

References

  1. Anon. ( 1927;), ‘ Lisica Codreano. ’, Vogue, 8:1, 1 January, p. 33.
    [Google Scholar]
  2. Anon. ( 1928;), ‘ Arhitectura nouă. ’, Contimporanul, VII:77, March, p. 14.
    [Google Scholar]
  3. Anon. ( 1938;), ‘ Hatha-yoga et beauté. ’, Vogue, 18:1, 1 January, pp. 4243, 62.
    [Google Scholar]
  4. Anon. ( 2021;), ‘ Lizica Codreanu: A reconstruction, on Constantin Brâncuși National Day. ’, The National Center for Dance Bucharest, 4 May, https://cndb.ro/en/events/lizica-codreanu-a-reconstruction-on-constantin-brancusi-national-day/. Accessed 4 May 2021.
    [Google Scholar]
  5. Balas, Edith. ( 1975;), ‘ The sculpture of Brancusi in the light of his Rumanian heritage. ’, Art Journal, 35:2, p. 94.
    [Google Scholar]
  6. Bargues, Cécile. ( 2014;), ‘ Sonia Delaunay, Tristan Tzara, Iliazd and others. ’, in A. Montfort, and C. Godefroy. (eds), Sonia Delaunay, London:: Tate Publishing;, pp. 11223.
    [Google Scholar]
  7. Baron, Stanley, and Damase, Jacques. ( 1995), Sonia Delaunay: The Life of an Artist, London:: Thames & Hudson;.
    [Google Scholar]
  8. Bartlett, Djurdja. ( 2010), FashionEast: The Spectre that Haunted Socialism, Cambridge:: MIT Press;.
    [Google Scholar]
  9. Bartlett, Djurdja. ( 2019;), ‘ Can fashion be defended?. ’, in D. Bartlett. (ed.), Fashion and Politics, New Haven, CT and London:: Yale University Press;, pp. 1657.
    [Google Scholar]
  10. Borrelli-Persson, Laird. ( 2022;), ‘ 100 years on, designers are still learning from Sonia Delaunay’s optimistic use of color. ’, Vogue, 13 April, https://www.vogue.com/article/100-years-on-designers-are-still-learning-from-sonia-delaunays-optimistic-use-of-color. Accessed 29 May 2022.
    [Google Scholar]
  11. Buckberrough, Sherry. ( 1995;), ‘ Delaunay design: Aesthetics, immigration, and the new woman. ’, Art Journal, 54:1, pp. 51–55.
    [Google Scholar]
  12. Chiriac, Alexandra. ( 2022), Performing Modernism: A Jewish Avant-Garde in Bucharest, Berlin and Boston, MA:: De Gruyter;.
    [Google Scholar]
  13. Crevel, René. ( 1925;), ‘ La mode moderne: Visite à Sonia Delaunay. ’, Integral: Revistă de sinteză modernă, 6&7, October, pp. 18–19.
    [Google Scholar]
  14. Damase, Jacques. ( 1972), Sonia Delaunay: Rhythms and Colours, London:: Thames & Hudson;.
    [Google Scholar]
  15. Düchting, Hajo. ( 1994), Robert and Sonia Delaunay: The Triumph of Color, Cologne:: Benedikt Taschen;.
    [Google Scholar]
  16. Fondane, Benjamin. ( 1927;), ‘ À Madame Sonia Delaunay. ’, Integral: Revistă de sinteză modernă, 13&14, July, p. 10.
    [Google Scholar]
  17. García, Luz Neira. ( 2018;), ‘ The centre of the periphery in fashion studies: First questions. ’, International Journal of Fashion Studies, 5:1, pp. 95110.
    [Google Scholar]
  18. Hollander, Anne. ( 1993), Seeing through Clothes, Berkeley, CA, Los Angeles, CA and London:: University of California Press;.
