Fashion, Style & Popular Culture - Online First

As artificial intelligence (AI) becomes more embedded in fashion design, questions arise about the values these systems encode. Current tools emphasize speed, novelty and surface aesthetics, often overlooking the cultural, emotional and material dimensions of sustainable practice. This article proposes Slow AI: a speculative, ethically grounded framework rooted in fabric memory, narrative depth and material literacy. Drawing on material culture theory and studio-based research, it critiques how generative AI simulates sustainability while neglecting provenance and care. Through case studies of Marine Serre, BODE and FAÇON JACMIN, the article shows how designers already model the relational intelligence AI might one day support. A speculative toolkit outlines functions such as archive mapping, emotionally annotated datasets and story-aligned prompts. Rather than accelerating production, Slow AI reframes design as a process of co-authorship, rooted in repair, friction and the ethics of making.

This research investigates the role of activewear as a representation of modern masculinity in urban Indonesia. The study used qualitative research methodologies, including interviews with ten Indonesian men who actively include activewear in their wardrobe choices. Such exploration will look into the dynamics at play at the nexus between fashion, fitness and masculinity within this setting. The findings indicated that activewear is a multidimensional signifier of contemporary masculinity, signalling a movement away from the stoicism associated with traditional masculinity towards a health-and-fitness-emphasized, modern and active lifestyle. Overall, participants showed an overwhelmingly strong association between the concept of healthy lifestyle and activewear, where sportswear was seen as wearing an image of fitness and discipline, a desirable life. It illustrates that globally and locally relevant constructions of male identity intertwine, as most of the ideals of athleticism and masculinity depicted through the western media get appraised by participants with consideration towards Indonesian cultural logic focused on harmonious coexistence and community bonding. Additionally, when choosing clothing, comfort and usefulness work together to enhance the brand’s image. They preferred brands with images they would like to portray and those offering high-quality, functional clothes. Sustainability was an increasingly important consideration, but high prices barred most from choosing such options. This research develops the understanding of how fashion and consumerism shape masculine identities in contemporary Indonesia. By placing activewear in this context, the study places a valuable insight into the changing dynamics of masculinity in the fast-changing urban landscape.

Yao embroidery from Liannan Yao Autonomous County, Guangdong Province, represents a crucial element of China’s intangible cultural heritage, embodying both artistic expression and cultural identity. This study identified and explored innovative designs for culturally significant traditional Yao patterns. Employing literature review, case studies and field research, Yao clothing patterns from northern Guangdong were collected, vectorized and digitally analysed using Adobe Illustrator and Photoshop. A modern pattern series was developed, and CLO3D software was applied to simulate virtual clothing models that incorporate these traditional patterns. The research evaluated the cultural identity of both contemporary and traditional Yao consumers through the production of physical garments. Findings demonstrate the effectiveness of virtual design in preserving and promoting ethnic cultural characteristics while driving innovation in the fashion industry. This study contributes to the preservation of Yao patterns and illustrates how virtual displays can safeguard traditional heritage for application in today’s fashion industry.

Creating resonance between an audience and brand identity is often a long-term process but can be made instant through proper music implementation. This research explored music listening behaviours and their effect on inducing fantasy/daydreaming within fashion spaces (domestic, retail and runway) and specifically if fantasy strengthens garment self-association. Creating this connection between music, a garment and a physical space could result in an elevated visitor experience and signals a preference for curated experiences. The study undertook a phenomenological approach through surveys, wardrobe interviews and Mirror Time (using a mirror to pull on subconscious thoughts). The short-form survey and long-form interview had sample sizes of fifteen and four, respectively, covering several age groups from 21 to 35. Results showed that genre, task, music agency and desire mitigated fantasy/daydreaming. Additionally, music listening behaviours split into two audience groups: one using music for fantasy and the other for focus. Fashion spaces were mapped on a Store–Space (x), Object–Product (y) continuum to assess their properties, which, in conjunction with the audience groups, provided a framework for organizations to develop accurate music strategies. By integrating curated music experiences into a marketing strategy, a more consistent and meaningful brand–consumer resonance can be created.

