Skip to content
1981
1-2: Dressing through Pandemics
  • ISSN: 2050-0726
  • E-ISSN: 2050-0734

Abstract

Dress is an essential element of social identity and has been used in achieving social cohesion and belonging in societies. In Nigeria, dress is a key aspect of cultural heritage and practices. One of such practices is the culture which involves groups of people adopting a unique dress code, mostly cultural dress, to social events. The clothing culture is prevalent amongst Nigerians but has spread to other parts of Africa and has also been adopted by Africans in the diaspora. The tradition has continued to evolve in the digital age, becoming a significant part of a visual culture on platforms like Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest. Several Instagram accounts are dedicated to the documentation of the culture, which has since become a niche market in the Nigerian fashion industry for various stakeholders including make-up artists and photographers. Clothing cultures such as the phenomenon in Nigeria were impacted during the global COVID-19 pandemic, which resulted in lockdowns and measures that prevented mass gatherings, hence social events came to a halt or were conducted virtually. This article explores the visual memories of cultural dress in an era where group and mass gatherings were at the barest minimum and the impact of the COVID-19 pandemic on the sustenance of this cultural dress code within that period. The content analysis method was adopted for this study in the examination of Nigerian-based Instagram account, AsoEbiBella, during the lockdown period in Nigeria. Findings show that social media platforms employed nostalgia and hope in crafting an idealized vision of social gatherings and social dress codes in a period of social distancing.

Loading

Article metrics loading...

/content/journals/10.1386/fspc_00331_1
2025-06-09
2026-04-12

Metrics

Loading full text...

Full text loading...