    [Google Scholar]
  19. Hoog, Michel. ( 1972;), ‘ Preface. ’, in J. Damase. (ed.), Sonia Delaunay: Rhythms and Colours, London:: Thames & Hudson;, pp. 1124.
    [Google Scholar]
  20. Kurkdjian, Sophie. ( 2020;), ‘ Paris as the capital of fashion, 1858–1939: An inquiry. ’, Fashion Theory, 24:3, pp. 37191.
    [Google Scholar]
  21. Lehmann, Ulrich. ( 2015;), ‘ Introduction to “Dress Poems”. ’, Art in Translation, 7:2, pp. 30408.
    [Google Scholar]
  22. Lemny, Doina. ( 2012), Lizica Codreanu, o dansatoare româncă în avangardă pariziană, Bucharest:: Vellant;.
    [Google Scholar]
  23. Levin, Gail. ( 2016;), ‘ Threading Jewish identity: The Sara Stern in Sonia Delaunay. ’, Journal of Modern Jewish Studies, 15:1, pp. 88108.
    [Google Scholar]
  24. Luft, Eric v. d.. ( 2008;), ‘ Introduction. ’, in E. v. d. Luft. (ed.), Gas Heart: The Dada Anti-Masterpiece of Drama, North Syracuse:: Gegensatz Press;, pp. 732.
    [Google Scholar]
  25. Lüthi, Barbara. ( 2018;), ‘ Migration and migration history (Version 2.0). ’, Docupedia-Zeitgeschichte, https://doi.org/10.14765/zzf.dok.2.1178.v2. Accessed 19 July 2018.
    [Google Scholar]
  26. M. I. ( 1927;), ‘ La Robert Delaunay. ’, Contimporanul, VI:73, February, p. 9.
    [Google Scholar]
  27. Mackin, Jeanne. ( 2019), The Last Collection, New York:: Berkley;.
    [Google Scholar]
  28. Madsen, Axel. ( 2015), Sonia Delaunay: Artist of the Lost Generation, New York:: Open Road Media;.
    [Google Scholar]
  29. Manea, Ion. (ed.) ( 1992;), ‘ Brâncuși, Constantin. ’, Români în știința și cultura occidentală, Davis, CA:: ARA Publications;.
    [Google Scholar]
  30. McQuaid, Matilda, and Brown, Susan Jean. (eds) ( 2011), Color Moves: Art and Fashion by Sonia Delaunay, London:: Thames & Hudson;.
    [Google Scholar]
  31. McQuaid, Matilda. ( 2011;), ‘ Introduction. ’, in M. McQuaid, and S. J. Brown. (eds), Color Moves: Art and Fashion by Sonia Delaunay, London:: Thames & Hudson;, pp. 79.
    [Google Scholar]
  32. Miholca, Amelia. ( 2021;), ‘ Beyond Tzara: Dada, constructivism, and cubism in the Romanian avant-garde magazines. ’, Ph.D. thesis, Tempe AZ:: Arizona State University, https://keep.lib.asu.edu/items/161627. Accessed 27 May 2022.
    [Google Scholar]
  33. Miller, Sanda. ( 2010), Constantin Brancusi, London:: Reaktion Books;.
    [Google Scholar]
  34. Moggridge, Bill, and Baumann, Caroline. ( 2011;), ‘ Foreword. ’, in M. McQuaid, and S. J. Brown. (eds), Color Moves: Art and Fashion by Sonia Delaunay, London:: Thames & Hudson;, pp. 79.
    [Google Scholar]
  35. Morano, Elizabeth. ( 1994;), ‘ Introduction. ’, in E. Morano. (ed.), Sonia Delaunay: Art into Fashion, New York:: George Braziller;, pp. 1124.
    [Google Scholar]
  36. Moyse Ferreira, Lucy. ( 2022;), ‘ Violence and fragmentation in interwar fashion and femininity. ’, in E. Paulicelli,, V. Manlow, and E. Wissinger. (eds), The Routledge Companion to Fashion Studies, London and New York:: Routledge;, pp. 20111.
