Skip to content
1981
Volume 4, Issue 1
  • ISSN: 2754-026X
  • E-ISSN: 2754-0278

Abstract

This article examines the fashion trend system in the context of sustainability. It investigates consumer viewpoints which bring new perspectives on the manifestations of trends and their impact on sustainability. Previous research on the trend cycle has tended to focus on how the cycle begins and ends, with an emphasis on short-lived trends, and has not focused on consumer perceptions. In contrast, this article presents new research that evidences how fast fashion can have longevity beyond trends, by focusing on the experience of wear. This draws out a deeper understanding of the impacts of trends on consumer behaviour in the context of fast fashion, where the trend cycle moves quickly. In particular, the research has revealed that it is important to consider the lives of the individual consumer and their behaviour in relation to challenging existing assumptions that trends are inherently short lived. Primary research data, realized through a series of wardrobe studies, show how a selection of young fashion consumers are behaving with regard to fast fashion. Unexpected results show how many participants owned fast fashion clothing that lasted longer than anticipated, with surprising durability. In addition, fast fashion can, just like other garments, be subject to emotional attachment. Fostering deep attachments to clothing offers opportunities to extend the use time of garments. The historic workings of the trend system have initiated a fastness to fashion that this research has sought to challenge.1

© 2025 Intellect Ltd
Loading

Article metrics loading...

/content/journals/10.1386/sft_00058_1
2025-05-23
2026-04-14

Metrics

Loading full text...

Full text loading...

