Practices of resistance: The Antwerp fashion scene and Walter Van Beirendonck’s subversion of masculinity

References

1. Barry, B.. ( 2015;), ‘ The toxic lining of men’s fashion consumption: The omnipresent force of hegemonic masculinity. ’, Critical Studies in Men’s Fashion, 2:2&3, pp. 143–61.
   [Google Scholar]
2. Barry, B.. ( 2016;), ‘ Destabilizing the gaze towards male fashion models: Expanding men’s gender and sexuality identities. ’, Critical Studies in Men’s Fashion, 3:1, pp. 17–35.
   [Google Scholar]
3. Barry, B.. ( 2019;), ‘ Fabulous masculinities: Refashioning the fat and disabled body. ’, Fashion Theory, 23:2, pp. 275–307.
   [Google Scholar]
4. Bartlett, D.. (ed.) ( 2019), Fashion and Politics, London:: Yale University Press;.
   [Google Scholar]
5. Baudrillard, J.. ( 1993), Symbolic Exchange and Death, London:: SAGE;.
   [Google Scholar]
6. Benjamin, W.. ( 1973), Charles Baudelaire: A Lyric Poet in the Era of High Capitalism, London:: New Left Books.;
   [Google Scholar]
7. Blanks, T.. ( 2013;), ‘ Walter and the 33 bears. ’, in W. Van Beirendonck,, G. Bruloot, and K. Debo. (eds), Dream the World Awake, Tielt:: Lannoo;, pp. 87–97.
   [Google Scholar]
8. Bolton, A.. ( 2003), Bravehearts: Men in Skirts, London:: V&A Publishing;.
   [Google Scholar]
9. Bosschaert, J.,, Legendre, M., and Van Beirednonck, W.. ( 1989a;), ‘ King Kong. ’, i-D: The Power Issue, 68, April, n.pag.
   [Google Scholar]
10. Bosschaert, J.,, Legendre, M., and Van Beirednonck, W.. ( 1989b), Walter: King Kong Kooks, Gent:: Dedalus;.
    [Google Scholar]
11. Breward, C.. ( 1995), The Culture of Fashion: A New History of Fashionable Dress, Manchester:: Manchester University Press;.
    [Google Scholar]
12. Breward, C.. ( 1999), The Hidden Consumer: Masculinities, Fashion and City Life 1860–1914, Manchester:: Manchester University Press;.
    [Google Scholar]
13. Cole, S.. ( 2000), Don We Now Our Gay Apparel: Gay Men’s Dress in the Twentieth Century, London:: Berg;.
    [Google Scholar]
14. Collin, M.. ( 1989;), ‘ King Kong Kooks. ’, i-D: The Loud Issue, August, pp. 33–35.
    [Google Scholar]
15. Connell, R. W.. ( 2005), Masculinities, , 2nd ed.., Cambridge:: Polity Press;.
    [Google Scholar]
16. Connell, R. W., and Wood, J.. ( 2005;), ‘ Globalization and business masculinities. ’, Men and Masculinities, 7:4, pp. 347–64.
    [Google Scholar]
17. Davies, H.. ( 2008), Modern Menswear, London:: Laurence King;.
    [Google Scholar]
18. Debo, K.. ( 2007;), ‘ The Antwerp Fashion Academy. ’, in G. Bruloot, and K. Debo. (eds), 6+ Antwerp Fashion, Ghent:: Ludion;, pp. 34–43.
    [Google Scholar]
19. Debo, K.. ( 2017;), ‘ Make-up as a mask. ’, in W. Van Beirendonck, and K. Debo. (eds), Powermask: The Power of the Mask, Ghent:: Lannoo;, pp. 182–99.
    [Google Scholar]
20. Derycke, L., and Van De Veire, S.. ( 1999), Belgian Fashion Design, Ghent:: Ludion;.
    [Google Scholar]
21. Edwards, T.. ( 1997), Men in the Mirror: Men’s Fashion, Masculinity and Consumer Society, London:: Cassell;.
    [Google Scholar]
22. Entwistle, J.. ( 2000a), The Fashioned Body: Fashion, Dress and Modern Social Theory, Cambridge:: Polity;.
    [Google Scholar]
23. Entwistle, J.. ( 2000b;), ‘ Fashion and the fleshy body: Dress as embodied practice. ’, Fashion Theory, 4:3, pp. 323–48.