    [Google Scholar]
  37. Pătrașcu, Milița. ( 1928;), ‘ Sonia Delaunay. ’, Contimporanul, VII:77, March, p. 14.
    [Google Scholar]
  38. de Perthuis, Karen, and Findlay, Rosie. ( 2019;), ‘ How fashion travels: The fashionable ideal in the age of Instagram. ’, Fashion Theory, 23:2, pp. 21942.
    [Google Scholar]
  39. Rendell, Clare. ( 1983;), ‘ Sonia Delaunay and the expanding definition of art. ’, Woman’s Art Journal, 4:1, pp. 3538.
    [Google Scholar]
  40. Rocamora, Agnès. ( 2006;), ‘ Paris, capitale de la mode: Representing the fashion city in the media. ’, in C. Breward, and D. Gilbert. (eds), Fashion’s World Cities, Oxford and New York:: Berg;, pp. 4354.
    [Google Scholar]
  41. Roll, Stephan. ( 1928;), ‘ Colomba – Ilarie Voronca, două portrete de R. Delaunay, coperta de Sonia Delaunay, 1927. ’, Integral – Revistă de sinteză modernă, 15, April, pp. 1516.
    [Google Scholar]
  42. Slevin, Tom. ( 2013;), ‘ Sonia Delaunay’s robe simultanée: Modernity, fashion, and transmediality. ’, Fashion Theory: The Journal of Dress, Body & Culture, 17:1, pp. 2754.
    [Google Scholar]
  43. Smith, Roberta. ( 2011;), ‘ Swatches illuminate a painter’s other art. ’, New York Times, 17 March, https://www.nytimes.com/2011/03/18/arts/design/sonia-delaunay-show-at-cooper-hewitt-review.html. Accessed 29 May 2011.
    [Google Scholar]
  44. Steele, Valerie. ( 2017), Paris Fashion: A Cultural History, , 2nd ed.., Oxford and New York:: Berg;.
    [Google Scholar]
  45. Steele, Valerie. ( 2019;), ‘ Paris, capital of fashion. ’, in V. Steele. (ed.), Paris, Capital of Fashion, London and New York:: Bloomsbury Visual Arts;, pp. 1049.
    [Google Scholar]
  46. Timmer, Petra. ( 2011;), ‘ Sonia Delaunay: Fashion and fabric designer. ’, in M. McQuaid, and S. J. Brown. (eds), Color Moves: Art and Fashion by Sonia Delaunay, London:: Thames & Hudson;, pp. 2251.
    [Google Scholar]
  47. Vaccari, Alessandra. ( 2021;), ‘ The simultaneous dress of Sonia Delaunay, fashion, and the tangibility of the tango. ’, Elephant&Castle, 26, pp. 325.
    [Google Scholar]
  48. Voronca, Ilarie. ( 1925;), ‘ Simultaneismul în artă. ’, Integral: Revistă de sinteză modernă, 6&7, October, pp. 23.
    [Google Scholar]
  49. Vreeland, Diana. ( 1994;), ‘ Foreword. ’, in E. Morano. (ed.), Sonia Delaunay: Art into Fashion, New York:: George Braziller;, pp. 79.
    [Google Scholar]
  50. Andraş, Sonia. ( 2022;), ‘ Fashioning simultaneous migrations: Sonia Delaunay and interwar Romanian connections. ’, Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty, 13:2, pp. 22953, https://doi.org/10.1386/csfb_00047_1
    [Google Scholar]
http://instance.metastore.ingenta.com/content/journals/10.1386/csfb_00047_1
Loading
/content/journals/10.1386/csfb_00047_1
Loading

Data & Media loading...

This is a required field
Please enter a valid email address
Approval was a success
Invalid data
An error occurred
Approval was partially successful, following selected items could not be processed due to error