Uniform-undone: A study in the repurposing of military attire through history and in experimental practice

References

1. Bach, Damon R. (2020), The American Counterculture: A History of Hippies and Cultural Dissidents, Lawrence, KS: University Press of Kansas.
   [Google Scholar]
2. Barker, Tom (2023), ‘From world wars to notorious subcultures: Charting the MA-1’s history’, Highsnobiety, https://www.highsnobiety.com/p/bomber-jacket-history-guide/. Accessed 7 June 2023.
   [Google Scholar]
3. Barthorp, Michael (1978), ‘Britain’s colonial wars in the nineteenth century’, in I. T. Schick (ed.), Battledress: The Uniforms of the World’s Great Armies 1700 to the Present, London: Weidenfeld and Nicolson, pp. 137–56.
   [Google Scholar]
4. Basar, Shumon, Coupland, Douglas and Obrist, Hans Ulrich (2021), The Extreme Self, Cologne: Verlag der Buchhandlung Walther und Franz König.
   [Google Scholar]
5. Binotto, Carla and Payne, Alice (2016), ‘The poetics of waste: Contemporary fashion practice in the context of wastefulness’, Fashion Practice, 9:1, pp. 5–29.
   [Google Scholar]
6. Blechman, Hardy (2004), Disruptive Pattern Material: An Encyclopaedia of Camouflage, Richmond Hill: Firefly Books.
   [Google Scholar]
7. Bonami, Franceso, Frisa, Maria Luisa, and Tonchi, Stefano (2000), Uniform: Order and Disorder, Milano: Charta.
   [Google Scholar]
8. Borgdorff, Henk (2011), ‘The production of knowledge in artistic research’, in M. Biggs and H. Karlsson (eds), The Routledge Companion to Research in the Arts, Oxford: Routledge, pp. 45–63.
   [Google Scholar]
9. Brault, Pascale-Anne (2004), ‘Claire Denis et le corps à corps masculin dans “Beau Travail”’, The French Review, 78:2, pp. 288–99.
   [Google Scholar]
10. Butler, Judith (1988), ‘Performative acts and gender constitution: An essay in phenomenology and feminist theory’, Theatre Journal, 40:4, pp. 519–31.
    [Google Scholar]
11. Candy, Linda and Edmonds, Ernest (2018), ‘Practice-based research in the creative arts: Foundations and futures from the front line’, Leonardo, 51:1, pp. 63–69.
    [Google Scholar]
12. Coen, Ethan and Coen, Joel (1998), The Big Lebowski, UK and USA: Working Titles Films.
    [Google Scholar]
13. Davis, Brian Leigh (1980), German Uniforms of the Third Reich 1933–1945, Poole: Blandford Press.
    [Google Scholar]
14. Delvaux, Martine (2019), Le Boys Club, Montreal: Les éditions du remue-ménage.
    [Google Scholar]
15. Denis, Claire (1999), Beau Travail, France: La Sept-Arte, Pathé Télévision, S. M. Films and Tanaïs Productions.
    [Google Scholar]
16. Evans, Jonathan (2016), ‘How a bomber jacket renaissance: And Kanye West: Gave a classic American brand a major boost’, Esquire Magazine, 23 February, https://www.esquire.com/style/a42369/alpha-industries-profits-up-30-percent-kanye-west/. Accessed 27 May 2023.
    [Google Scholar]
17. Falasca-Zamponi, Simonetta (1997), Fascist Spectacle: The Aesthetics of Power in Mussolini’s Italy, Berkeley, CA, Los Angeles, CA and London: University of California Press.
    [Google Scholar]
18. Foreman, Katy (2016), ‘The ultimate symbol of French cool’, BBC Culture, 9 March, https://www.bbc.com/culture/article/20160309-the-ultimate-symbol-of-french-cool. Accessed 2 June 2023.
    [Google Scholar]
19. Garfinkle, Adam (1995), Telltale Hearts: The Origins of and Impact of the Vietnam Antiwar Movement, New York: St. Martin’s Press.
    [Google Scholar]
20. Grosz, Elizabeth (1994), Volatile Bodies: Toward a Corporeal Feminism, Bloomington, IN: Indiana University Press.
    [Google Scholar]
21. Gunn, Douglas and Luckett, Roy (2015), The Vintage Showroom: An Archive of Menswear, London: Laurence King Publishing Ltd.