    [Google Scholar]
24. Finkelstein, J.. ( 1991), The Fashioned Self, Somerset:: Temple University Press;.
    [Google Scholar]
25. Flügel, J. C.. ( 1969), The Psychology of Clothes, New York:: International University Press.;
    [Google Scholar]
26. Foucault, M.. ( 1990), The History of Sexuality. Volume 1, New York:: Vintage Books;.
    [Google Scholar]
27. Foucault, M.. ( 1991), Discipline and Punish: The Birth of the Prison, London:: Penguin;.
    [Google Scholar]
28. Gaugele, E., and Titton, M.. (eds) ( 2019), Fashion and Postcolonial Critique, Vienna:: Sternberg Press;.
    [Google Scholar]
29. Geczy, A., and Karaminas, V.. ( 2013), Queer Style, London:: Bloomsbury;.
    [Google Scholar]
30. Geczy, A., and Karaminas, V.. ( 2017), Critical Fashion Practice: From Westwood to Van Beirendonck, London:: Bloomsbury;.
    [Google Scholar]
31. Goyvaerts, A.. ( 2009), Walter Van Beirendonck: De Controversieelste van de Antwerpse modeontwerpers, Antwerp:: Houtekiet;.
    [Google Scholar]
32. Grauman, B.. ( 1987;), ‘ Fashion from Antwerp, the weird and the wonderful. ’, The Bulletin, April, pp. 21–25.
    [Google Scholar]
33. Heynssens, S.. ( 2013;), ‘ Between avant-garde & tradition. ’, in K. Van Godtsenhoven, and K. Debo. (eds), Fashion Antwerp Academy 50, Tielt:: Lannoo;, pp. 13–28.
    [Google Scholar]
34. Horyn, C.. ( 2007;), ‘ Identity in Antwerp Fashion: This is how it really is. ’, in G. Bruloot, and K. Debo. (eds), 6+ Antwerp Fashion, Ghent:: Ludion;, pp. 112–23.
    [Google Scholar]
35. Kaiser, S. B.,, Nagasawa, R. H., and Hutton, S. S.. ( 1991;), ‘ Fashion, postmodernity and personal appearance: A symbolic interactionist formulation. ’, Symbolic Interaction, 14:2, pp. 165–85.
    [Google Scholar]
36. Kawamura, Y.. ( 2004), The Japanese Revolution in Paris Fashion, London:: Berg;.
    [Google Scholar]
37. Kemps, L.. ( 1993;), ‘ Dertig jaar Akademie. ’, Weekend Knack, 12 May, n.pag.
    [Google Scholar]
38. Kuchta, D.. ( 2002), The Three-Piece Suit and Modern Masculinity: England, 1550-1850, London:: University of California Press;.
    [Google Scholar]
39. Lauf, C.. ( 2013;), ‘ While Walter rafting. ’, in W. Van Beirendonck,, G. Bruloot, and K. Debo. (eds), Dream the World Awake, Tielt:: Lannoo;, pp. 69–76.
    [Google Scholar]
40. Lipovetsky, G.. ( 2002), The Empire of Fashion: Dressing Modern Democracy, Princeton:: Princeton University Press;.
    [Google Scholar]
41. Lobrano, A.. ( 1987;), ‘ Antwerp’s fashion facets. ’, DNR: The Magazine, December, pp. 23–29.
    [Google Scholar]
42. Mantegazza, P.. ( 1890), Physiognomy and Expression, London:: W. Scott Publishing;.
    [Google Scholar]
43. Martin, R.. ( 2008;), ‘ Post-modern menswear: Irony and anomaly in men’s attire of the 1980s. ’, in A. Reilly, and S. Cosbey. (eds), Men’s Fashion Reader, New York:: Fairchild Books;, pp. 101–07.
