Skip to content
1981
Volume 12, Issue 1
  • ISSN: 2051-7106
  • E-ISSN: 2051-7114

Abstract

In this article, we reflect on fast fashion and see-now-buy-now. The first has its origin in mass fashion and proposes the acceleration of the speed of collection launches. The second emerged in the luxury market and consists of selling products during or right after the collection shows. Starting from these strategies, we present a theoretical reflection on the imperative of self-expansion and expanded reproduction of capital. The aim of this work is to show that it is this necessity, and not the consumers’ desires, that motivates the increase in the speed of production and commercialization of goods – and why business models like fast fashion and see-now-buy-now emerge. We develop our argument based on the concepts elaborated by Karl Marx, as we consider historical materialism gives us grounds to understand the stimulus of accelerated fashion consumption as a consequence of demands from the sphere of production. Thus, we demonstrate how fast fashion works to increase capital turnover. Next, we reflect on aesthetic innovation and ‘lifestyles’ as tools for accelerating consumption. We address the influences of this dynamic on the luxury market, on the emergence of see-now-buy-now and on inventories formation. Finally, we provide an overview of fashion consumption in Brazil.

Funding
This study was supported by the:
  • FAPERJ (Fundação de Amparo à Pesquisa do Estado do Rio de Janeiro – Rio de Janeiro State Research Foundation)
  • ARC-2019 Program (Aid to Newly Hired Researchers) (Award 010.002605/2019)
Loading

Article metrics loading...

/content/journals/10.1386/infs_00122_1
2025-04-04
2025-05-22
Loading full text...

Full text loading...