    [Google Scholar]
22. Hagopian, Patrick (2009), The Vietnam War in American Memory, Amherst, MA: University of Massachusetts Press.
    [Google Scholar]
23. Hall, Jake (2020), ‘Maharishi celebrates Warhol’s preoccupation with death’, Hero Magazine, 20 March, https://hero-magazine.com/article/169082/maharishi-warhol. Accessed 17 May 2023.
    [Google Scholar]
24. Hartcup, Guy (1979), Camouflage: A History of Concealment and Deception in War, Newton Abbot: David & Charles.
    [Google Scholar]
25. Hevia, James Louis (2012), The Imperial Security State British Colonial Knowledge and Empire-Building in Asia, Cambridge and New York: Cambridge University Press.
    [Google Scholar]
26. High-Stainton, Rosie (2016), ‘Tracing the MA-1 through fashion and subculture’, Dazed Digital, 17 November, https://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/33752/1/alpha-industries-ma-1-bomber-fashion-subculture-raf-simons-vetements-skinheads. Accessed 21 May 2023.
    [Google Scholar]
27. Hoberman, John (1999), ‘Primacy of performance: Superman not superathlete’, in J. A. Mangan (ed.), Shaping the Superman: Fascist Body as Political Icon: Aryan Fascism, London: Frank Cass Publishers, pp. 69–85.
    [Google Scholar]
28. Hunt, Andrew E. (1999), The Turning: A History of Vietnam Veterans against the War, New York: University Press.
    [Google Scholar]
29. Knötel, Richard, Knötel, Herbert and Sieg, Hebert (1980), Uniforms of the World: A Compendium of Army, Navy, and Air Force Uniforms, 1700–1937, New York: Scribner’s.
    [Google Scholar]
30. Krüger, Arnd (1999), ‘Breeding, rearing and preparing the Aryan body: Creating supermen the Nazi way’, in J. A. Mangan (ed.), Shaping the Superman: Fascist Body as Political Icon: Aryan Fascism, London: FranK Cass Publishers, pp. 42–68.
    [Google Scholar]
31. Langkjær, Michael A. (2010), ‘Then how can you explain Sgt: Pompous and the fancy pants club band? Utilization of military uniforms and other paraphernalia by pop groups and the youth counterculture in the 1960s and subsequent periods’, Textile History, 41:1, pp. 182–213.
    [Google Scholar]
32. Linda, Rodriguez Mcrobbie (2015), ‘The classy rise of the trench coat’, Smithsonian Magazine, 27 May, https://www.smithsonianmag.com/history/trench-coat-made-its-mark-world-war-i-180955397/. Accessed 1 June 2023.
    [Google Scholar]
33. Lumsden, Robin (1995), SS Regalia, Edison, NJ: Chartwell Books.
    [Google Scholar]
34. Mäkelä, Maarit (2007), ‘Knowing through making: The role of the artefact in practice-led research’, Knowledge in Society, 20:3, pp. 157–63.
    [Google Scholar]
35. Martin, Danielle and Hoftijzer, J. W. (2017), ‘Implementing a “DIY” product design methodology in fashion design’, World Design Summit 2017, Montreal, 16–25 October.
    [Google Scholar]
36. McQuillan, Holly and Rissanen, Timo (2016), Zero Waste Fashion Design, London: Bloomsbury.
    [Google Scholar]
37. Mida, Ingrid E. and Kim, Alexandra (2015), The Dress Detective: A Practical Guide to Object-Based Research in Fashion, London and New York: Bloomsbury.
    [Google Scholar]
38. Misslin, Floriane (2021), ‘A fashion degree in humanswear?’, Futuress, 31 March, https://futuress.org/magazine/a-fashion-degree-in-humanswear. Accessed 28 May 2023.
    [Google Scholar]
39. Mollo, John (1972), Military Fashion: A Comparative History of the Uniforms of the Great Armies from the 17th Century to the First World War, New York: G. P. Putnam’s Sons.
