Skip to content
1981
Indian Film Costume
  • ISSN: 2044-2823
  • E-ISSN: 2044-2831

Abstract

The Indian film industry has been globally known for its glamorous sets, costumes and intricate dance sequences. This study delves into the world of costume designs in renowned filmmaker Sanjay Leela Bhansali’s period films. Bhansali is known for his meticulous attention to detail and historical nuances. Employing a costume analysis methodology, this study focuses on the cultural significance embedded in Bhansali’s costumes through the prism of Indian traditional textiles, shedding light on how well-established techniques have been transformed into modernized attire. The women in the cinematic world of Bhansali are powerful yet passionate characters, who are entangled in tumultuous journeys of love and sacrifice. The study analyses two of those women characters – Kashibai from and Padmavati from . Both of these movies are based on real-life stories of an earlier era.

Loading

Article metrics loading...

/content/journals/10.1386/ffc_00078_1
2025-09-12
2026-04-10

Metrics

Loading full text...

Full text loading...

References

  1. Ali, M. (2022), ‘Jewellery of the Indian subcontinent: A significant cultural element’, Journal of Development and Social Sciences, 3:II, pp. 90115, https://doi.org/10.47205/jdss.2022(3-ii)81.
    [Google Scholar]
  2. Ayachit, S. (2020), ‘Nauvari a nine yard dream: A study of the popularity of the traditional saree, a symbol of cultural identity of Maharashtra, India’, International Journal of Modern Agriculture, 9:3, pp. 115363.
    [Google Scholar]
  3. Bhandari, V. (2004), ‘Shifting sands: Costume in Rajasthan’, in Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings, Lincoln: Textile Society of America, pp. 4452.
    [Google Scholar]
  4. Bhatia, R. (2014), ‘Sustaining the traditional Paithani saree weaving of Maharashtra, India’, in International Conference on Innovative Trends in Multidisciplinary Academic Research, Global Illuminators, Istanbul: ITMAR, pp. 33238, https://www.academia.edu/73987590/Sustaining_the_Traditional_Paithani_Saree_Weaving_of_Maharashtra_India. Accessed 15 February 2024.
    [Google Scholar]
  5. Bhatt, D. D. and Bhatt, U. R. (2023), ‘The multifaceted roles of costumes in cinematic artistry: A study of Umrao Jaan (1981)’, E-Journal of Humanities and Social Sciences, 4:4, pp. 18.
    [Google Scholar]
  6. Bureau, R. G. A. (2018), ‘How we designed Deepika, Ranveer, Shahid’s Padmaavat costumes’, Rediff, 24 January, https://www.rediff.com/getahead/report/how-rimple-harpreet-narula--designed-deepika-ranveer-shahids-padmaavat-costumes/20180125.htm. Accessed 8 February 2024.
  7. Chatterjee, A. (2017), ‘Meet the designer duo who brought Padmavati to life’, Khaleej Times, 27 October.
    [Google Scholar]
  8. Chaudhary, K. and Pant, S. (2016), ‘Value addition of the Kota Doria through designing techniques’, International Journal of Textile and Fashion Technology, 6:2, pp. 1526.
    [Google Scholar]
  9. Choi, H., Ko, E. and Megehee, C. M. (2014), ‘Fashion’s role in visualizing physical and psychological transformations in movies’, Journal of Business Research, 67:1, pp. 291118, https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jbusres.2012.06.002.
    [Google Scholar]
  10. Dashora, S. and Srivastava, M. (2021), ‘Present status and constraints of tie and dye craftsmen of Marwar region of Rajasthan’, International Research Journal of Modernization in Engineering Technology and Science, 3:5, pp. 3497504.
    [Google Scholar]
  11. Dwivedi, B. and Luniya, V. (2007), ‘Traditional costumes and their changing trends among Rajput community in parts of Western Rajasthan’, Asian Journal of Home Science, 2:1–2, pp. 6062.
    [Google Scholar]
