Costumographic synergy: Devising the costume performance | Intellect Skip to content
1981
Volume 7, Issue 1
  • ISSN: 2052-4013
  • E-ISSN: 2052-4021

Abstract

This research report presents an emergent methodological framework for devising costume performance that offers best practice to the collaborating designer, choreographer and performer. Two distinct practical research case studies, costume performance project (2016) and costume research project , are examined to answer the question: what is an effective working methodology for designing and devising costume performance that creates a synergy between costume/materials and the moving body, and consequently design and choreography? The case study research methods include practical experimentation and devising leading to performances, and experiential findings. Research outcomes are contextualized in relation to Tim Ingold’s theories of (active) materials, Jane Bennett’s concept of assemblages, collaborative devising processes used in dance making, embodiment and somatics and intentionality and authorship in collective making. This investigation is predominantly discussed from the perspective of the experienced and experiential costume performer – choreographer: the ‘embodied subject’ who merges with the costume/materials bringing a unique analysis to the costume and performance research field that is significant to designers, performers, performance makers and scholars. The findings of this report offer practitioners a framework to develop an impactful working approach for the devising of costume performance, as well as other performance where costume is (or could be) an integral part of the work.

Loading

Article metrics loading...

/content/journals/10.1386/scp_00062_1
2022-05-01
2024-04-24
Loading full text...

Full text loading...