References

  1. Arnett, J. (2000), ‘Emerging adulthood: A theory of development from the late teens through the twenties’, American Psychologist, 55:5, pp. 469–80, https://doi.org/10.1037/0003-066X.55.5.469.
     [Google Scholar]
  2. Berger-Grabner, D. (2018), ‘Sustainability in fashion: An oxymoron?’, in R. René Schmidpeter and S. O. Idowu (eds), CSR, Sustainability, Ethics and Governance, Berlin: Springer Nature, pp. 171–80, https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93629-1_9.
     [Google Scholar]
  3. Bide, B. (2017), ‘Signs of wear: Encountering memory in the worn materiality of a museum fashion collection’, Fashion Theory: The Journal of Dress, Body and Culture, 21:4, pp. 449–76, https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704X.2017.1290204.
     [Google Scholar]
  4. Black, S. (2019), ‘Sustainability and digitalisation’, in V. Karaminas and A. Geczy (eds), The End of Fashion: Clothing and Dress in the Age of Globalisation, London: Bloomsbury, pp. 113–31.
     [Google Scholar]
  5. Bloodhart, B. and Swim, J. K. (2020), ‘Sustainability and consumption: What’s gender got to do with it?’, Journal of Social Issues, 76:1, pp. 101–13, https://doi.org/10.1111/josi.12370.
     [Google Scholar]
  6. Braun, V. and Clarke, V. (2006), ‘Using thematic analysis in psychology’, Qualitative Research in Psychology, 3:2, pp. 77–101, https://doi.org/10.1191/1478088706qp063oa.
     [Google Scholar]
  7. Butler, S. (2019), ‘Bras for £2, pyjamas for £5 … how low, low prices keep Primark tills ringing’, The Guardian, 9 November, https://www.theguardian.com/business/2019/nov/09/primark-fast-fashion-retail-low-prices-sustainable. Accessed 19 June 2024.
     [Google Scholar]
  8. Cairns, H. M., Ritch, E. L. and Bereziat, C. (2021), ‘Think eco, be eco? The tension between attitudes and behaviours of millennial fashion consumers’, International Journal of Consumer Studies, May, pp. 1–16, https://doi.org/10.1111/ijcs.12756.
     [Google Scholar]
  9. Candlin, F. and Guins, R. (2009), The Object Reader, Abingdon: Routledge.
     [Google Scholar]
  10. Chapman, J. (2005), Emotionally Durable Design: Objects, Experiences and Empathy, London: Routledge.
     [Google Scholar]
  11. Clark, H. (2008), ‘SLOW + FASHION – an oxymoron – or a promise for the future …?’, Fashion Theory: The Journal of Dress, Body and Culture, 12:4, pp. 427–46, https://doi.org/10.2752/175174108X346922.
     [Google Scholar]
  12. Cline, E. (2013), Overdressed: The Shockingly High Cost of Cheap Fashion, New York: Portfolio and Penguin.
     [Google Scholar]
  13. Darden, D. and Worden, S. (1991), ‘Identity announcement in mass society: The T-shirt’, Sociological Spectrum, 11:1, pp. 67–79, https://doi.org/10.1080/02732173.1991.9981954.
     [Google Scholar]
  14. Davis, F. (1994), Fashion, Culture and Identity, London: Chicago University Press.
     [Google Scholar]
  15. Divita, L. (2019), Fashion Forecasting, 5th ed., London: Bloomsbury.
     [Google Scholar]
  16. Dobers, P. and Strannegård, L. (2005), ‘Design, lifestyles and sustainability: Aesthetic consumption in a world of abundance’, Business Strategy and the Environment, 14:5, pp. 324–36, https://doi.org/10.1002/bse.495.
     [Google Scholar]
  17. Easey, M. (2009), Fashion Marketing, 3rd ed., Oxford: Blackwell Publishing.
     [Google Scholar]
  18. Etherington, K. (2004), Becoming a Reflexive Researcher: Using Ourselves in Research, London: Jessica Kingsley Publishers.
     [Google Scholar]
  19. Eundeok, K. (2011), Fashion Trends: Analysis and Forecasting, Oxford: Berg.
     [Google Scholar]
  20. Fletcher, K. (2016), Craft of Use: Post-Growth Fashion, London: Routledge.
     [Google Scholar]
  21. Fletcher, K. and Grimstad Klepp, I. (2017), Opening Up the Wardrobe: A Methods Book, Oslo: Novis.
     [Google Scholar]
  22. Furlong, A. (2016), Routledge Handbook of Youth and Young Adulthood, 2nd ed., London: Routledge.
     [Google Scholar]
  23. Gilliland, N. (2019), ‘Four factors fuelling the growth of fast fashion retailers’, Econsultancy, 9 April, https://econsultancy.com/four-factors-fuelling-the-growth-of-fast-fashion-retailers/. Accessed 18 December 2019.
  24. Goncu-Berk, G. (2015), Fashion Trends, London: Bloomsbury Academic, http://dx.doi.org/10.2752/9781474280655-BIBART12001-ED.
     [Google Scholar]
  25. Grant, K. (2018), ‘Instagram users are buying clothes to wear only once for #ootd photos’, i News, 15 August, https://inews.co.uk/news/consumer/instagram-shoppers-buy-clothes-wear-once-ootd-picture-return-186572. Accessed 1 March 2023.
  26. Grimstad Klepp, I. and Bjerck, M. (2014), ‘A methodological approach to the materiality of clothing: Wardrobe studies’, International Journal of Social Research Methodology, 17:4, pp. 373–86, https://doi.org/10.1080/13645579.2012.737148.
     [Google Scholar]
  27. Hammersly, M. and Atkinson, P. (2007), Ethnography: Principles in Practice, 3rd ed., London: Routledge.
     [Google Scholar]