  12. Faisal, S. (2016), ‘The decline of Varanasi Silk handloom cottage industry: A case study of brocade weaving community in Varanasi’, Chitrolekha International Magazine on Art and Design, 6:2, pp. 6776, https://doi.org/10.21659/chitro.v6n2.07.
    [Google Scholar]
  13. Gupta, S. (2017), ‘Metal embroidery on elephant trappings (Jhul)’, Textiles and Clothing Research Centre e-Journal, 1:2, pp. 1317.
    [Google Scholar]
  14. Guru, R., Rani, J. and Saini, U. (2023), ‘To study the Indian heritage of textile embroidery & creative design techniques process’, Techniques and Innovation in Engineering Research, 5, pp. 15871, https://doi.org/10.9734/bpi/taier/v5/4611c.
    [Google Scholar]
  15. Hada, J. S. and Chaturvedi, B. (2018), ‘Case study of Kota Doria handloom cluster, Rajasthan, India‘, Academicia: An International Multidisciplinary Research Journal, 8:10, p. 29, https://doi.org/10.5958/2249-7137.2018.00053.8.
    [Google Scholar]
  16. Hada, J. S. and Garg, Y. (2014), ‘The study of Gota Patti cluster at Nayla Village – Jaipur (Rajasthan) India’, Journal of Agriculture and Life Sciences, 1:1, pp. 5564.
    [Google Scholar]
  17. Hayward, S. (2000), Cinema Studies: The Key Concepts, 2nd ed., London and New York: Routledge.
    [Google Scholar]
  18. Joshi, A. A. (2021), ‘The splendour of Nauvari Kacha saree drape: A study on popularity’, International Journal of Textile and Fashion Technology, 11:2, pp. 1928, https://doi.org/10.24247/IJTFTDEC20213.
    [Google Scholar]
  19. Kalaiya, V. B. and Sharan, M. (2016), ‘Traditional textiles: Its variegated charm in royalty of Kachchh’, International Journal of Scientific Research, 5:7, pp. 2023.
    [Google Scholar]
  20. Khan, S. and Sahar, N. (2019), ‘Pattiwork: A unique applique craft of Aligarh, Uttar Pradesh’, Asian Journal of Home Science, 14:1, pp. 15968, https://doi.org/10.15740/has/ajhs/14.1/159-168.
    [Google Scholar]
  21. Khanna, G. B. (2019), ‘Indian textile dyeing and printing famous all over the world’, International Journal of Multidisciplinary Research in Science, Engineering and Technology, 2:10, pp. 205863.
    [Google Scholar]
  22. Khare, A. (2019), ‘Maheshwari handloom weaving tradition: A living cultural heritage’, e-BANGI Journal, 16:7, pp. 111.
    [Google Scholar]
  23. Londhe, C. U. (2011), ‘A study of the competitiveness of the handloom Paithani saree industry’, shodhganga, November 2015, https://shodhganga.inflibnet.ac.in:8443/jspui/handle/10603/143874. Accessed 10 February 2024.
  24. Luniya, V. and Agarwal, S. (2012), ‘Traditional Kota Doria saris: An innovative allure’, Asian Journal of Home Science, 7:1, pp. 1013.
    [Google Scholar]
  25. Peepul Tree World (2021), ‘चंदेरी शहर का शानदार इतिहास’ (‘The story of Chanderi’s glorious past’), YouTube, 9 February, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dza9ZE5t9aA. Accessed 15 February 2024.
  26. Rajput, A. (2020), ‘A royal representation of Indian culture’, International Journal of Home Science, 6:2, pp. 37577.
    [Google Scholar]
  27. Ranavaade, V. P. (2023), Indian Sari, London: Taylor & Francis.
    [Google Scholar]
  28. Ryan, H. M. (2018), ‘Creating character: A costumer design portfolio’, master thesis of Fine Arts in Theatre Arts, Iowa City, IA: University of Iowa.
    [Google Scholar]
  29. Sangar, S. P. (1965), ‘Female costumes in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries’, in S. Nurul Hasan (ed.), Proceedings of the Indian History Congress, vol. 27, Aligarh: Indian History Congress, pp. 24347.
    [Google Scholar]
  30. Sharma, P. (2017), ‘Padmavati: Jewellery designer Queeta Rawat shares her experience of working on a Sanjay Leela Bhansali film’, Firstpost, 1 November, https://www.firstpost.com/entertainment/padmavati-jewelry-designer-queeta-rawat-shares-her-experience-of-working-on-a-sanjay-leela-bhansali-film-4180207.html. Accessed 7 February 2024.