References

  1. Adesanmi, Pius (2009), ‘Oju l’oro wa!’, Nigerian Village Square, http://www.nigeriavillagesquare.com/pius-adesanmi/oju-loro-wa.html. Accessed 10 August 2024.
  2. Adesoji, Abimbola and Olaniyi, Olusegun (2023), ‘Aso Ebi: Appraising the changing nature of the culture and practice of uniform social clothing for celebrations among the Yoruba of Southwestern Nigeria’, in S. M. Sajid, V. Nadesan, J. Przeperski, M. R. Islam and J. G. R. Baikady (eds), The Palgrave Handbook of Global Social Change, Cham: Palgrave Macmillan, pp. 115.
    [Google Scholar]
  3. Ahmad, Araz Ramazan and Murad, H. Rasool (2020), ‘The impact of social media on panic during the COVID-19 pandemic in Iraqi Kurdistan: Online questionnaire study’, Journal of Medical Internet Research, 22:5, p. e19556, https://doi.org/10.2196/19556.
    [Google Scholar]
  4. Ajani, Oludele (2012), ‘Aso Ebi: The dynamics of fashion and cultural commodification in Nigeria’, The Journal of Pan African Studies, 5:6, pp. 10818.
    [Google Scholar]
  5. Akinlami, Folajogun (2024), ‘#Hashtags to the rescue: A case study of Nigeria’, Zaria Journal of Communication, 12:5, pp. 4254, https://doi.org/10.37745/gjahss.2013/vol12n54254.
    [Google Scholar]
  6. Aloui-Zarrouk, Zohra, El Youssfi, Lahcen, Badu, Kingsley, Adeniyi, Fagbamigbe F., Matoke-Muhia, Damaris, Ngugi, Caroline, Dukhi, Natisha and Mwaura, Grace (2020), ‘The wearing of face masks in African countries under the COVID-19 crisis: Luxury or necessity?’, Open Research Africa, 3:36, https://doi.org/10.12688/aasopenres.13079.1.
    [Google Scholar]
  7. Amzat, Jimoh, Aminu, Kafayat, Kolo, Victor, Akinyele, Ayodele, Ogundairo, Janet and Danjibo, Maryann (2020), ‘Coronavirus outbreak in Nigeria: Burden and socio-medical response during the first 100 days’, International Journal Infectious Diseases, 98, pp. 21824, https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ijid.2020.06.067.
    [Google Scholar]
  8. Areo, Margaret (2016), ‘Regbe-regbe: Multidimensional impact of cloth and colour in Ojude-Oba festival’, International Journal of Humanities and Social Sciences, 5:5, pp. 5572.
    [Google Scholar]
  9. AsoEbiBella (@asoebibella) (2013), ‘Aso Ebi Bella’, Instagram, June, https://www.instagram.com/asoebibella/. Accessed 22 October 2024.
  10. AsoEbiBella (@asoebibella) (2020a), ‘Please take a minute, read below’, Instagram, 19 March, https://www.instagram.com/asoebibella/p/B95_73EB4_M/. Accessed 24 July 2024.
  11. AsoEbiBella (@asoebibella) (2020b), ‘Leave a recommendation below’, Instagram, 27 March, https://www.instagram.com/asoebibella/p/B-OtL4oBFdS/. Accessed 24 July 2024.
  12. AsoEbiBella (@asoebibella) (2020c), ‘Outfit: @ceolumineeofficial’, Instagram, 4 April, https://www.instagram.com/asoebibella/reel/B-jkd1Eh7nT/. Accessed 24 July 2024.
  13. AsoEbiBella (@asoebibella) (2020d), ‘One more shot before we meet’, Instagram, 22 April, https://www.instagram.com/asoebibella/p/B_SeO9NhIVh/. Accessed 24 July 2024.
  14. AsoEbiBella (@asoebibella) (2020e), ‘How we are pulling up once’, Instagram, 22 April, https://www.instagram.com/asoebibella/reel/B_S_e64hWJE/. Accessed 24 July 2024.
  15. AsoEbiBella (@asoebibella) (2020f), ‘One of the first Zoom weddings’, Instagram, 29 April, http://instagram.com/asoebibella/p/B_jggD6BSDb/. Accessed 24 July 2024.
  16. AsoEbiBella (@asoebibella) (2020g), ‘Mask up Lasgidi!’, Instagram, 28 April, https://www.instagram.com/asoebibella/p/B_hayQaheTf/. Accessed 24 July 2024.
  17. AsoEbiBella (@asoebibella) (2020h), ‘#Maskup & slay’, Instagram, 29 May, https://www.instagram.com/asoebibella/p/B_-DkoVBSUL/. Accessed 24 July 2024.
  18. AsoebiAfrica (@asoebiafrica) (2013), ‘Asoebiafrica’, Instagram, October, https://www.instagram.com/asoebiafrica/. Accessed 22 October 2024.
  19. Badeji, Susan Olubukola (2023), ‘Nigeria’s flamboyant aso ebi dressing style is popular – but it’s become a financial burden’, https://theconversation.com/nigerias-flamboyant-aso-ebi-dressing-style-is-popular-but-its-become-a-financial-burden-218174. Accessed 22 July 2024.
  20. BBC (2020b), ‘COVID-19 and Nigeria’s event planning industry’, BBC, 9 November, https://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/p08xv3p0. Accessed 6 August 2024.