  28. Joy, A., Sherry, John F., Venkatesh, A., Wang, J. and Chan, R. (2012), ‘Fast fashion, sustainability, and the ethical appeal of luxury brands’, Fashion Theory: The Journal of Dress, Body and Culture, 16:3, pp. 273–95, https://doi.org/10.2752/175174112x13340749707123.
     [Google Scholar]
  29. Kellett, S. and Holden, K. (2013), ‘Emotional Attachment to Objects in Hoarding: A Critical Review of the Evidence’, in R. O. Frost and G. Steketee (eds), The Oxford Handbook of Hoarding and Acquiring, Oxford and New York: Oxford University Press, pp. 120–36.
     [Google Scholar]
  30. Manley, A., Seock, Y. K. and Shin, J. (2023), ‘Exploring the perceptions and motivations of Gen Z and Millennials toward sustainable clothing’, Family and Consumer Sciences Research Journal, 51:4, pp. 313–27, https://doi.org/10.1111/fcsr.12475.
     [Google Scholar]
  31. Marriot, E. and Clayton, W. (2006), ‘Fashion and sustainability’, in S. Walker (ed.), Sustainable by Design: Explorations in Theory and Practice, London: Routledge, pp. 71–77.
     [Google Scholar]
  32. Marroncelli, R. (2024), ‘The emotional durability of fast fashion: Male and female perspectives’, Ph.D. thesis, Nottingham: Nottingham Trent University.
     [Google Scholar]
  33. Marroncelli, R. and Braithwaite, N. (2020), ‘#insta-fashion: How the digital revolution has affected celebrity culture and the British fashion retail landscape’, Fashion Practice, 14:1, pp. 1–27, https://doi.org/10.1080/17569370.2020.1794321.
     [Google Scholar]
  34. McNeill, L. and Moore, R. (2015), ‘Sustainable fashion consumption and the fast fashion conundrum: Fashionable consumers and attitudes to sustainability in clothing choice’, International Journal of Consumer Studies, 39:3, pp. 212–22, https://doi.org/10.1111/ijcs.12169.
     [Google Scholar]
  35. McNeill, L. S., Hamlin, R. P., McQueen, R. H., Degenstein, L., Garrett, T. C., Dunn, L. and Wakes, S. (2020), ‘Fashion sensitive young consumers and fashion garment repair: Emotional connections to garments as a sustainability strategy’, International Journal of Consumer Studies, 44:4, pp. 361–68, https://doi.org/10.1111/ijcs.12572.
     [Google Scholar]
  36. Miles, S., Cliff, D. and Burr, V. (1998), ‘“Fitting in and sticking out”: Consumption, consumer meanings and the construction of young people’s identities’, Journal of Youth Studies, 1:1, pp. 81–96, https://doi.org/10.1080/13676261.1998.10592996.
     [Google Scholar]
  37. Miller, D. and Kuchler, S. (2005), Clothing as Material Culture, Oxford: Berg.
     [Google Scholar]
  38. Moorhouse, D. and Moorhouse, D. (2017), ‘The design journal an international journal for all aspects of design sustainable design: Circular economy in fashion and textiles sustainable design: Circular economy in fashion and textiles’, The Design Journal, 20, pp. 12–14, https://doi.org/10.1080/14606925.2017.1352713.
     [Google Scholar]
  39. Nash, J. (2019), ‘Exploring how social media platforms influence fashion consumer decisions in the UK retail sector’, Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, 23:1, pp. 82–103, https://doi.org/10.1108/JFMM-01-2018-0012.
     [Google Scholar]
  40. Neto, A. and Ferreira, J. (2023), ‘Lasting bonds: Understanding wearer–clothing relationships through interpersonal love-theory’, Fashion Theory: Journal of Dress Body and Culture, 27:5, pp. 677–707, https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704X.2023.2170706.
     [Google Scholar]
  41. Niinimaki, K. (2018), ‘Knowing better, but behaving emotionally’, in M. Heuer and C. Becker-Leifhold (eds), Eco-Friendly and Fair: Fast Fashion and Consumer Behaviour, New York: Routledge, pp. 49–57.
     [Google Scholar]
  42. Niinimäki, K., Peters, G., Dahlbo, H., Perry, P., Rissanen, T. and Gwilt, A. (2020), ‘The environmental price of fast fashion’, Nature Reviews Earth and Environment, 1:4, pp. 189–200, https://doi.org/10.1038/s43017-020-0039-9.
     [Google Scholar]
  43. Niinimäki, K. and Armstrong, C. (2013), ‘From pleasure in use to preservation of meaningful memories: A closer look at the sustainability of clothing via longevity and attachment’, International Journal of Fashion Design, 6:3, pp. 190–99, https://doi.org/10.1080/17543266.2013.825737.
     [Google Scholar]
  44. Norman, D. (2007), Emotional Design: Why We Love (or Hate) Everyday Things, New York: Basic Books.
     [Google Scholar]
  45. Ozdamar Ertekin, Z. and Atik, D. (2015), ‘Sustainable markets: Motivating factors, barriers, and remedies for mobilization of slow fashion’, Journal of Macromarketing, 35:1, pp. 53–69, https://doi.org/10.1177/0276146714535932.
     [Google Scholar]
  46. Piacentini, M. and Mailer, G. (2004), ‘Symbolic consumption in teenagers’ clothing choices’, Journal of Consumer Behaviour, 3:3, pp. 251–62, https://doi.org/10.1002/cb.138.
     [Google Scholar]
  47. Prown, J. D. (1982), ‘Mind in matter: An introduction to material culture theory and method’, Winterthur Portfolio, 17:1, pp. 1–19, https://doi.org/10.1086/496065.
     [Google Scholar]
  48. Raymond, M. (2010), The Trend Forecaster’s Handbook, London: Laurence King.