  31. Singh, S. (2022), ‘Historical review of Zardozi’, International Journal of Health Sciences, 6:S3, pp. 610208, https://doi.org/10.53730/ijhs.v6ns3.7343.
    [Google Scholar]
  32. Singh, S. and Gupta, A. H. (2021), ‘Unseen, unheard, unnamed: The matchless and unsung heroes of the textile art and craft of Rajasthan’, in Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings, Textile Society of America, https://doi.org/10.32873/unl.dc.tsasp.0126.
    [Google Scholar]
  33. Singh, R., Agarwal, S. and Modi, P. (2015), ‘Market separations for BOP producers’, International Journal of Rural Management, 11:2, pp. 17593, https://doi.org/10.1177/0973005215599280.
    [Google Scholar]
  34. Tanzer, K. and Longoria, R. (2007), The Green Braid, London: Routledge.
    [Google Scholar]
  35. Verma, S. and Mishra, N. (2018), ‘Recognition and marketing opportunities of a “GI” tag in handloom product: A study of Banaras brocades and sarees’, Journal of Intellectual Property Rights, 23, pp. 101110.
    [Google Scholar]
  36. Yadav, S. (2021), ‘A study on consumer awareness about the handloom products of Madhya Pradesh with special reference to Maheshwari and Chanderi handloom products’, International Journal of Advance Research and Innovative Ideas in Education, 7:5, pp. 14348, https://doi.org/16.0415/IJARIIE-15300.
    [Google Scholar]
  37. Yin, F. (2023), ‘Analysis of the role of costume design in shaping the characters of film and television’, Frontiers in Art Research, 5:6, pp. 5863, https://doi.org/10.25236/FAR.2023.050611.
    [Google Scholar]
  38. Anon. (2017), ‘The making of Padmavati song Ghoomar: Deepika Padukone’s 66 twirls, 30kg lehenga and more’, Hindustan Times, 26 October, https://www.hindustantimes.com/bollywood/the-making-of-padmavati-song-ghoomar-deepika-padukone-s-66-twirls-30kg-lehenga-and-more/story-NNDpE6gRTLEeS1zT106HhM.html. Accessed 10 January 2024.
    [Google Scholar]
  39. Ayachit, S. (2022), ‘Aambkapad, Chira, Khun, and more: Intercultural influences on fabrics of the Peshwas of Pune, India’, Textile, 21:1, pp. 34051, https://doi.org/10.1080/14759756.2022.2093010.
    [Google Scholar]
  40. Chaudhry, J. (2016), ‘A study on design ornamentation of banaras brocades with motifs inspired from nature (animals & birds)’, American International Journal of Research in Humanities, Arts and Social Sciences, 10:2, pp. 13032, http://dx.doi.org/10.51611/iars.irj.v10i2.2020.146.
    [Google Scholar]
  41. King, M. C. and Ridgway, J. L. (2019), ‘Costume evolution during the development of romantic relationships and its impact on the positions of power in the Star Wars prequel and original trilogies’, Fashion and Textiles, 6:1, pp. 115, https://doi.org/10.1186/s40691-018-0167-8.
    [Google Scholar]
  42. Mahajan, S. (2022), ‘Comparative study of original Paithani & duplicate Paithani’, International Journal of Textile and Fashion Technology, 12:1, pp. 3542.
    [Google Scholar]
  43. Omar, N. A. L. M. (2019), ‘Role of animation movies costumes as visual language indicating cultural identity’, International Journal of Artificial Intelligence and Emerging Technology, 2:2, pp. 1214, https://doi.org/10.21608/ijaiet.2019.181427.
    [Google Scholar]
  44. Sharma, S. and Rao, A. S. (2019), ‘Comparative study based on traditional hand embroidery and machine embroidery in present trends’, International Journal of Home Science, 5:3, pp. 26467.
    [Google Scholar]
/content/journals/10.1386/ffc_00078_1
Loading
/content/journals/10.1386/ffc_00078_1
Loading

Data & Media loading...

This is a required field
Please enter a valid email address
Approval was a success
Invalid data
An error occurred
Approval was partially successful, following selected items could not be processed due to error
Please enter a valid_number test