  21. Bellanaija (n.d.), ‘About us’, BellaNaija, https://www.bellanaija.com/about/. Accessed 19 February 2025.
  22. Bobie, Adwoa Owusuaa (2020), ‘“Looking good is good business”: The social mileu of fashion in Lagos, Nigeria’, Global Journal of Human-Social Science, 20:3, pp. 1524.
    [Google Scholar]
  23. Cho, Hichang, Li, Pengxiang, Ngien, Annabel, Grace Tan, Marion, Chen, Anfan and Nekmat, Elmie (2023), ‘The bright and dark sides of social media use during COVID-19 lockdown: Contrasting social media effects through social liability vs. social support’, Computational Human Behaviour, 146, September, https://doi.org/10.1016/j.chb.2023.107795.
    [Google Scholar]
  24. Chuks, Madukasi Francis (2018), ‘Aso-Ebi (group uniform): An imported symbolic culture that projects solidarity and cohesion in traditional Igbo cosmology’, International Journal of Social Sciences and Humanities Invention, 5:3, pp. 446173, https://valleyinternational.net/index.php/theijsshi/article/view/1102. Accessed 30 April 2025.
    [Google Scholar]
  25. Dairo, Morolake (2022), ‘User-generated content (UGC) and fashion media: A study of Asoebibella in Nigeria’, Fashion Studies, 4:1, pp. 126, https://doi.org/10.38055/fs040107.
    [Google Scholar]
  26. Diyaolu, Idowu, Akinwumi, Tunde, Adubi, Kikelomo and Bakare, Kudirat (2023), ‘Sustainability in Ojude-Oba dress tradition and tourism’, Cogent Arts and Humanities, 10:1, https://doi.org/10.1080/23311983.2023.2228030.
    [Google Scholar]
  27. Dodd, Christopher, Clarke, Ian, Baron, Steve and Houston, Vicky (1998), ‘“Looking the part”: Identity, meaning and culture in clothing purchasing – Theoretical considerations’, Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, 4:1, pp. 4148, https://doi.org/10.1108/eb022578.
    [Google Scholar]
  28. Dowling, Stephen (2021), ‘2021: The year of the mask’, BBC, 21 December, https://www.bbc.com/future/article/20211210-the-ways-masks-defined-our-year. Accessed 22 July 2024.
  29. Fagbola, Ladipo, McEachern, Morven and Raftopoulou, Christina (2023), ‘Liminal consumption within Nigerian wedding rituals: The interplay between bridal identity and liminal gatekeepers’, Marketing Theory, 23:3, pp. 43762, https://doi.org/10.1177/14705931221148514.
    [Google Scholar]
  30. Fahm, Abdulgafar (2015), ‘Ijebu Ode’s Ojude Oba festival: Cultural and spiritual significance’, Sage Open, 5:1, pp. 111, https://doi.org/10.1177/2158244015574640.
    [Google Scholar]
  31. Gurung, Regan, Brickner, Michaella, Leet, Mary and Punke, Elizabeth (2017), ‘Dressing “in code”: Clothing rules, propriety, and perceptions’, The Journal of Social Psychology, 158:5, pp. 55357, https://doi.org/10.1080/00224545.2017.1393383.
    [Google Scholar]
  32. Howell, Luluyetha (2021), ‘Africa fashion: Aso Ebi’, V&A Museum, 8 April, https://www.vam.ac.uk/blog/museum-life/africa-fashion-aso-ebi. Accessed 22 July 2024.
  33. Jungselius, Beata and Weilenmann, Alexandra (2023), ‘Keeping memories alive: A decennial study of social media reminiscing, memories, and nostalgia’, Social Media + Society, 9:4, https://doi.org/10.1177/20563051231207850.
    [Google Scholar]
  34. Kealy-Morris, Elizabeth (2023), ‘“The American Look”: The transformation of women’s sportswear in 1930s and 1940s America’, Fashion, Style & Popular Culture, 12:1–2, pp. 10121, https://doi.org/10.1386/fspc_00208_1.
    [Google Scholar]
  35. Kobaissy, Farah (2022), The Tyranny of Dress Codes: Women’s Narratives of Violcence and Resistance in the Middle East and North Africa, London: Oxfam, https://oi-files-d8-prod.s3.eu-west-2.amazonaws.com/s3fs-public/2022-12/The%20Tyranny%20of%20Dress%20Codes%20Report%20.pdf. Accessed 7 July 2024.
    [Google Scholar]
  36. Lascity, Myles (2021), Communicating Fashion: Clothing, Culture and Media, London: Bloomsbury Visual Arts and Bloomsbury Publishing Plc.
    [Google Scholar]
  37. Lawal, Musediq Olufemi, Akintunde, Temitope Sade and Aliu, Nkechi L., Irhue, Young and Akinrinde, Olawale (2022), ‘Urban realities and politics of owanbe in Nigeria’, Acta Politica Polonica, 53, pp. 5973, https://doi.org/10.18276/ap.2022.53-05.
