Skip to content
1981
image of Don’t get hype on your own supply: The role of the modern sneaker reseller

Abstract

Sneaker resellers exist in an interesting space. While they do not produce any durable goods, they nonetheless produce value for a host of stakeholders in the modern shoe industry, including sneaker companies, reselling platforms and consignment shops. The modern reseller extends the hype of the sneaker by using sophisticated means to take sneakers immediately off the market so that scarcity is accented. While sneaker resellers are derided by sneaker enthusiasts and some executives at the likes of Nike and Adidas for abusing the system by price gouging people who actually want to buy the shoes, these individuals play an important role in the modern sneaker economy. Using the theory of immaterial labour by Lazzarato and Hardt and Negri, the purpose of this manuscript is to explain how sneaker resellers act as more than ‘middlemen’ as what they produce cannot be easily quantified, but it is no less important. The researcher interviewed nineteen sneaker resellers throughout the continental United States to better understand how they operate in the secondary sneaker market, where they have the potential to significantly mark up prices. The data reveal how the immaterial labour of modern sneaker resellers is significant because of the ways in which they induce artificial scarcity, lend legitimacy to modern reselling platforms like eBay and Stock X, and develop and cultivate relationships with stockroom employees to secure the most sought-after shoes.

Loading

Article metrics loading...

/content/journals/10.1386/fspc_00319_1
2025-04-30
2026-04-19

Metrics

Loading full text...

Full text loading...