     [Google Scholar]
  49. Ritch, E. L. (2014), ‘Consumers interpreting sustainability: Moving beyond food to fashion’, International Journal of Retail and Distribution Management, 43:12, pp. 1162–81, https://doi.org/10.1108/IJRDM-04-2014-0042.
     [Google Scholar]
  50. Rocamora, A. and Smelik, A. (2016), Thinking through Fashion: A Guide to Key Theorists, London: I.B. Tauris.
     [Google Scholar]
  51. Rogers, E. (2003), Diffusion of Innovations, 5th ed., New York: Free press.
     [Google Scholar]
  52. Schwartz, S. H. (2012), ‘An overview of the Schwartz theory of basic values’, Psychology and Culture, 11:2, pp. 12–13, https://doi.org/10.9707/2307-0919.1116.
     [Google Scholar]
  53. Simmel, G. (1957), ‘Fashion’, American Journal of Sociology, 62:6, pp. 541–58, https://doi.org/10.1086/222102.
     [Google Scholar]
  54. Stannard, C. (2013), ‘Negotiating an appropriate image: A visual analysis of prom magazine editorials’, Proceedings of International Textile and Apparel Association, New Orleans, LA, 15–18 October, pp. 42–43.
     [Google Scholar]
  55. Steele, V. (1998), ‘A museum of fashion is more than a clothes-bag’, Fashion Theory: The Journal of Dress, Body and Culture, 2:4, pp. 327–35, https://doi.org/10.2752/136270498779476109.
     [Google Scholar]
  56. Stringer, T., Mortimer, G. and Payne, A. R. (2020), ‘Do ethical concerns and personal values influence the purchase intention of fast-fashion clothing?’, Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, 24:1, pp. 99–120, https://doi.org/10.1108/JFMM-01-2019-0011.
     [Google Scholar]
  57. Su, J. and Chang, A. (2018), ‘Factors affecting college students’ brand loyalty toward fast fashion: A consumer-based brand equity approach’, International Journal of Retail and Distribution Management, 46:1, pp. 90–107, https://doi.org/10.1108/IJRDM-01-2016-0015.
     [Google Scholar]
  58. Tassell, C., Bardey, A. and Schat, A. (2022), ‘How to wear happiness: Impact of wearing clothing labelled sustainable or fast fashion on subjective well-being’, International Journal of Sustainable Fashion & Textiles, 1:1, pp. 63–80, https://doi.org/10.1386/sft/0004_1.
     [Google Scholar]
  59. Townsend, K., Sadkowska, A. and Sissons, J. (2016), ‘Emotional fit: Developing a new fashion design methodology for mature women’, 2016 Design Research Society 50th Anniversary Conference, Brighton, 27–30 June, pp. 1–17.
     [Google Scholar]
  60. Valle Noronha, J., Niinimäki, K. and Kujala, S. (2018), ‘Notes on wearer-worn attachments: Learning to wear’, Clothing Cultures, 5:2, pp. 225–46, https://doi.org/10.1386/cc.5.2.225_1.
     [Google Scholar]
  61. Veenstra, A. and Kuipers, G. (2013), ‘It is not old-fashioned, it is vintage, vintage fashion and the complexities of 21st century consumption practices’, Sociology Compass, 7:5, pp. 355–65, https://doi.org/10.1111/soc4.12033.
     [Google Scholar]
  62. Vladimirova, K. (2022), ‘Behind 11 million likes: Sustainable fashion on Instagram – a critical analysis of actors and discourses on fashion, sustainability and social change’, International Journal of Sustainable Fashion & Textiles, 1:1, pp. 107–48, https://doi.org/10.1386/sft/0006_1.
     [Google Scholar]
  63. Woodward, S. (2005), ‘Looking good, feeling right: Aesthetics of the self’, in D. Miller and S. Kuchler (eds), Clothing as Material Culture, Oxford: Berg, pp. 21–40.
     [Google Scholar]
  64. Woodward, S. (2007), Why Women Wear What They Wear, Oxford: Berg.
     [Google Scholar]
  65. Woodward, S. (2014), ‘Accidentally sustainable? Ethnographic approaches to clothing practices’, in K. Fletcher and M. Tham (eds), Routledge Handbook of Sustainability and Fashion, Florence: Taylor + Francis, pp. 131–38, https://doi.org/10.4324/9780203519943.
     [Google Scholar]
  66. Woodward, S. (2019), ‘Sophie Woodward “Object interviews: Getting participants to encounter and/or connect with things”’, YouTube, 28 October, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Y_CYonphBM&app=desktop. Accessed 27 May 2020.
  67. Workman, J. E. and Lee, S. H. (2017), ‘What do we know about fashion adoption groups? A proposal and test of a model of fashion adoption’, International Journal of Consumer Studies, 41:1, pp. 61–69, https://doi.org/10.1111/ijcs.12314.
     [Google Scholar]
/content/journals/10.1386/sft_00058_1
Loading
Rethinking the fast fashion trend cycle: Consumer perspectives
International Journal of Sustainable Fashion & Textiles 4, 73 (2025); https://doi.org/10.1386/sft_00058_1
/content/journals/10.1386/sft_00058_1
/content/journals/10.1386/sft_00058_1
Loading

Data & Media loading...

  • Article Type: Article
Keyword(s): emotional attachment; longevity; material culture; style identities; sustainable consumption; wardrobe studies

Most Cited Most Cited RSS feed

This is a required field
Please enter a valid email address
Approval was a success
Invalid data
An error occurred
Approval was partially successful, following selected items could not be processed due to error
Please enter a valid_number test