    [Google Scholar]
  38. Lentz, Carola (1995), ‘Ethnic conflict and changing dress codes: A case study of an Indian migrant village in Highland Ecuador’, in J. B. Eicher (ed.), Dress and Ethnicity, Change across Space and Time, Oxford: Berg, pp. 26994.
    [Google Scholar]
  39. Luo, Weiyu, Xiong, Chenfeng, Wan, Jiajun, Feng, Ziteng, Ayorinde, Olawole, Blanco, Natalia, Charuratt, Man, Naranbhai, Vivek, Riley, Christina, Winters, Anna, Murtala-Ibrahim, Fati and Abimiku, Alash’le (2023), ‘Revealing human mobility trends during the SARS-CoV-2 pandemic in Nigeria via a data-driven approach’, South African Journal of Science, 119:5–6, pp. 19, https://doi.org/10.17159/sajs.2023/14727.
    [Google Scholar]
  40. Mba, Fidelis (2020), ‘Nigeria announces lockdown of major cities to curb coronavirus’, Al Jazeera, 30 March, https://www.aljazeera.com/economy/2020/3/30/nigeria-announces-lockdown-of-major-cities-to-curb-coronavirus. Accessed 7 July 2024.
  41. McGowan, Miriam, Shiu, Edward and Hassan, Louise (2016), ‘The influence of social identity on value perceptions and intention’, Journal of Consumer Behaviour, 16:3, pp. 24253, https://doi.org/10.1002/cb.1627.
    [Google Scholar]
  42. Minneapolis Institute of Art (n.d.), ‘African masks and masquerades’, https://new.artsmia.org/programs/teachers-and-students/teaching-the-arts/five-ideas/african-masks-and-masquerades. Accessed 7 August 2024.
  43. Moodie, Donald W. (1971), ‘Content analysis: A method for historical geography’, Area, 3:3, pp. 14649.
    [Google Scholar]
  44. Ms_asoebi (@Ms_asoebi) (2013), ‘Women’s wonderland’, Instagram, July, https://www.instagram.com/ms_asoebi/. Accessed 22 October 2024.
  45. Murphy, Hannah (2020), ‘How to dress tech bro’, Financial Times, 13 March, https://www.ft.com/content/51cf1792-5955-4135-8b78-7346519c551b. Accessed 11 November 2024.
    [Google Scholar]
  46. Nigeria Centre for Disease Control (NCDC) (2020), Advisory on Use of Cloth Face Masks, Abuja: NCDC, https://nipc.gov.ng/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/use-of-face-masks.pdf. Accessed 7 July 2024.
    [Google Scholar]
  47. Njoku, Raphael Chijioke (2020), West African Masking Traditions and Diaspora Masquerade Carnivals: History, Memory and Transnationalism, Rochester, NY: Boydell & Brewer and University of Rochester Press.
    [Google Scholar]
  48. Nwafor, Okechukwu (2010), ‘Aso Ebi: Fashioning self through photograph and “fashion” magazines in Nigeria’, African Journals Online, 5:1, pp. 136.
    [Google Scholar]
  49. Nwafor, Okechukwu (2021), Aso Ebi: Dress, Fashion, Visual Culture, and Urban Cosmopolitanism in West Africa, Ann Arbor, MI: University of Michigan Press.
    [Google Scholar]
  50. Ogbechie, Rose and Anetor, Friday (2015), ‘The ethics of Aso-Ebi culture in Nigeria’, Journal of Culture, Society and Development, 8, pp. 2734.
    [Google Scholar]
  51. Ogoina, Dimie (2020), ‘COVID-19: The need for rational use of face masks in Nigeria’, The American Journal of Tropical Medicine and Hygiene, 103:1, pp. 3334, https://doi.org/10.4269/ajtmh.20-0433.
    [Google Scholar]
  52. Okondu, Emmanuel, Khadija, Abubakar, Maitanmi, Olatade, Akingbade, Oluwadamilare, Adesuyi, Emmanuel, Olugasa, Babasola, Anyanwu, Chiamaka, Ekezie, Amuche, Ifediora, Loveth, Arulogun, Oyedunni and Okondu, Worlu (2022), ‘Behavioural risk-factors associated with the use of facemask during COVID-19 pandemic lockdown period in Nigeria: Online-based survey’, Student’s Journal of Health Research, 3:12, https://doi.org/10.51168/sjhrafrica.v3i12.221.
    [Google Scholar]
  53. Oladejo, Mutiat Titilope (2022), A History of Textiles and Fashion in the Twentieth Century Yoruba World, Newcastle upon Tyne: Cambridge Scholars Publishing.
    [Google Scholar]
  54. Oladipo, Olowookere Peter (2016), ‘The Yoruba clothing culture, its forms and contents’, Journal of Pristine, 12:1, pp. 12012.
    [Google Scholar]
  55. Olajire, Oluyinka Olutola (2023), ‘Consensus and contentions around “Aso-Ebi” usage among Nigeria’s Yoruba people’, Redeemer’s University Journal of Management and Social Sciences, 6:1, https://runjmss.com/index.php/runojs/article/view/57/31. Accessed 6 August 2024.
    [Google Scholar]