References

  1. Affuso, Elizabeth (2023), ‘Drop culture: Masculinity, fashion performance, and collecting in hypebeast brand communities’, in S. Scott (ed.), Sartorial Fandom: Fashion, Beauty Culture and Identity, Ann Arbor, MI: University of Michigan Press, pp. 14962.
    [Google Scholar]
  2. Bell, Karen (2011), ‘Participants’ motivations and co-construction of the qualitative research process’, Qualitative Social Work, 12:4, pp. 52339, https://doi.org/10.1177/1473325011429020.
    [Google Scholar]
  3. Burgess, Wallace (2020), ‘Hip hop sneaker collaborations’, Intertext, 28:1, pp. 2325.
    [Google Scholar]
  4. Cachia, Moria and Millward, Lynne (2011), ‘The telephone medium and semi-structured interviews: A. complementary fit’, Qualitative Research in Organizations and Management: An International Journal, 6:3, pp. 26577, https://doi.org/10.1108/17465641111188420.
    [Google Scholar]
  5. Choi, Jin Woo (2017), ‘Sneakerheads’ assessment of sneaker value and behaviors throughout the sneaker ownership cycle’, doctoral dissertation, Corvallis, OR: Oregon State University.
    [Google Scholar]
  6. Choi, Jimmy and Kim, Minjeong (2019), ‘Sneakerhead brand community netnography: An exploratory research’, Fashion, Style & Popular Culture, 6:2, pp. 14158.
    [Google Scholar]
  7. Choi, Yoonseo and Lee, Kyuhye (2021), ‘Recent changes in consumer perception in sneaker resale market’, International Journal of Costume and Fashion, 21:1, pp. 6779, https://doi.org/10.7233/ijcf.2021.21.1.067.
    [Google Scholar]
  8. Cote, Mark and Pybus, Jennifer (2007), ‘Learning to immaterial labor 2.0: MySpace and social networks’, Ephemera: Theory & Politics in Organization, 7:1, pp. 88106.
    [Google Scholar]
  9. Dial, Aaron Joseph (2022), ‘Deadstock, a philosophy of sneakers and materiality in the afterlife of Black bodies’, doctoral dissertation, Raleigh, NC: North Carolina State University.
    [Google Scholar]
  10. Dyer-Witheford, Nick (2001), ‘Empire, immaterial labor, the new combinations, and the global worker’, Rethinking Marxism, 13:3–4, pp. 7080, https://doi.org/10.1080/089356901101242009.
    [Google Scholar]
  11. Fresco, Estee (2020), ‘In LeBron James’ promotional skin: Self-branded athletes and fans’ immaterial labor’, Journal of Consumer Culture, 20:4, pp. 44056, https://doi.org/10.1177/1469540517745705.
    [Google Scholar]
  12. Garcia, Bobbito (2003), Where’d You Get Those? New York City’s Sneaker Culture: 1960–1987, New York: Testify Books.
    [Google Scholar]
  13. Gould, Claire (2007), ‘The best sneakers: The Nike Air Max Classic TW’, in A. McKee (ed.), Beautiful Things in Popular Culture, New York: Blackwell Publishing, pp. 99110.
    [Google Scholar]
  14. Grbich, Carol (2007), Qualitative Data Analysis: An Introduction, London: Sage Publications.
    [Google Scholar]
  15. Gunduz, Erin (2020), ‘The intersection of sneakerhead culture and racism in the United States of America’, Intersect, 13:2, pp. 126.
    [Google Scholar]
  16. Hardt, Michael and Negri, Antonio (2001), Empire, Cambridge, MA: Harvard University Press.
    [Google Scholar]
  17. Harris, Brandon, Hansen, Jared, Can, Onder, Rahman, Waseq, Foxman, Maxwell and CoteAmanda, Tara (2022), ‘Starting from scratch to looking really clean and professional: How students’ productive labor legitimizes collegiate esports’, Critical Studies in Media Communication, 39:2, pp. 14153.
    [Google Scholar]
  18. Hatch, Amos (2002), Doing Qualitative Research in Educational Settings, New York: State University of New York Press.
    [Google Scholar]
  19. Hesmondhalgh, David (2010), ‘User-generated content, free labor and the cultural industries’, Ephemera: Theory & Politics in Organization, 10:3, pp. 26784.
    [Google Scholar]
  20. Jarrett, Kylie (2014), ‘The relevance of “women’s work”: Social reproduction and immaterial labor in digital media’, Television & New Media, 15:1, pp. 1429.
    [Google Scholar]
  21. Kawamura, Yuniya (2016), Sneakers: Fashion, Gender, and Subculture, London: Bloomsbury Press.
    [Google Scholar]
  22. Krishnamurthy, Somya (2023), Fashion Killa: How Hip Hop Revolutionized High Fashion, New York: Gallery Books.
    [Google Scholar]
  23. Kulinicheva, Ekaterina (2021), ‘Sneakerheads as fans and sneaker fandom as participatory culture’, Transformative Works and Cultures, 36:1, pp. 19.
    [Google Scholar]
  24. Lazarrato, Maurizio (1996), ‘Immaterial labor’, in P. Virno and M. Hardt (eds), Radical Thought in Italy: A Potential Politics, Minneapolis, MN: University of Minnesota Press, pp. 13650.
    [Google Scholar]
  25. Lesniak, Andrzej (2022), ‘Transcriptions and relative novelty: Virgil Abloh’s design strategies’, Fashion Theory, 26:6, pp. 82137, https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704x.2022.2047290.
    [Google Scholar]
  26. Lillie, Jon (2006), ‘Immaterial labor in the eBay community: The work of consumption in the network society’, in K. Hillis, M. Petit and N. Epley (eds), Everyday eBay: Culture, Collecting and Desire, New York: Routledge, pp. 91106.
    [Google Scholar]
  27. Lux, Moritz and Bug, Peter (2018), Sole Value – The Sneaker Resale Market: An Explorative Analysis of the Sneaker Resale Market, Reutlingen: Hochschule Reutlingen.
    [Google Scholar]
