Dressmaking rediscovered: When design meets fashion in Helsinki | Intellect Skip to content
1981
Volume 9, Issue 3
  • ISSN: 2050-0726
  • E-ISSN: 2050-0734

Abstract

Fashion design as a combined term conveys a different connotation than separate words of fashion and design. This is due to the complexity of the fashion system that also involves certain social prejudices, such as gendered practice and being shallow. This has set a gap for considering fashion design as a serious topic to study in comparison to other design subfields such as architecture and industrial design. However, this article argues that by emphasizing the dressmaking aspect in designing fashion, prejudices can be overcome. Finland, especially its capital Helsinki, is an established place for design and an emerging place for fashion. The recent development of the place where the encounter of design and fashion took place provides a unique condition for exploring the contemporary dressmaking practice of Helsinki-based fashion designers. A number of aspects identified from the context are shared to demonstrate how fashion design can be revisited besides the image-making aspect.

Loading

Article metrics loading...

/content/journals/10.1386/fspc_00057_1
2022-07-01
2024-04-20
Loading full text...

Full text loading...

References

  1. Ainamo, A.. ( 1996), Industrial Design and Business Performance: A Case Study of Design Management in a Finnish Fashion Firm, Helsinki:: Helsinki School of Economics and Business Administration;.
    [Google Scholar]
  2. Barthes, R.. ( 1985), The Fashion System, London:: Jonathan Cape;.
    [Google Scholar]
  3. Biggs, M. A. R., and Büchler, D.. ( 2007;), ‘ Rigor and practice-based research. ’, Design Issues, 23:3, pp. 6269.
    [Google Scholar]
  4. Black, S.,, de la Haye, A.,, Entwistle, J.,, Root, R.,, Rocamora, A., and Thomas, H.. ( 2013), The Handbook of Fashion Studies, London:: Bloomsbury Academic;.
    [Google Scholar]
  5. Buckley, C., and Clark, H.. ( 2017), Fashion and Everyday Life: London and New York, London:: Bloomsbury Academic;.
    [Google Scholar]
  6. Burman, B.. ( 1999), The Culture of Sewing: Gender, Consumption and Home Dressmaking, Oxford:: Berg Publishers;.
    [Google Scholar]
  7. Chun, N.. ( 2018), Re(dis)covering Fashion Designers: Interweaving Dressmaking and Placemaking, Helsinki:: Aalto University School of Arts, Design and Architecture;.
    [Google Scholar]
  8. Chun, N., and Gurova, O.. ( 2019;), ‘ Place-making the local to reach the global: A case study of Pre Helsinki. ’, Fashion Practice, 11:1, pp. 2652.
    [Google Scholar]
  9. Chun, N.,, Gurova, O., and Niinimäki, K.. ( 2017;), ‘ Rethinking the roles of fashion designers: The case of Pre Helsinki. ’, Design Journal, 20:sup1, pp. S447786.
    [Google Scholar]
  10. Chun, N.,, Niinimäki, K., and Gurova, O.. ( 2019;), ‘ Fashion dreams or fashion business: Helsinki as an emerging fashion scene. ’, Fashion Theory, Russian edition : 51, pp. 23757.
    [Google Scholar]
  11. Colliander, O.. ( 2015), The Finnish Fashion Entrepreneurship Ecosystem, Helsinki:: Aalto University School of Arts, Design and Architecture;.
    [Google Scholar]
  12. Crane, D.. ( 1993), Fashion and Its Social Agendas: Class, Gender, and Identity in Clothing, Chicago:: University of Chicago Press;.
    [Google Scholar]