  56. Olanrewaju, Felicia Titilayo (2020), ‘Yoruba proverbs as expression of socio-cultural identity in the South-Western Nigeria’, International Journal of Language and Linguistics, 7:3, pp. 6977, https://doi.org/10.30845/ijll.v7n3p6.
    [Google Scholar]
  57. Olulode, Celestina (2020), ‘Why our Nigerina online wedding suits us just fine’, BBC, 21 July, https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-africa-52958723. Accessed 6 August 2024.
  58. Omogbolagun, Tope (2020), ‘Memories of our digital weddings unforgettable – couples who married via zoom, others’, Punch, 16 August, https://punchng.com/memories-of-our-digital-weddings-unforgettable-couples-who-married-via-zoom-others/. Accessed 7 August 2024.
    [Google Scholar]
  59. Omonisi, Abidemi Emmanuel (2020), ‘How COVID-19 pandemic is changing the Africa’s elaborate burial rites, mourning and grieving’, The Pan African Medical Journal, 35:Suppl 2, p. 81, https://doi.org/10.11604/pamj.supp.2020.35.23756.
    [Google Scholar]
  60. Oyeniyi, Bukola Adeyemi (2015), Dress in the Making of African Identity: A Social and Cultural History of the Yoruba People, New York: Cambria Press.
    [Google Scholar]
  61. Pavlova, Marina, Claus-Christian, Carbon, Coello, Yann, Sokolov, Arseny and Proverbio, Alice (2023), ‘Editorial: Impact of face covering on social cognition and interaction’, Frontiers in Neuroscience, 17, https://doi.org/10.3389/fnins.2023.1150604.
    [Google Scholar]
  62. Rabiu, Iyanda (2016), ‘Proverb as a moderating potency in Yoruba dressing’, Khazar Journal of Humanities and Social Sciences, 19:1, pp. 5769, https://doi.org/10.5782/2223-2621.2016.19.1.57.
    [Google Scholar]
  63. Riffe, Daniel, Lacy, Stephen, Watson, Brendan R. and Lovejoy, Jennette (2023), Analyzing Media Messages Using Quantitative Content Analysis in Research, 12th ed., Milton: Taylor and Francis Group.
    [Google Scholar]
  64. Roach-Higgins, Mary Ellen and Eicher, Joanne B. (1992), ‘Dress and identity’, Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 10:4, pp. 18, https://doi.org/10.1177/0887302X9201000401.
    [Google Scholar]
  65. Rose, Gregory, Shoham, Aviv and Kahle, Lynn (1994), ‘Social values, conformity, and dress’, Journal of Applied Social Psychology, 24:17, pp. 150119.
    [Google Scholar]
  66. Rubinstein, R. (2001), Dress Codes: Meanings and Messages in American Culture, Boulder, CO: Westview.
    [Google Scholar]
  67. Salaudeen, Aisha (2020), ‘Nigerian tailors are hand-making PPE to help fight coronavirus’, CNN, 17 April, https://edition.cnn.com/2020/04/17/africa/hand-made-coronavirus-kits-nigeria-spc/index.html. Accessed 6 August 2024.
  68. Stillman, Yedida and Stillman, Norman (2003), Arab Dress: A Short History: From the Dawn of Islam to Modern Times, Leiden: Brill.
    [Google Scholar]
  69. Tade, Oludayo and Aiyebo, Olusoji (2014), ‘Commodifying the fabric of solidarity: Aso Ebi and dynamics of social relations in Ibadan’, South African Review of Sociology, 45:1, pp. 6682, https://doi.org/10.1080/21528586.2014.887915.
    [Google Scholar]
  70. Tajfel, Henry and Turner, John (1979), ‘An integrative theory of intergroup conflict’, in W. G. Austen and S. Worshel (eds), The Social Psychology of Intergroup Relations, Monterey: Brooks-Cole, pp. 3348.
    [Google Scholar]
  71. ‘traditional’ (2013), Cambridge Advanced Learner’s Dictionary, 4th ed., Cambridge: Cambridge University Press.
    [Google Scholar]
  72. UNESCO (2022), Reshaping Policies for Creativity. Addressing Culture as a Global Public Good, Paris: UNESCO, https://doi.org/10.58337/OILN3726.
    [Google Scholar]
  73. Yasseri, Taha, Gildersleve, Patrick and David, Lea (2022), ‘Collective memory in the digital age’, Progress in Brain Research, 274:1, pp. 20326, https://doi.org/10.1016/bs.pbr.2022.07.001.
    [Google Scholar]
/content/journals/10.1386/fspc_00331_1
Loading
/content/journals/10.1386/fspc_00331_1
Loading

Data & Media loading...

This is a required field
Please enter a valid email address
Approval was a success
Invalid data
An error occurred
Approval was partially successful, following selected items could not be processed due to error
Please enter a valid_number test