  28. Matthews, Delisia, Coupet, Qiana and Degirmencioglu, Nimet (2021), ‘I wear, therefore I am: Investigating sneakerhead culture, social identity, and preference among men’, Fashion and Textiles, 8:1, pp. 113.
    [Google Scholar]
  29. Michigan, Sarah (2022), ‘Sneaker bots and botnets: Malicious digital tools that harm rather than help e-commerce’, Rutgers Business Law Review, 17:2, pp. 169213.
    [Google Scholar]
  30. Miller, Jody and Glassner, Barry (2011), ‘The “inside” and the “outside”: Finding realities in interviews’, in D. Silverman (ed.), Qualitative Research, London: Sage Publications, pp. 13148.
    [Google Scholar]
  31. Pedeliento, Giuseppe, Mangio, Federico, Littlewood, Asja, Murtas, Gabriele and Manfrini, Giorgia (2021), ‘A new paradigm in the luxury fashion industry: Off-White and the rise of luxury streetwear’, Sage Business Cases, 1:1, pp. 320.
    [Google Scholar]
  32. Perez, Claudia (2021), ‘Just “dropped”: Nike’s latest trademark foreshadows the demise of the knockoff sneaker industry and limits consumer choice’, North Carolina Journal of Law & Technology, 23:2, pp. 41650.
    [Google Scholar]
  33. Polkinghorne, Donald (2005), ‘Language and meaning: Data collection in qualitative research’, Journal of Counseling Psychology, 52:2, pp. 13745.
    [Google Scholar]
  34. Powers, Devon (2011), ‘Bruce Springsteen, rock criticism, and the music business: Towards a theory and history of hype’, Popular Music and Society, 34:2, pp. 20319, https://doi.org/10.1080/03007761003726472.
    [Google Scholar]
  35. Powers, Devon (2012), ‘Notes on hype’, International Journal of Communication, 6:1, pp. 85773.
    [Google Scholar]
  36. Rocamora, Agnes (2018), ‘The labour of fashion blogging’, in L. Armstrong and F. McDowell (eds), Fashioning Professionals: Identity and Representation at Work in the Creative Industries, New York: Bloomsbury Academic Press, pp. 6581.
    [Google Scholar]
  37. Roman, Edgar (2019), ‘Finding meaning in celebrity sneaker consumption: A narrative identity exploration’, doctoral dissertation, Santa Barbara, CA: Fielding Graduate University.
    [Google Scholar]
  38. Saldana, Johnny (2009), The Coding Manual for Qualitative Researchers, London: Sage Publications.
    [Google Scholar]
  39. Semmelhack, Elizabeth (2015), Out of the Box: The Rise of Sneaker Culture, New York: Rizzoli.
    [Google Scholar]
  40. Silk, Michael, Andrews, David and Mason, Daniel (2006), Qualitative Research Methods in Sports Studies, New York: Publications.
    [Google Scholar]
  41. Slaton, Kelcie and Pookulangara, Sanjukta (2021), ‘Collaborative consumption: An investigation into the secondary sneaker market’, International Journal of Consumer Studies, 46:3, pp. 76380, https://doi.org/10.1111/ijcs.12725.
    [Google Scholar]
  42. Smythe, Liz and Giddings, Lynne (2007), ‘From experience to definition: Addressing the question what is qualitative research?’, Nursing Praxis in New Zealand, 23:1, pp. 3757.
    [Google Scholar]
  43. Sykes, Mike (2020), ‘Kobe fans were mad at Nike’s SNKR’s app after they couldn’t get the Kobe 6 Grinch on Christmas Eve’, USA Today, 24 December, https://ftw.usatoday.com/lists/nike-snkrs-app-kobe-grinch-6-christmas-shoes. Accessed 20 January 2022.
    [Google Scholar]
  44. Terranova, Tiziana (2000), ‘Free labor: Producing culture for the digital economy’, Social Text, 18:2, pp. 3358, https://doi.org/10.1215/01642472-18-2_63-33.
    [Google Scholar]
  45. Wallace, Brandon and Andrews, David (2022), ‘Decolonizing the sneaker: Sneaker customization and the racial politics of expressive popular culture’, Journal of Sport and Social Issues, 1:1, pp. 122.
    [Google Scholar]
  46. Wallace, Brandon and Andrews, David (2024), ‘The contested terrain of sporting consumption: Navigating through meaning, identity, and late capitalist marketing through sneaker consumption’, Social Sciences, 13:1, pp. 116.
    [Google Scholar]
  47. White, Michelle (2012), Buy It Now: Lessons from eBay, London: Duke University Press.
    [Google Scholar]
  48. Wilkinson, Maryn (2017), ‘Leisure/crime, immaterial labor, and the performance of the teenage girl in Harmony Korine’s Spring Breakers (2012) and Sofia Coppola’s The Bling Ring (2013)’, Journal of Feminist Scholarship, 12:1, pp. 2037.
    [Google Scholar]
  49. Wissinger, Elizabeth (2007), ‘Modeling a way of life: Immaterial and affective labour in the fashion modeling industry’, Ephemera: Theory & Politics in Organization, 7:1, pp. 25069.
    [Google Scholar]
  50. Zanette, Maria, Pueschel, Julia and Touzani, Mourad (2022), ‘Re-arranging dressing practices: The role of objects in spreading ugly luxury’, Journal of Business Research, 145:1, pp. 784800.
    [Google Scholar]
  51. Zhang, Lin (2014), ‘Fashioning the feminine self in “prosumer capitalism”: Women’s work and the transnational reselling of Western luxury online’, Journal of Consumer Culture, 17:2, pp. 184204.
    [Google Scholar]
/content/journals/10.1386/fspc_00319_1
Loading
  • Article Type: Article
Keywords: Nike ; sneakers ; bots ; immaterial labour ; fashion ; reselling
This is a required field
Please enter a valid email address
Approval was a success
Invalid data
An error occurred
Approval was partially successful, following selected items could not be processed due to error
Please enter a valid_number test