Luxury Studies: The In Pursuit of Luxury Journal - Volume 1, Issue 2, 2022

In this short article, Patrick Mathieu and Frédéric Monneyron offer a new analysis of luxury they have developed in their noted book, L’Imaginaire du luxe (Imago, 2015). Their study is grounded on the idea that luxury is always a way of keeping death away and that luxury is a matter of images more than objects. Calling on the works of two major French anthropologists, Gilbert Durand and Georges Dumézil, they consequently identify on the one hand the main trends of luxury, conspicuousness, elegance and comfort and their growing importance in today’s societies and, on the other hand, they stress the importance of luxury brands and their place in the luxury market.

In Canada we struggle to recognize homegrown fashion talent, and our benchmarks for identifying quality work are based on imported luxury brands. Paradoxically, however, where we are most successful is when we are at our most Canadian. The Arc’teryx label, for example. This brand that grew from a passion for rock climbing, and whose gear subsequently expanded into luxury athleisure, has a uniquely Canadian DNA, one that actively engages with the natural world, the elements, and whose design and manufacturing directives are guided by a deep respect for sustainable principles. The goal of this research is to examine Arc’teryx to see how a successful fashion label has chosen to incorporate sustainable principles into their daily operations. The methodology for this article draws upon interviews with a key company employee, and it also examines the manufacturing model employed by Arc’teryx and how the fundamental corporate ethos drives decision-making. Theory for this article is adapted from technology and social critic Ursula Franklin’s prescient 1989 Massey College (University of Toronto) lecture series (‘The Real World of Technology’) wherein she examined the social shifts that were being catalysed by ascendant technology. Historically, Canada has been a locus of colonial imports and of raw resource export; perhaps now, the cultural values of Canada can constitute another valuable export commodity. One that is sorely needed as the fashion industry as a whole – in its current structure and practices – is massively destructive to the environment and the workers who manufacture our fashionable luxuries. For Arc’teryx, there may not be the same cachet of status-based cosseted luxury or aspirational identification with a rarefied clientele that a European haute-couture fashionable item carries. Conversely, this brand may illustrate that there is more to the ontology of luxury than just the narrow parameters of the Faubourg Saint Honoré or 5th Avenue. For Arc’teryx it is more about an athletic, holistic aesthetic, one that espouses the ‘luxury’ of a strong, healthy body that actively engages with a pristine, natural environment. Worthwhile aspirations that can have much wider implications when applied to a business model.

The financial crisis of 2008 had pushed for the internalization of luxury and promoted a new wave of brands pioneering intrinsic values over opulent goods and services. Sitting in the peculiar intersection of humanism and luxury, humanistic luxury is a novel subcategory of ethical consumerism, one that combines social development and materially derived prestige. With a promise to preserve dying arts and crafts and uplift impoverished but deserving artisans, a new form of inconspicuous prestige consumption was born. This novel badge of honour, however, also introduced unprecedented considerations to the global social fabric. Humanistic luxury, an oxymoron that is too often overlooked, may help eliminate artisan vulnerability, but it also cements social hierarchies confirming who is ‘worthy’ and who is not, ultimately hindering social mobility on both local and global levels. Based on fourteen deep interviews conducted with humanistic luxury consumers across eleven countries, this article is tracing the origins of this new segment, exploring the social dynamics that set it in motion, outlining its social impacts and guiding academics to further research and industry professionals to a critical understanding of development and commerce. Humanistic luxury, as the findings of the research demonstrate, is a synthesis that arises from two oppositional ideas and serves as a reconciliation between haves and have-nots, ultimately providing a compromise between social sensitivity and vanity-driven status-seeking, affixing the same social hierarchy and related beliefs they already possess. While this symbolic segment yields consumers with the agency to improve the life of vulnerable populations, it ultimately fails to deliver on its promise of creating an egalitarian society, as it exclusively works with the ‘distant other’, maintaining local and global social order and the access to resources, as we know it.