  13. Crewe, L.. ( 2017), The Geographies of Fashion: Consumption, Space, and Value, London:: Bloomsbury Academic;.
    [Google Scholar]
  14. Davies, K.. ( 2002;), ‘ A geographical notion turned into an artistic reality: Promoting Finland and selling Finnish design in post-war Britain c. 1953–1965. ’, Journal of Design History, 15:2, pp. 10116.
    [Google Scholar]
  15. Davis, F.. ( 1994), Fashion, Culture, and Identity, Chicago:: University of Chicago Press;.
    [Google Scholar]
  16. Eicher, J. B.,, Evenson, S. L., and Lutz, H. A.. ( 2008), The Visible Self: Global Perspectives on Dress, Culture, and Society, New York:: Fairchild Publications;.
    [Google Scholar]
  17. Entwistle, J.. ( 2015), The Fashioned Body: Fashion, Dress and Social Theory, , 2nd ed.., Cambridge, MA:: Polity;.
    [Google Scholar]
  18. van Eynde, F., and Wiinamäki, W.. ( 2012), Clothing and Textile Sector in Finland, Helsinki:: Flanders Investment & Trade;.
    [Google Scholar]
  19. Finn, A. L.. ( 2014), Designing Fashion: An Exploration of Practitioner Research within the University Environment, Brisbane:: Queensland University of Technology;.
    [Google Scholar]
  20. Friedman, K.. ( 2003;), ‘ Theory construction in design research criteria: Approaches, and methods. ’, Design Studies, 24:6, pp. 50722.
    [Google Scholar]
  21. Gimeno-Martínez, J.. ( 2007;), ‘ Selling avant-garde: How Antwerp became a fashion capital (1990–2002). ’, Urban Studies, 44:12, pp. 244964.
    [Google Scholar]
  22. Gimeno-Martínez, J.. ( 2011;), ‘ Restructuring plans for the textile and clothing sector in post-industrial Belgium and Spain. ’, Fashion Practice, 3:2, pp. 197224.
    [Google Scholar]
  23. Godart, F.. ( 2012), Unveiling Fashion: Business, Culture, and Identity in the Most Glamorous Industry, Hampshire:: Palgrave Macmillan;.
    [Google Scholar]
  24. Granata, F.. ( 2012;), ‘ Fashion studies in-between: A methodological case study and an inquiry into the state of fashion studies. ’, Fashion Theory, 16:1, pp. 6782.
    [Google Scholar]
  25. Grayson, D.. ( 2013;), ‘ Helsinki’s Aalto University to give creative currency fashion seminar & show. ’, The Swelle Life , https://www.theswellelife.com/swelle_life/2013/05/helsinkis-aalto-university-to-give-creative-currency-fashion-seminar-show.html. Accessed 28 November 2018.
  26. Grumbach, D.. ( 2014), History of International Fashion, Northampton, MA:: Interlink Publishing;.
    [Google Scholar]
  27. Gurova, O., and Morozova, D.. ( 2016;), ‘ A critical approach to sustainable fashion: Practices of clothing designers in the Kallio neighborhood of Helsinki. ’, Journal of Consumer Culture, 18:3, pp. 397413.
    [Google Scholar]
  28. Hohti, P.. ( 2011), Boundless Design: Perspectives on Finnish Applied Arts, Helsinki:: Avain;.
    [Google Scholar]
  29. Jenss, H.. ( 2016), Fashion Studies: Research Methods, Sites, and Practices, London:: Bloomsbury Academic;.
    [Google Scholar]
  30. Julier, G.. ( 2013), The Culture of Design, , 3rd ed.., London:: Sage Publishing;.
    [Google Scholar]
  31. Kaiser, S. B.. ( 1996), The Social Psychology of Clothing: Symbolic Appearances in Context, London:: Bloomsbury;.
    [Google Scholar]
  32. Kawamura, Y.. ( 2005), Fashion-ology: An Introduction to Fashion Studies, Oxford:: Berg Publishers;.
    [Google Scholar]