References

  1. Bågander, Linnea. ( 2020;), ‘ Cuttlefish: Performing body. ’, Studies in Costume & Performance, 5:2, pp. 25571.
    [Google Scholar]
  2. Barad, Karen Michelle. ( 2007), Meeting the Universe Halfway: Quantum Physics and the Entanglement of Matter and Meaning, Durham, NC:: Duke University Press;.
    [Google Scholar]
  3. Barbieri, Donatella. ( 2007;), ‘ Proposing an interdisciplinary, movement-based approach to teaching and learning as applied to design for performance related areas. ’, working paper, Prague Quadrennial 11th International Competitive Exhibition of Scenography and Theatre Architecture, Prague, London College of Fashion, London, UK, 14–24 June.
    [Google Scholar]
  4. Barbieri, Donatella. ( 2012;), ‘ Costume re-considered. ’, Endymatologika, 4, Endyesthai (to dress): Historical, Sociological and Methodological Approaches, Athens, Greece, 9–11 April 2010, Athens:: Peloponnesian Folklore Foundation;, pp. 14752.
    [Google Scholar]
  5. Barbieri, Donatella. ( 2017), Costume in Performance: Materiality, Culture, and the Body, London:: Bloomsbury Publishing;.
    [Google Scholar]
  6. Barbour, Karen. ( 2008;), ‘ Sustainable dance making: Dancers and choreographers in collaboration. ’, BROLGA, 28, pp. 4151.
    [Google Scholar]
  7. Bennett, Jane. ( 2010), Vibrant Matter: A Political Ecology of Things, Durham, NC and London:: Duke University Press;.
    [Google Scholar]
  8. Butterworth, Jo. ( 2009;), ‘ Too many cooks? A framework for dance making and devising. ’, in J. Butterworth, and L. Wildschut. (eds), Contemporary Choreography: A Critical Reader, New York:: Routledge;, pp. 89106.
    [Google Scholar]
  9. Crickmay, Chris. ( 2015;), ‘ Light–dark–light–heavy: Reflections on an art–dance collaboration. ’, Journal of Dance & Somatic Practices, 7:1, pp. 14354.
    [Google Scholar]
  10. Dean, Sally E.. ( 2016;), ‘ Where is the body in the costume design process?. ’, Studies in Costume & Performance, 1:1, pp. 97111.
    [Google Scholar]
  11. Fischer-Lichte, Erika. ( 2013;), ‘ Review essay: The transformative aesthetics of the Gesamtkunstwerk/total work of art as the specter haunting modernism. ’, Theatre Journal, 65:4, pp. 593603.
    [Google Scholar]
  12. Hammond, Abigail. ( 2019;), ‘ Evolving methodology: Designing costumes for Jasmin Vardimon’s immersive work Maze. ’, Studies in Costume & Performance, 4:2, pp. 24363.
    [Google Scholar]
  13. Heddon, Deirdre, and Milling, Jane. ( 2006), Devising Performance: A Critical History, Basingstoke:: Palgrave Macmillan;.
    [Google Scholar]
  14. Heselton, Peter,, O'Donnell, Annie, and Smith, Lorraine. ( 2016), Elizabeth & The Three Sisters, Night Fall, Centre Square Middlesbrough;, 14 October.
    [Google Scholar]
  15. Ingold, Tim. ( 2007;), ‘ Materials against materiality. ’, Archaeological Dialogues, 14:1, pp. 116.
    [Google Scholar]
  16. Ingold, Tim. ( 2010;), ‘ Bringing things to life: Creative entanglements in a world of materials. ’, working paper #15, Manchester:: University of Manchester;, https://hummedia.manchester.ac.uk/schools/soss/morgancentre/research/wps/15-2010-07-realities-bringing-things-to-life.pdf. Accessed 4 May 2021.
    [Google Scholar]
  17. Ingold, Tim. ( 2011), Being Alive: Essays on Movement, Knowledge and Description, London and New York:: Taylor and Francis;.
    [Google Scholar]
  18. Karstens, Daphne, and Smith, Lorraine. ( 2019), SESSIONS #1–4, The Netherlands:: Broedplaats LELY;.
    [Google Scholar]
  19. Karstens, Daphne, and Smith, Lorraine. ( 2020;), ‘ Flash talk video “the material directs”, a reflection on the visual costume research project SESSIONS. ’, Critical Costume 2020: Costume Agency, online video archive, https://costumeagency.com/project/daphne-karstens-lorraine-smith/. Accessed 4 May 2021.
    [Google Scholar]
  20. Lane, Kate. ( 2019;), ‘ Trinity: Visual dramaturgy, the body as scenographer and author. ’, Studies in Costume & Performance, 4:2, pp. 20728.
    [Google Scholar]
  21. Larsen, Ulrik Martin. ( 2016;), ‘ Dressing wearing: Movement directed by dress, dress directed by movement. ’, Ph.D. thesis, Borås:: Högskolan i Borås;.
    [Google Scholar]
  22. Lecoq, Jacques. ( 2020;), ‘ LEM: Presentation. ’, Ecole internationale de théâtre Jacques Lecoq, http://www.ecole-jacqueslecoq.com/lem-presentation/?lang=en. Accessed 2 February 2022.
    [Google Scholar]
  23. Man, Michelle, and Summerlin, Dawn. ( 2016;), ‘ Porcelain moves: When costume choreographs and perceptive fragility. ’, CFP: Costume and Fashion in Context and Practice, University of Huddersfield, UK, 5–6 December.
    [Google Scholar]
  24. Marres, Noortje. ( 2005;), ‘ Issues spark a public into being: A key but often forgotten point of the Lippmann–Dewey debate. ’, in B. Latour, and P. Weibel. (eds), Making Things Public, Cambridge, MA:: MIT Press;, pp. 20817.
    [Google Scholar]
  25. Mitra, Royona. ( 2015;), ‘ Authorship, physical theatre and Justitia. ’, in P. Johnson, and S. Dobkowska. (eds), Justitia: Multidisciplinary Readings of the Work of Jasmin Vardimon Company, Bristol:: Intellect Books;, pp. 14354.
    [Google Scholar]
  26. Monks, Aoife. ( 2010), The Actor in Costume, Basingstoke:: Palgrave Macmillan;.
    [Google Scholar]
  27. Monks, Aoife. ( 2013;), ‘ Costuming the Shakespearean Stage: Visual Codes of Representation in Early Modern Theatre and Culture: Review. ’, review, Theatre Notebook, 67:1, pp. 5961.
    [Google Scholar]
  28. Mylona, Stefania. ( 2021;), ‘ Total dance: Examining interdisciplinarity in/through dance. ’, Creative Arts in Education and Therapy, 7:2, pp. 18799.
    [Google Scholar]
  29. Papastergiadis, Nikos. ( 2012;), ‘ The ethics of collaboration. ’, in C. Green. (ed.), 2004: Australian Culture Now, Melbourne:: National Gallery of Victoria;, pp. 5761, https://issuu.com/capelan/docs/the_ethics_of_collaboration_nikos_onlyyou. Accessed 18 December 2020.
    [Google Scholar]
  30. Pollatsek, Shura E., and Wilson, Mitchell D.. ( 2021), Costume in Motion: A Guide to Collaboration for Costume Design and Choreography, New York:: Routledge;.
    [Google Scholar]
  31. Smith, Lorraine. ( 2018;), ‘ The costumographer: Revolutions in performance pedagogy. ’, Studies in Costume & Performance, 3:2, pp. 17996.
    [Google Scholar]
  32. Smith, Lorraine. ( 2020;), ‘ Who is choreographing the costume performance? A discussion on shared agency. ’, Critical Costume 2020: Costume Agency, video archive, https://costumeagency.com/project/lorraine-smith/. Accessed 4 May 2021.
    [Google Scholar]
  33. Summerlin, Dawn. ( 2019;), ‘ Perceptive fragility: Movement and porcelain. ’, Studies in Costume & Performance, 4:1, pp. 10919.
    [Google Scholar]
  34. Tahko, Tuuli. ( 2016), Making Sense of Dance-Making: Interaction and Organisation in Contemporary Choreographic Processes, London:: University of Roehampton;.
    [Google Scholar]
  35. Trimingham, Melissa. ( 2017;), ‘ Agency and empathy: Artists touch the body. ’, in D. Barbieri. (ed.), Costume in Performance: Materiality, Culture, and the Body, London:: Bloomsbury Publishing;, pp. 16493.
    [Google Scholar]
  36. Smith, Lorraine. ( 2022;), ‘ Costumographic synergy: Devising the costume performance. ’, Studies in Costume & Performance, 7:1, pp. 85108, https://doi.org/10.1386/scp_00062_1
    [Google Scholar]
http://instance.metastore.ingenta.com/content/journals/10.1386/scp_00062_1
Loading
/content/journals/10.1386/scp_00062_1
Loading

Data & Media loading...

This is a required field
Please enter a valid email address
Approval was a success
Invalid data
An error occurred
Approval was partially successful, following selected items could not be processed due to error