This article critically examines the emerging role of artificial intelligence (AI) in the field of fashion trend forecasting, focusing on how machine-learning technologies reshape the aesthetic and commercial dimensions of predicting style. Drawing from fashion studies, philosophy and management studies, this article interrogates the shift from qualitative, expert-led trend forecasting to data-driven, predictive systems that claim to map and anticipate consumer taste at scale. It explores how these systems function not only as tools of prediction but also as producers of cultural meaning, taste hierarchies and aesthetic norms. The article offers a new perspective on AI forecasting in the academy, which has thus far focused on its technical aspects. By analysing AI fashion trend platforms, I explore a critical framework for understanding the implications of AI-driven trend forecasting in both commercial and cultural contexts.

On 26 July 2024, the Paris Olympics featured an opening ceremony that became one of the most iconic openings in history, primarily due to the showcase and partnership between the games and fashion house Louis Vuitton. Although the worlds of sport and fashion have historically been a space of great consternation, contemporary sport and fashion collaborations (like those in the Olympics) have shown that the two worlds are better off as partners than as competitors. In the age of digital/social media, along with the growing need to creatively encapsulate the attention of younger audiences, sport and fashion are facing the ushering of a new relationship wherein they explore creative collaborations, sponsorships, endorsements and collections to increase their brand awareness and identity. Through an interest convergence lens, the worlds are colliding due to their shared interests of new (younger) audiences, increase global reach, and increase brand awareness. Much like LVMH sponsoring the opening ceremonies of the Olympic Games in Paris, the overlap between sport and fashion marks the beginning of a new age of conjoined entertainment.

This pilot study explored the articulation of fashion design students’ aesthetic design language for fashion (ADL-F) and investigated methods for improved efficacy. Using a three-pronged theoretical framework (information theory, descriptive linguistics and multimodal discourse analysis) a three-phase analysis was conducted consisting of thematic, content and spatial mapping evaluations of student ADL-F statements and corresponding sewn garments. Findings reveal aspects of literal visual translation of garments in student work, but difficulties overusing metaphorical and vague language. A developed instrument found significant associations between ADL-F variables and quality ratings and highlighted challenges in specificity, clarity and accuracy for many variables such as pattern, texture and function. A spatial mapping approach was developed that further revealed gaps in comprehensive ADL-F descriptions. Insights indicate that improved ADL-F would include precise language, reduced metaphor use, enhanced knowledge and usage of ADL-F variables, and comprehensive spatial descriptions of the design in applications of academic, professional and emerging GenAI contexts.

Over the past decade, artificial intelligence (AI) has rapidly permeated various human activities. AI developments are utilized by professionals in design-creative processes, including art, fashion, design and so forth. Consequently, the purpose of this study is to analyse the role of neural networks in contemporary fashion design and the operations of design, marketing and advertising companies. To achieve the set goal, the following methods were employed: analytical, comparative and methods of generalization and systematization. The research determined that the use of AI in modern fashion design offers potential for creating new opportunities and transforming traditional approaches to the creation and sale of fashionable products. The experience of using AI in design, marketing and advertising campaigns also evidences the successful application of neural networks in creating innovative collections, unconventional design solutions and in the development of personalized marketing and demand forecasting and future trend analysis. However, alongside the advantages, AI application also raises ethical and social issues. Concerns about the use of personal data, copyright and AI’s impact on employment in the fashion industry require expert attention and discussion. Furthermore, against the backdrop of the rapid development of AI, threats to humanity as a whole emerge, which also need consideration. The conclusions of this article may be useful for designers, art historians, marketers, AI specialists and anyone interested in the use of neural networks in contemporary fashion design and its influence on the fashion industry.

Individuals are exposed to viral fashion trends daily on social media channels. This study focuses specifically on Generation Z (Gen Z) and their purchase intentions regarding viral fashion trends on the popular social media channel TikTok. Specifically, the study aims to better understand how the virality of a video on TikTok impacts the purchase intention of Gen Z through examining parasocial interaction (PSI), perceived interactivity, loyalty, openness and willingness to share information with the content creator. An online experiment was conducted wherein 280 Gen Z participants saw a viral or non-viral video of the same product being featured. Findings indicate that participants’ perceived loyalty, willingness to share and perceived openness of the influencer had significant positive effects on their PSI, which in turn impacted their purchase intention. In addition, virality of the video directly impacted their purchase intention as well. The results identify the current questions surrounding Gen Z’s purchase intentions with viral fashion trends viewed on TikTok. The results suggest strategies to create viral marketing content that is critical for marketers to reach large audiences and build brand awareness.