Beauty has no age anymore: Fashion and youth in Colombia (1970–99) | Intellect Skip to content
1981
Volume 8, Issue 1
  • ISSN: 2051-7106
  • E-ISSN: 2051-7114

Abstract

This article analyses the cultural construction of youth and beauty as socially dominant values through an interrogation of Colombian fashion magazines produced between 1970 and 1999. To this end, the article analyses the role of fashion and the textile industry – including brands, textile companies and designers – within this key period to understand the transformation of male and female values in the process of establishing youth as an imperative standard for appearance and behaviour. The methodology used is discourse analysis applied to visual and textual advertising published by fashion magazines during the aforementioned period, as a means to understand the ideals and values of fashion and its material culture. This article reveals the tensions between the historical construction of youth in Colombia and the textile and fashion industries, the de-differentiation of youth as a value in men and women, and the paradoxical ambiguity between the ephemeral logic of fashion and the eternal aspiration of youth. These issues have not been adequately explored with regard to Colombia yet.

Loading

Article metrics loading...

/content/journals/10.1386/infs_00037_1
2021-04-01
2024-02-25
Loading full text...

Full text loading...

References

  1. Appadurai, A.. ( 1986;), ‘ Introduction: Commodities and the politics of value. ’, in A. Appadurai. (ed.), The Social Life of Things. Commodities in Cultural Perspective, Cambridge:: Cambridge University Press;, pp. 363.
    [Google Scholar]
  2. Barreiro, A.. ( 1998;), ‘ La moda en las sociedades avanzadas. ’, Papers, 54:1, pp. 12937, https://bit.ly/2O5oyuz. Accessed 9 August 2020.
    [Google Scholar]
  3. Barthes, R.. ( 1985;), ‘ El cuerpo nuevo. ’, Diálogos: Artes, Letras, Ciencias Humanas, 21:3, pp. 37, https://www.jstor.org/stable/27935017?seq=1. Accessed 5 May 2020.
    [Google Scholar]
  4. Bauman, Z.. ( 2007), Consuming Life, Oxford:: Polity Press;.
    [Google Scholar]
  5. Bennet, A.. ( 2007;), ‘ As young as you feel: Young as a discursive construct. ’, in P. Hodkinson, and D. Wolfgang. (eds), Youth Cultures: Scenes, Subcultures and Tribes, London:: Routledge;, pp. 2337.
    [Google Scholar]
  6. Bolin, G.. ( 2004;), ‘ Research on youth and youth cultures. ’, Nordic Journal of Young Research, 13:3, pp. 23743.
    [Google Scholar]
  7. Castro-Gómez, S.. ( 2009), Tejidos oníricos: Movilidad, capitalismo y biopolítica en Bogotá (1910–1930), Bogotá:: Universidad Javeriana;.
    [Google Scholar]
  8. Chmiel, S.. ( 2008;), ‘ El milagro de la eterna juventud. ’, in M. Margulis. (ed.), La juventud es más que una palabra: Ensayos sobre cultura y juventud, Buenos Aires:: Biblos;, pp. 85102.
    [Google Scholar]
  9. Cromos ( 1970;), ‘ Linecream. ’, Cromos, 2734, n.pag.
    [Google Scholar]
  10. Cromos ( 1972a;), ‘ Etiqueta VIP. ’, Cromos, 2837, n.pag.
    [Google Scholar]
  11. Cromos ( 1972b;), ‘ Camisas Arrow. ’, Cromos, 2839, n.pag.
    [Google Scholar]
  12. Cromos ( 1973;), ‘ Corduroy-Seda. ’, Cromos, 2876, n.pag.
    [Google Scholar]
  13. Cromos ( 1984a;), ‘ Margarita Rosa de Francisco: Modelo del año. ’, Cromos, 3484, p. 62.
    [Google Scholar]
