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- Volume 11, Issue 1, 2022
Film, Fashion & Consumption - Volume 11, Issue 1, 2022
Volume 11, Issue 1, 2022
- Editorial
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- Review Article
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- Articles
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Female fashion in the Franco era and the Imágenes magazine programme
By Ana MelendoAn analysis of the documentaries made for the magazine programme Imágenes in the historical archives of the NO-DO newsreels, used by the Franco dictatorship as an instrument of propaganda, can shed light on some important aspects of Spain’s recent history. The aim of this article is to demonstrate how these documentaries, which exhibit certain formal features suited to the spectator of their time, make fashion an effective instrument for conveying ideas of gender differences and female servility, self-denial and submission in a patriarchal regime.
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Meeting the expectations of western consumers on the Romanian film Beyond the Hills by Cristian Mungiu
Authors: Ulrike Ettinger and Barbara SchrödlThe film Beyond the Hills (Cristian Mungiu, 2012, RO, FR, BEL) is set in a convent struggling with major financial problems in post-transitional Romania, where a deadly exorcism is being performed. The story is based on a true incident. Accordingly, the cinematic language operates through the means of realism. Nevertheless, at the level of the images, art historical traditions, contemporary design tendencies and current fashion trends are drawn upon to give the monastery a simple and timeless beauty. This transforms the monastery into a place of longing for the cinema audience. The film costume plays a special role in this. It contributes in a particular way to identification processes, invokes the sacred and connects with the upmarket consumer culture of contemporary lifestyle-movements.
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Embodying female dissent in Sanditon: The case of Esther Denham’s two bodies
More LessThis article discusses the visual representation of Esther Denham, one of the female characters in Sanditon (2019, ITV, PBS), from the point of view of her displayed sartorial narrative, in relation to postmodern gender politics and female subjectivity. It argues that only a post-heritage adaptation of Jane Austen’s unfinished book manuscript would allow for such a narratological transposition of one of its characters into an outright Goth-inflected screen persona, characterized by outright dissent, interrogation, subversion, self-consciousness and ambiguity. The article foregrounds the crucial importance of Esther Denham’s embodied dress practice to get this message across by pointing out its necessarily diachronic screen costume rationale based on clothing items that are historically correct but which also resonate iconicity in our own time.
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‘Who wants the pressure of being super all the time?’: Mid-century modern fashions and their influence on costume development in The Incredibles and Incredibles 2
Authors: Maarit Kalmakurki and Marley HealyIn this article, we examine period fashions in character costumes in the two Pixar/Disney computer-animated films, The Incredibles and Incredibles 2. These films have a strong mid-century modern design influence interwoven into the films’ narratives and aesthetic designs. The films have previously raised interest in fashion studies, due to their superhero concept. However, an analysis of the characters’ everyday dress is also valuable for understanding the influence of fashion and pop culture references on contemporary animated film costuming and how those elements embed within the technological development of digital characters’ clothing. We employ historical and visual analysis to highlight the integration of design elements of period-appropriate fashions into character costumes. Additionally, we examine the relationship between animation software development and the films’ design aesthetics to inspect how technological advancements support the behaviour of cloth, narrative progression and characters’ personal emotional arcs by reviewing industry articles as well as animator and designer interviews from the making of the films. This is a unique case study that explores the influences and inspiration of period-specific fashion in constructing costumes for computer-animated films, which are ostensibly set in an environment also inspired by the period and specific cultural zeitgeist.
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