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International Journal of Fashion Studies - Online First
Online First articles will be assigned issues in due course.
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Yogalebrities: The postfeminist, fashionable construction of ‘psychic life’ on social media
Authors: Juliana Luna Mora and Aneta PodkalickaAvailable online: 30 May 2024More LessThe appeal and impact of social media influencers within contemporary consumer culture has been a much-explored topic in fashion and media research. However, there are limited studies of yogalebrities – celebrity yoga practitioners who gain global visibility and following through branded product endorsements and modelling contracts – despite their leading role within the culturally and economically significant wellness industry. Furthermore, while the existing scholarship considers the intersections between consumer culture and spirituality, it is yet to grant due recognition to the active production and consumption of fashionable spiritual feminine identities produced on and through prevalent social media. Drawing on the combined insights from media, fashion and feminist studies, we discuss how yogalebrities represent and perpetuate normative ideals about femininity and its spiritual dimensions. We ground the discussion in the analysis of two different cases of yogalebrities: celebrity influencer Sjana Elise and micro-influencer Jessamyn Stanley. We demonstrate how they fold entrepreneurial opportunities into self-actualizing, self-branded intimate narratives to seek legitimacy and commercial success, and how their audience engagement capitalizes on, commodifies and stylizes spiritual values that underpin western yoga philosophy. By documenting these complex tactics, we contribute to fashion studies’ and feminist media studies’ understanding of the mediatized and increasingly fashionable psychic life of women.
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Material ambiguities of losing a parent: Time, clothing and grief during terminal illness
Available online: 20 May 2024More LessIn the spring of 2023, my father, Arturo, died of brain cancer at the age of 55, after a decade of illness. As he was dying, I began to process my anticipatory grief by writing about my emotional attachments to his clothing. Drawing on material culture, affect and design theory, this article looks at my family’s personal experience of my father’s illness and death to investigate the emotional possibilities and limits of garments belonging to palliative care patients and their loved ones. By looking closely at the material resonances of my father’s clothing while he died, this article explores how clothes reflect the confusing nature of time, grief and love when losing a parent to long-term illness. In theorizing the experience of losing a parent through a material culture lens, this article explores the liminality of anticipating a significant familial loss and the affective qualities of the garments that endure through it.
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Women undercover: Exploring the intersectional identities of Muslim women through modest fashion
Available online: 16 May 2024More LessSignificant discrimination is directed towards Muslim women who dress modestly. Despite this, Muslims around the world continue to spend tens of billions of dollars on modest fashion. Past research in modest fashion has focused on modest fashion influencers, the industry or on veiling. Muslim women’s everyday dress practices and their lived experiences have not been studied through an intersectional lens. Through an intersectional theoretical framework, this research uses wardrobe interviews with sixteen Muslim women to explore how they embody their identity through modest fashion, how intersectionality impacts their clothing choices and what contexts influence their sartorial decisions. Three themes emerge: what influences their style; how they shop and style outfits; and what consequences are faced. By prioritizing modesty as a sartorial practice, these women are diverting the western gaze, navigating away from superficial and oppressive western beauty ideals and challenging narrow Islamophobic stereotypes.
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