  14. Cromos ( 1984b;), ‘ Gloria Trejos Zafa del Folklor. ’, Cromos, 3984, p. 91.
    [Google Scholar]
  15. Cromos ( 1986;), ‘ Silueta chic, femenina y sensual. ’, Cromos, 3584, p. 74.
    [Google Scholar]
  16. Cromos ( 1987;), ‘ Nelly Villegas. ’, Cromos, 3601, p. 60.
    [Google Scholar]
  17. Cromos ( 1990;), ‘ La moda informal. ’, Cromos, 3793, pp. 6061.
    [Google Scholar]
  18. Cromos ( 1994a;), ‘ Especial Jeans. ’, Cromos, 2837, p. 114.
    [Google Scholar]
  19. Cromos ( 1994b;), ‘ Belleza y moda: estos son los jeaneros. ’, Cromos, 3984, p. 112.
    [Google Scholar]
  20. Cruz, W.. ( 2019), Medellín, medio siglo de moda: 1900–1950, Medellín:: Universidad Pontificia Bolivariana;.
    [Google Scholar]
  21. Cubillos, M.. ( 2014;), ‘ Mujeres en el papel: Representaciones de la mujer en el discurso de la moda 1960–1970. ’, Historia y sociedad, 26:1, pp. 20936, https://bit.ly/2LJC9GY. Accessed 7 May 2020.
    [Google Scholar]
  22. Davis, F.. ( 1989;), ‘ Of maid’s uniforms and blue jeans: The drama of status ambivalences in clothing and fashion. ’, Qualitative Sociology, 12:4, pp. 33755, https://bit.ly/3bjCxWD. Accessed 7 May 2020.
    [Google Scholar]
  23. Dunas, S.. (ed.) ( 2001), Adolescencia y juventud en América Latina, Costa Rica:: Libro Universitario Regional;.
    [Google Scholar]
  24. English, B.. ( 2013), A Cultural History of Fashion in the 20th and 21st Centuries: From Catwalk to Sidewalk, London:: Bloomsbury;.
    [Google Scholar]
  25. Entwistle, J.. ( 2015), The Fashioned Body: Fashion, Dress & Modern Social Theory, , 2nd ed.., Cambridge:: Polity Press;.
    [Google Scholar]
  26. Featherstone, M.. ( 1991), Consumer Culture and Posmodernism, London:: Sage Publications;.
    [Google Scholar]
  27. Featherstone, M.. ( 2010;), ‘ Body, image and affect in consumer culture. ’, Body & Society, 16:1, pp. 193221, https://bit.ly/2NgfG4q. Accessed 7 May 2020.
    [Google Scholar]
  28. Feixa, C.. ( 1999), De Jóvenes, bandas y tribus: Antropología de la juventud, Barcelona:: Ariel;.
    [Google Scholar]
  29. Fernández, S.. ( 2008), Historia del diseño en América Latina y el Caribe: Industrialización y comunicación visual para la autonomía, Sao Paulo:: Blücher;.
    [Google Scholar]
  30. Gee, J.. ( 2005), An Introduction to Discourse Analysis, New York:: Routlegde;.
    [Google Scholar]
  31. Hodkinson, P., and Deicke, W.. (eds) ( 2007), Youth Cultures: Scenes, Subcultures and Tribes, New York:: Routledge;.
    [Google Scholar]
  32. Klein, N.. ( 1999), No Logo: Taking Aim at the Brand Bullies, Toronto:: Alfred Knopf;.
    [Google Scholar]
  33. Ley 375 ( 1997;), law 375/97. , El Congreso de Colombia, 4 July, https://bit.ly/3sMaF3S. Accessed 9 September 2020.
  34. Ley 1622 ( 2013;), law 375/97 as modified by law 1622/13. , El Congreso de Colombia, 29 April, https://bit.ly/39QwqXR. Accessed 9 September 2020.
  35. Lipovetsky, G.. ( 1987), L’empire de l’éphémère, Paris:: Gallimard;.
    [Google Scholar]
  36. Margulis, M.. ( 2001;), ‘ Juventud: Una aproximación conceptual. ’, in S. Donas. (ed.), Adolescencia y juventud en América Latina, Cartago:: Libro Universitario Regional;, pp. 4151.
    [Google Scholar]
  37. Margulis, M., and Urresti, M.. ( 1995;), ‘ Moda y Juventud. ’, Estudios Sociológicos de El Colegio de México, 13:37, pp. 10920.
    [Google Scholar]