  33. Kawamura, Y.. ( 2011), Doing Research in Fashion and Dress: An Introduction to Qualitative Methods, Oxford:: Berg Publishers;.
    [Google Scholar]
  34. Korvenmaa, P.. ( 2010), Finnish Design: A Concise History, Helsinki:: University of Art and Design Helsinki;.
    [Google Scholar]
  35. Lavery, J. E.. ( 2006), The History of Finland, Westport, CT:: Greenwood Publishing;.
    [Google Scholar]
  36. Lille, K.. ( 2010), Tevallako Tulevaisuuteen, Helsinki:: Diges Ry;.
    [Google Scholar]
  37. Lipovetsky, G.. ( 1994), The Empire of Fashion: Dressing Modern Democracy, Princeton, NJ:: Princeton University Press;.
    [Google Scholar]
  38. Loschek, I.. ( 2009), When Clothes Become Fashion: Design and Innovation Systems, Oxford:: Berg Publishers;.
    [Google Scholar]
  39. Manzini, E.. ( 2015), Design, When Everybody Designs: An Introduction to Design for Social Innovation, Cambridge, MA:: MIT Press;.
    [Google Scholar]
  40. McNeil, P.. ( 2010;), ‘ Conference report: “The future of fashion studies”. ’, Fashion Theory, 14:1, pp. 10510.
    [Google Scholar]
  41. McRobbie, A.. ( 1998), British Fashion: Rag Trade or Image Industry?, London:: Routledge;.
    [Google Scholar]
  42. Moreno, V.. ( 2015;), ‘ Helsinki, fashion’s healthy wealthy bubble. ’, Metal Magazine, https://metalmagazine.eu/en/post/interview/tuomas-laitinen-helsinki-fashions-healthy-wealthy-bubble. Accessed 1 February 2018.
    [Google Scholar]
  43. Niinimäki, K.,, Salolainen, M., and Kääriäinen, P.. ( 2018;), ‘ Opening up new textile futures through collaborative rethinking and remaking. ’, in N. Nimkulrat,, U. Ræbild, and A. Piper. (eds), Soft Landing, Helsinki:: Cumulus Think Tank Publication;, pp. 5368.
    [Google Scholar]
  44. Nixon, N. W., and Blakley, J.. ( 2012;), ‘ Fashion thinking: Towards an actionable methodology. ’, Fashion Practice, 4:2, pp. 15376.
    [Google Scholar]
  45. Pechman, A.. ( 2016;), ‘ Tuomas Laitinen’s Finland. ’, Visionaire Blog , https://www.visionaireworld.com/blog/tuomas-laitinens-finland/. Accessed 1 February 2018.
  46. Petersen, L.. ( 2015;), ‘ Meet Finland’s rising fashion stars. ’, W Magazine, http://www.wmagazine.com/gallery/new-finnish-fashion-designers/all. Accessed 1 February 2018.
    [Google Scholar]
  47. Pöppönen, H.. ( 2016;), ‘ It’s time for Finnish fashion to take the big leap. ’, Helsinki Design Week , http://www.helsinkidesignweek.com/weekly/its-time-for-finnishfashion-%0Dto-take-the-big-leap/?lang=en. Accessed 1 February 2018.
  48. Rantisi, N. M.. ( 2002;), ‘ The competitive foundations of localized learning and innovation: The case of women’s garment production in New York City. ’, Economic Geography, 78:4, p. 441.
    [Google Scholar]
  49. Riegels Melchior, M.. ( 2010;), ‘ “Doing” Danish fashion: On national identity and design practices of a small Danish fashion company. ’, Fashion Practice, 2:1, pp. 1340.
    [Google Scholar]
  50. Riegels Melchior, M.. ( 2011;), ‘ From design nations to fashion nations? Unpacking contemporary Scandinavian fashion dreams. ’, Fashion Theory, 15:2, pp. 177200.
    [Google Scholar]
  51. Salolainen, M.,, Leppisaari, A.-M., and Niinimäki, K.. ( 2018;), ‘ Transforming fashion pedagogy through textile thinking. ’, Arts, 8:3, pp. 110.
    [Google Scholar]
  52. Salonoja, N.. ( 2013), Bridging the Equity and Entrepreneurial Gaps in the Finnish Fashion Industry: A Comparative Case Study of the Swedish, Danish & Finnish Fashion Ecosystems, Helsinki:: Aalto University School of Business;.