    [Google Scholar]
40. Newark, Timothy (1998), Brassey’s Book of Uniforms, Herndon, VA: Brassey’s.
    [Google Scholar]
41. Newark, Timothy (2007), Camouflage, London: Thames & Hudson.
    [Google Scholar]
42. O’Flaherty, Mark C. (2022), ‘The MA-1: A flyaway success story’, Financial Times, 13 September, https://www.ft.com/content/53b8c35e-28d9-4b84-832f-5b6e216a81e9. Accessed 12 June 2023.
    [Google Scholar]
43. Patterson, Troy (2015), ‘How the army jacket became a staple of civilian garb’, New York Times, 5 March, https://www.nytimes.com/2015/03/08/magazine/how-the-army-jacket-became-a-staple-of-civilian-garb.html. Accessed 12 June 2023.
    [Google Scholar]
44. Payne, Alice (2017), ‘Fashion futuring in the Anthropocene: Sustainable fashion as “taming” and “rewilding”’, Fashion Theory, 23:1, pp. 5–23.
    [Google Scholar]
45. Peoples, Sharon (2013), ‘Embodying the military: Uniforms’, Critical Studies in Men’s Fashion, 1:1, pp. 7–21.
    [Google Scholar]
46. Pierson, Christopher (1996), The Modern State, London and New York: Routledge.
    [Google Scholar]
47. Puett, J. Morgan and Kerr, Iain (2007), ‘That word which means smuggling across borders, incorporated: The multiplied suit’, in J. Livingstone and J. Ploof (eds), The Object of Labor: Art, Cloth, and Cultural Production, Chicago, IL and Cambridge, MA: School of the Art Institute of Chicago Press and MIT Press.
    [Google Scholar]
48. Ræbild, Ulla and Bang, Anne Louise (2017), ‘Rethinking the fashion collection as a design strategic tool in a circular economy’, The Design Journal, 20:1, pp. S589–99.
    [Google Scholar]
49. Rosignoli, Guido (1978), ‘The first world war and the restless peace 1914-39’, in I. T. Schick (ed.), Battledress: The Uniforms of the World’s Great Armies 1700 to the Present, London: Weidenfeld and Nicolson, pp. 201–16.
    [Google Scholar]
50. Scorsese, Martin (1976), Taxi Driver, USA: Bill/Phillips Productions and Italo-Judeo Productions.
    [Google Scholar]
51. Seidler, De Vic (2006), Transforming Masculinities: Men, Cultures, Bodies, Power, Sex and Love, London and New York: Routledge.
    [Google Scholar]
52. Snodgrass, Mary Ellen (2015), World Clothing and Fashion: An Encyclopedia of History, Culture, and Social Influence, London and New York: Routledge.
    [Google Scholar]
53. Sontag, Susan (1975), ‘Fascinating fascism’, The New York Review, 6 February, https://www.nybooks.com/articles/1975/02/06/fascinating-fascism/. Accessed 19 June 2023.
    [Google Scholar]
54. Stone, Oliver (1989), Born on the Fourth of July, USA: Ixtlan Productions.
    [Google Scholar]
55. Tarquini, Alessandra (2022), A History of Italian Fascist Culture, 1922-1943, Madison, WI: The University of Wisconsin Press.
    [Google Scholar]
56. Turner, Nan (2022), Clothing Goes to War: Creativity Inspired by Scarcity in World War II, Bristol and Chicago, IL: Intellect.
    [Google Scholar]
57. Tynan, Jane (2016), ‘Michel Foucault: Fashioning the body politic’, in A. Rocamora and A. Smelik (eds), Thinking through Fashion: A Guide to Key Theorists, London and New York: I. B. Tauris, pp. 184–99.
    [Google Scholar]
58. Vargas, Mary (2009), ‘Fashion statement or political statement: The use of fashion to express black pride during the civil rights and black power movements of the 1960’s’, Undergraduate Review, 5, pp. 95–99.
    [Google Scholar]
59. Weight, Richard (2015), MOD from Bebop to Britpop, Britain’s Biggest Youth Movement, London: Vintage Books.
    [Google Scholar]
60. Zander, Patrick G. (2020), Fascism through History: Culture, Ideology, and Daily Life, Santa Barbara, CA: ABC-Clio.
    [Google Scholar]