References

  1. Aristóteles (2006), Política, São Paulo: Martin Claret.
    [Google Scholar]
  2. Besser, R. (2021), ‘See now, buy now: All the New York fashion wares you can already shop’, Vogue Business, 21 September, https://www.vogue.com/article/see-now-buy-now-spring-2022. Accessed 17 July 2023.
  3. Boardman, R., Haschka, Y., Chrimes, C. and Alexander, B. (2020), ‘Fashion “see-now-buy-now”: Implications and process adaptations’, Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, 24:3, pp. 49515, https://doi.org/10.1108/JFMM-08-2019-0180.
    [Google Scholar]
  4. Brooks, A. (2015), Clothing Poverty: The Hidden World of Fast Fashion and Second-Hand Clothes, London: Zed Books.
    [Google Scholar]
  5. Brun, A., Castelli, C. and Karaosman, H. (2017), ‘See now buy now: A revolution for luxury supply chain management’, in R. Rinaldi and R. Bandinelli (eds), Business Models and ICT Technologies for the Fashion Supply Chain, Lecture Notes in Electrical Engineering, Cham and New York: Springer, 413, pp. 3346.
    [Google Scholar]
  6. Chacon, G. P. and Swinney, R. (2011), ‘The value of fast fashion: Quick response, enhanced design, and strategic consumer behaviour’, Management Science, 57:4, pp. 77895, https://doi.org/10.1287/mnsc.1100.1303.
    [Google Scholar]
  7. Cietta, E. (2010), A revolução do fast fashion: estratégias e modelos organizados para competir nas indústrias híbridas, São Paulo: Estação das Letras e Cores.
    [Google Scholar]
  8. Cietta, E. (2017), A economia da moda: porque hoje um bom modelo de negócios vale mais do que uma boa coleção, São Paulo: Estação das Letras e Cores.
    [Google Scholar]
  9. Contino, J. M. and Rosa Junior, J. D. (2018), ‘See now, buy now e fast fashion: apontamentos sobre a produção e comercialização de vestuário’, in Anais 14° Colóquio de moda, Curitiba: ABEPEM.
    [Google Scholar]
  10. Cope, J. and Maloney, D. (2016), Fashion Promotion in Practice, London: Fairchild Books, Bloomsbury Publishing, PLC.
    [Google Scholar]
  11. Cunha, R. (2015), ‘O fast fashion está obsoleto: diz pesquisadora de tendências Li Edelkoort’, Stylo Urbano, 2 May, https://www.stylourbano.com.br/o-fast-fashion-esta-obsoleto-diz-pesquisadora-de-tendencias-li-edelkoort/. Accessed 17 July 2023.
  12. Deslandes, M. (2018), ‘H&M enfrenta problema de acumulação de inventário’, Fashion Network, 3 November, https://br.fashionnetwork.com/news/H-M-enfrenta-problema-de-acumulacao-de-inventario,963921.html#.XEs9flxKjIU. Accessed 17 July 2023.
  13. Featherstone, M. (1995), Cultura de Consumo e Pós-Modernismo, São Paulo: Studio Nobel.
    [Google Scholar]
  14. FFW, Dezon (2023), O consumo de fast fashion no Brasil, São Paulo: Dezon.
    [Google Scholar]
  15. Guimarães, F. M. (2019), ‘O mundo pós-fast fashion: para onde caminha o consumo de moda global’, Marie Claire, 22 November, https://revistamarieclaire.globo.com/Moda/noticia/2019/11/o-mundo-pos-fast-fashion-para-onde-caminha-o-consumo-de-moda-global.html. Accessed 17 July 2023.
    [Google Scholar]
  16. Hambury, M. (2018), ‘Zara and Forever 21 have a dirty little secret’, Business Insider, 6 March, https://www.businessinsider.com/zara-forever-21-fast-fashion-full-of-copycats-2018-3. Accessed 17 July 2023.
  17. Haug, W. F. (1997), Crítica da Estética da Mercadoria, São Paulo: UNESP.
    [Google Scholar]
  18. Hoang, L. (2021), ‘Luxury takes another step in the evolution of see now, buy now’, Luxury Society, 13 September, https://www.luxurysociety.com/en/articles/2021/09/luxury-takes-another-step-evolution-see-now-buy-now. Accessed 17 July 2023.
  19. Hoskins, T. E. (2014), Stitched Up: The Anti-Capitalist Book of Fashion, London: Pluto Press.
    [Google Scholar]
  20. Huxam, C. (1996), Creating Collaborative Advantage, London: Sage.
    [Google Scholar]
  21. Hyland, V. (2017), ‘Is see-now-buy-now just a trend, or the future of fashion?’, The Cut, 27 March, https://www.thecut.com/2017/03/see-now-buy-now-fashion-effectiveness.html. Accessed 17 July 2023.
  22. IEMI (2023), Brasil Têxtil 2023, São Paulo: IEMI.
    [Google Scholar]
  23. Jameson, F. (1997), Pós-modernismo: a lógica cultural do capitalismo tardio, São Paulo: Ática.
    [Google Scholar]
  24. Mandel, E. (1982), O Capitalismo Tardio, São Paulo: Abril Cultural.
    [Google Scholar]
  25. Mariotti, A. and Yahn, C. (2016), ‘Entenda a mudança de calendário que irá transformar o sistema da moda’, Fashion Forward, 15 February, http://ffw.uol.com.br/blog/business/entenda-a-mudanca-de-calendario-que-ira-transformar-o-sistema-de-moda/. Accessed 17 July 2023.
  26. Marx, K. (2011), Grundrisse: Manuscritos Econômicos de 1857–1858: Esboços da Crítica da Economia Política, São Paulo and Rio de Janeiro: Boitempo and UFRJ.
    [Google Scholar]
  27. Marx, K. (2013), O capital: Crítica da Economia Política: Livro I: o Processo de Produção do Capital, São Paulo: Boitempo.
    [Google Scholar]
  28. Marx, K. (2014), O capital: Crítica da Economia Política: Livro II: o Processo de Circulação de Capital, São Paulo: Boitempo.
    [Google Scholar]
  29. Marx, K. (2017), O capital: Crítica da Economia Política: Livro III: o Processo Global da Produção Capitalista, São Paulo: Boitempo.
    [Google Scholar]
  30. Mesquita, G. (2021), ‘Como pequenas, médias e grandes marcas estão enfrentando a pandemia’, Elle Brasil, 23 June, https://elle.com.br/moda/como-pequenas-medias-e-grandes-marcas-estao-enfrentando-a-pandemia. Accessed 17 July 2023.
    [Google Scholar]
  31. Mészáros, I. (2011), Para Além do Capital: Rumo a uma Teoria da Transição, São Paulo: Boitempo.
    [Google Scholar]
  32. Morris, B. (2018), ‘Marca de luxo Burberry queima roupas, perfumes e acessórios no valor de R$141 milhões’, BBC, 20 July, https://www.bbc.com/portuguese/internacional-44905496. Accessed 17 July 2023.
  33. Posner, H. (2015), Marketing Fashion: Strategy, Branding and Promotion, London: Laurence King Publishing.
    [Google Scholar]
  34. Purchio, L. (2020), ‘O luxo não é lixo’, IstoÉ, 31 January, https://istoe.com.br/o-luxo-nao-e-lixo/. Accessed 17 July 2022.
    [Google Scholar]
  35. Rocamora, A. (2013), ‘New fashion times: Fashion and digital media’, in S. Black, J. Entwistle, A. de la Haye, A. Rocamora, R. Root and H. Thomas (eds), The Handbook of Fashion Studies, London: Bloomsbury, pp. 6177.
    [Google Scholar]
  36. SEBRAE (2022), Painel de Inteligência Setorial: Indústria da Moda, São Paulo: SEBRAE, https://sebrae.com.br/Sebrae/Portal%20Sebrae/UFs/ES/P%C3%A1ginas/Pain%C3%A9is%20Setoriais/Paineis%20novos/Painel-Setorial-Moda.pdf. Accessed 24 May 2024.
    [Google Scholar]
  37. Setti, A. (2024), ‘Shein já fatura mais de R$15 bilhões por ano no Brasil, calcula BTG Pactual’, O Globo, 23 April, https://oglobo.globo.com/blogs/capital/post/2024/04/shein-ja-fatura-mais-de-r-15-bilhoes-por-ano-no-brasil-calcula-o-btg.ghtml. Accessed 24 May 2024.
    [Google Scholar]
  38. Shen, B., Xu, X. and Yuan, Q. (2023), ‘Demand learning through social media exposure in the luxury fashion industry: See now buy now versus see now buy later’, IEEE Transactions on Engineering Management, 70:4, pp. 1295311, http://doi.org/10.1109/TEM.2020.3009742.
    [Google Scholar]
  39. Sotocórno, V. (2018), ‘Por que o “see now, buy now” não deu certo para todo mundo?’, Vogue Brasil, 24 April, https://vogue.globo.com/moda/noticia/2018/04/por-que-o-see-now-buy-now-nao-deu-certo-para-todo-mundo.ghtml. Accessed 24 May 2024.
    [Google Scholar]
  40. Uchańska-Bieniusiewicz, A. and Obłój, K. (2023), ‘Disrupting fast fashion: A case study of Shein’s innovative business model’, International Entrepreneurship Review, 9:3, pp. 4759, https://doi.org/10.15678/IER.2023.0903.03.
    [Google Scholar]
/content/journals/10.1386/infs_00122_1
Loading
This is a required field
Please enter a valid email address
Approval was a success
Invalid data
An error occurred
Approval was partially successful, following selected items could not be processed due to error
Please enter a valid_number test