  38. Mathews, G., and White, B.. (eds) ( 2004), In Japan’s Changing Generations: Are Young People Creating a New Society?, New York:: Routledge;.
    [Google Scholar]
  39. McCracken, A.. ( 2014), The Beauty Trade: Youth, Gender and Fashion Globalization, New York:: Oxford University Press;.
    [Google Scholar]
  40. Miller, D., and Woodward, S.. ( 2012), Blue Jeans: The Art of Ordinary, Berkeley, CA:: University of California Press;.
    [Google Scholar]
  41. Miller, L.. ( 2004;), ‘ Youth fashion and changing beautification practices. ’, in G. Mathews, and B. White. (eds), Japan’s Changing Generations: Are Young People Creating a New Society?, New York:: Routledge;, pp. 8397.
    [Google Scholar]
  42. Moraña, A.. ( 2008;), ‘ La propaganda, la moda y el consumo en la revista Caras y Caretas (Argentina, 1898–1910). ’, Estudios, 16:32, pp. 24973.
    [Google Scholar]
  43. Pedraza, Z.. ( 2012), En cuerpo y alma, visiones del progreso y la felicidad, Bogotá:: Ediciones Uniandes;.
    [Google Scholar]
  44. Peña, C.. ( 2009), Proyecto libre: Entre la historia y el diseño, Bogotá:: Ediciones Uniandes;.
    [Google Scholar]
  45. Pérez, I.. ( 2017;), ‘ Consumo y género: Una revisión de la producción historiográfica reciente sobre América Latina en el siglo XX. ’, Historia Crítica, 65:1, pp. 2948, https://bit.ly/2XX8xbz. Accessed 7 May 2020.
    [Google Scholar]
  46. Rocamora, A.. ( 2009), Fashioning the City: Paris, Fashion and the Media, New York:: I. B. Tauris;.
    [Google Scholar]
  47. Saa, M.. ( 2014;), ‘ Jóvenes delgadas, bellas y blancas: La producción del cuerpo juvenil en la publicidad. El caso de revista margarita (1930–1940). ’, Última década, 22:41, pp. 7187, https://bit.ly/3c0EdFg. Accessed 9 September 2020.
    [Google Scholar]
  48. Semana ( 1996;), ‘ Ultratone. ’, Semana, 736, n.pag.
    [Google Scholar]
  49. Semana Moda ( 1992;), ‘ Agencia de modelaje. ’, Semana Moda, 7, p. 22.
    [Google Scholar]
  50. Semana Moda ( 1996;), ‘ Publicidad sastres para hombres. ’, Semana Moda, 73, p. 131.
    [Google Scholar]
  51. Solomon, M.. ( 1986;), ‘ Deep-seated materialism: The case of Levi’s 501 jeans. ’, Advances in Consumer Research, 13:1, pp. 61922.
    [Google Scholar]
  52. Steele, V.. ( 1997;), ‘ Anti-fashion: The 1970s. ’, Fashion Theory, 1:3, pp. 27995.
    [Google Scholar]
  53. Wallerstein, K., and Mansour, M.. ( 1999;), ‘ La delgadez y otras negaciones en la publicidad de la moda contemporánea. ’, Debate Feminista, 19:1, pp. 16792, https://bit.ly/3edlSWr. Accessed 1 March 2021.
    [Google Scholar]
  54. Zambrano, F.. ( 2002;), ‘ De las Atenas Suramericana a la Bogotá moderna: La construcción de la cultura ciudadana en Bogotá. ’, Revista de Estudios Sociales, 11:1, pp. 916.
    [Google Scholar]
  55. Salazar, Edward. ( 2021;), ‘ Beauty has no age anymore: Fashion and youth in Colombia (1970–99). ’, International Journal of Fashion Studies, 8:1, pp. 6784, doi: https://doi.org/10.1386/infs_00037_1
    [Google Scholar]
http://instance.metastore.ingenta.com/content/journals/10.1386/infs_00037_1
Loading
  • Article Type: Article
Keyword(s): advertising; Colombia; fashion; slimness; textiles; youth
This is a required field
Please enter a valid email address
Approval was a success
Invalid data
An error occurred
Approval was partially successful, following selected items could not be processed due to error