    [Google Scholar]
  53. Sennett, R.. ( 2008), The Craftsman, New Haven, CT:: Yale University Press;.
    [Google Scholar]
  54. Sherman, L.. ( 2014;), ‘ Can Marimekko go from cult design brand to fashion empire?. ’, Fast Company Design , https://www.fastcodesign.com/3032624/can-marimekko-go-from-cult-design-brand-to-fashion-empire. Accessed 1 February 2018.
  55. Sinha, P.. ( 2000;), ‘ The role of designing through making across market levels in the UK fashion industry. ’, Design Journal, 3:3, pp. 2644.
    [Google Scholar]
  56. Sinha, P.. ( 2002;), ‘ Creativity in fashion. ’, Journal of Textile and Apparel, Technology and Management, 2:4, p. 16.
    [Google Scholar]
  57. Sjöroos, M.. ( 2016;), ‘ Finnish fashion embodies playful minimalism. ’, Helsinki Design Week , http://www.helsinkidesignweek.com/series/finnish-fashion-embodies-playful-minimalism/. Accessed 1 February 2018.
  58. Skov, L.. ( 2001), Stories of World Fashion and the Hong Kong Fashion World, Pokfulam:: University of Hong Kong;.
    [Google Scholar]
  59. Skov, L.. ( 2002;), ‘ Hong Kong fashion designers as cultural intermediaries: Out of global garment production. ’, Cultural Studies, 16:4, pp. 55369.
    [Google Scholar]
  60. Skov, L.. ( 2011;), ‘ Dreams of small nations in a polycentric fashion world. ’, Fashion Theory, 15:2, pp. 13756.
    [Google Scholar]
  61. Solitander, N.. ( 2010;), ‘ Better by design? A critical appraisal of the creative economy in Finland. ’, in G. Rusten, and J. R. Bryson. (eds), Industrial Design, Competition, and Globalization, Basingstoke:: Palgrave Macmillan;, pp. 5080.
    [Google Scholar]
  62. Szmydke, P., and Folcher, L.. ( 2013;), ‘ Finnish up: Finland’s fashion moment. ’, Women’s Wear Daily, http://wwd.com/fashion-news/designerluxury/finnish-up-7283485/. Accessed 1 February 2018.
    [Google Scholar]
  63. Takkinen, T.. ( 2015), Profiting from Innovation in International Markets: Case of Finnish Fashion Industry, Oulu:: University of Oulu, Oulu Business School;, http://jultika.oulu.fi/files/nbnfioulu-201403131175.pdf. Accessed 1 February 2018.
    [Google Scholar]
  64. Teunissen, J.. ( 2011;), ‘ Deconstructing Belgian and Dutch fashion dreams: From global trends to local crafts. ’, Fashion Theory, 15:2, pp. 15776.
    [Google Scholar]
  65. Tseëlon, E.. ( 2001;), ‘ Fashion research and its discontents. ’, Fashion Theory, 5:4, pp. 43551.
    [Google Scholar]
  66. Vinken, B.. ( 2005), Fashion Zeitgeist: Trends and Cycles in the Fashion System, Oxford:: Berg Publishers;.
    [Google Scholar]
  67. Walker, J. A.. ( 1989), Design History and the History of Design, London:: Pluto Press;.
    [Google Scholar]
  68. Wenders, W.. ( 1996), Notebook on Cities and Clothes, USA:: Startz/Anchor Bay;.
    [Google Scholar]
  69. Chun, Namkyu. ( 2022;), ‘ Dressmaking rediscovered: When design meets fashion in Helsinki. ’, Fashion, Style & Popular Culture, 9:3, pp. 32943, https://doi.org/10.1386/fspc_00057_1
    [Google Scholar]
http://instance.metastore.ingenta.com/content/journals/10.1386/fspc_00057_1
Loading
This is a required field
Please enter a valid email address
Approval was a success
Invalid data
An error occurred
Approval was partially successful, following selected items could not be processed due to error