    [Google Scholar]
44. Martinez, J. G.. ( 2007;), ‘ Selling avant-garde: How Antwerp became a fashion capital (1990–2002). ’, Urban Studies, 44:12, November, pp. 2449–64.
    [Google Scholar]
45. McCauley Bowstead, J.. ( 2018), Menswear Revolution: The Transformation of Contemporary Men’s Fashion, London:: Bloomsbury;.
    [Google Scholar]
46. Moore, M.. ( 2019), Fabulous: The Rise of the Beautiful Eccentric, New York:: Yale University Press;.
    [Google Scholar]
47. Morgado, M. A.. ( 1996;), ‘ Coming to terms with postmodern: Theories and concepts of contemporary culture and their implications for apparel scholars. ’, Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 14:41, pp. 41–53.
    [Google Scholar]
48. Mosse, G. L.. ( 1985), Nationalism and Sexuality: Middle-Class Morality and Sexual Norms in Modern Europe, London:: The University of Wisconsin Press;.
    [Google Scholar]
49. Mosse, G. L.. ( 1996), The Image of Man: The Creation of Modern Masculinity, Oxford:: Oxford University Press;.
    [Google Scholar]
50. Renaux, P.. ( 1986;), ‘ Walter Van Beirendonck: Ou la nouvelle “Prof-Génération”. ’, Regards, April, n.pag.
    [Google Scholar]
51. Rocamora, A.. ( 2016;), ‘ Pierre Bourdieu: The field of fashion. ’, in A. Rocamora, and A. Smelik. (eds), Thinking through Fashion: A Guide to Key Theorist, London:: I.B. Tauris;, pp. 233–50.
    [Google Scholar]
52. Steele, V.. ( 2012), A Queer History of Fashion: From the Closet to the Catwalk, New York:: Yale University Press.;
    [Google Scholar]
53. Steele, V.. ( 2013;), ‘ Fashion prescribes the ritual. ’, in W. Van Beirendonck,, G. Bruloot, and K. Debo. (eds), Dream the World Awake, Tielt:: Lannoo;, pp. 135–43.
    [Google Scholar]
54. Teunissen, J.. ( 2011;), ‘ Deconstructing Belgian and Dutch fashion dreams: From global trends to local crafts. ’, Fashion Theory, 15:2, pp. 157–76.
    [Google Scholar]
55. Tseëlon, E.. ( 2016;), ‘ Jean Baudrillard: Post-modern fashion as the end of meaning. ’, in A. Rocamora, and A. Smelik. (eds), Thinking through Fashion: A Guide to Key Theorists, London:: I.B. Tauris;, pp. 215–32.
    [Google Scholar]
56. Tynan, J.. ( 2016;), ‘ Michel Foucault: Fashioning the body politic. ’, in A. Rocamora, and A. Smelik. (eds), Thinking through Fashion: A Guide to Key Theorists, London:: I.B. Tauris;, pp. 184–99.
    [Google Scholar]
57. Webb, R. I.. ( 1986), Blitz, August, p. 5.
    [Google Scholar]
58. Wilson, E.. ( 1985), Adorned in Dreams: Fashion and Modernity, London:: Virago Press;.
    [Google Scholar]
59. Wilson, E.. ( 1992;), ‘ Fashion and the postmodern body. ’, in J. Ash, and E. Wilson. (eds), Chic Thrills: A Fashion Reader, London:: Pandora;, pp. 3–16.
    [Google Scholar]
60. Windels, V.. ( 2004;), ‘ Hoe werkt het Flanders Fashion Institute? Een ambassade voor de mode. ’, De Standaard, 11 December, n.pag.
    [Google Scholar]
61. Brajato, Nicola, and Dhoest, Alexander. ( 2020;), ‘ Practices of resistance: The Antwerp fashion scene and Walter Van Beirendonck’s subversion of masculinity. ’, Critical Studies in Men’s Fashion, 7:1&2, pp. 51–72, doi: https://doi.org/10.1386/csmf_00017_1
    [Google Scholar]