Luxury Studies: The In Pursuit of Luxury Journal - Volume 4, Issue 1, 2025
Volume 4, Issue 1, 2025
- Editorial
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Editorial
show More to view fulltext, buy and share links for:Editorial show Less to hide fulltext, buy and share links for: EditorialAuthors: Shaun Borstrock and Veronica ManlowThis issue of Luxury Studies examines luxury as a multifaceted concept encompassing symbolic structures, cultural practices and sites of social contention. Through interdisciplinary contributions from industry practitioners and academic researchers, the volume explores how luxury functions as both an exclusionary force and a transformative presence in contemporary society. Muratovski’s comprehensive analysis traces luxury’s evolution from Veblenian conspicuous consumption to contemporary models emphasizing transparency and social responsibility. Drawing on consulting experience within the luxury automotive sector, the research demonstrates how brands navigate shifts in consumer values, digital transformation and sustainability demands while implementing the European Commission’s Industry 5.0 human-centric framework for ethical luxury leadership. Feng, Larsen and Ellis employ discourse analysis to reveal cross cultural variations in luxury consumption between Chinese and British consumers. Their research, utilizing alternative media analysis and focus group interviews, uncovers expressions of scepticism and moral exhaustion towards luxury brands. The study identifies distinct cultural patterns: British participants emphasize performative ethics and the need to disguise luxury consumption, while Chinese participants frame luxury within nationalist, familial and class-based narratives that honour family success and national prestige. The research challenges traditional assumptions by demonstrating that luxury consumption primarily involves negotiating symbolic legitimacy rather than mere status display. The Borstrock–Tuma-Weldon interview addresses contemporary luxury branding challenges examining the tension between exclusivity and accessibility amid rising cultural intelligence and shifting consumer values. The conversation identifies the core contradiction facing luxury brands, achieving growth and shareholder satisfaction without diluting brand authenticity. The analysis highlights that brand relevance depends on emotional consumer connection, cultural value alignment and clear existential purpose, ultimately advocating for a synthesis of craftsmanship excellence with adaptability to changing global demands. Collectively, these contributions reveal luxury’s active role in contemporary society, demonstrating how brands and consumers negotiate meaning across cultural contexts while confronting ethical, technological and sustainability requirements that are reshaping the luxury landscape.
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- Articles
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Reframing luxury: The role of luxury brands in shaping Industry 5.0
show More to view fulltext, buy and share links for:Reframing luxury: The role of luxury brands in shaping Industry 5.0 show Less to hide fulltext, buy and share links for: Reframing luxury: The role of luxury brands in shaping Industry 5.0This article examines the intersection of luxury brands and Industry 5.0, a new European Commission policy initiative that promotes human-centric, sustainable and resilient industrial practices. Industry 5.0 advocates for production processes that extend beyond efficiency to integrate social, environmental and human well-being. The article argues that luxury brands are uniquely positioned to lead this shift, as their emphasis on craftsmanship, longevity and exclusivity is already aligned with the principles of responsible consumption. By redefining their value narratives, luxury brands can future-proof their businesses while driving broader societal change. Furthermore, luxury brands’ potential to drive resilience, through decentralized supply chains and a focus on local ecosystems, presents a model for more robust and adaptable business practices, while demonstrating how industry can operate within planetary boundaries while enhancing quality of life. Ultimately, the article proposes that by becoming early adopters of Industry 5.0, luxury brands can redefine the concept of luxury and set a global standard for aligning profit with purpose in the pursuit of a sustainable future. The article also includes a set of practical recommendations for industry executives on how this can be effectively achieved.
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The Balenciaga is flowering: A speculative investigation into biosynthetic luxury
show More to view fulltext, buy and share links for:The Balenciaga is flowering: A speculative investigation into biosynthetic luxury show Less to hide fulltext, buy and share links for: The Balenciaga is flowering: A speculative investigation into biosynthetic luxuryBy Daniel KinneThis article explores the emerging intersection of synthetic biology and luxury fashion, examining how living, responsive materials could transform our relationship with clothing and accessories. Through speculative design methodologies, the author presents three distinct scenarios for biosynthetic luxury: Living Second Skin, Symbiotic Brand Integration and Regenerative Circular Luxury. Drawing on archaeological evidence of humanity’s ancient co-evolutionary relationship with clothing and contemporary advances in bioengineering, the article analyses the philosophical, ethical and economic implications of this paradigm shift. The investigation reveals a fundamental ‘biosynthetic luxury paradox’ where living products simultaneously reinforce luxury’s promise of distinction while subverting traditional notions of ownership and permanence. Critical examination of human autonomy, environmental risk and moral consideration for engineered organisms illuminates the complex challenges accompanying these technological possibilities. The work contributes to emerging discourses on xenobiology, speculative design and sustainable luxury by analysing how ancient human–garment relationships might be reconceptualized through cutting-edge biotechnology while navigating unprecedented ethical territories.
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Pessimistic luxury: An alternative discourse to conceptualize luxury
show More to view fulltext, buy and share links for:Pessimistic luxury: An alternative discourse to conceptualize luxury show Less to hide fulltext, buy and share links for: Pessimistic luxury: An alternative discourse to conceptualize luxuryAuthors: Shuo Feng, Gretchen Larsen and Nick EllisPresently, the notion of luxury can be interpreted and conceptualized by two different but parallel discourses. First, luxury is maintained by the discourse of consumerism as a facilitator of consumer hedonism; second, luxury is perceived by unconventional luxury research as the terminus of consumer emancipation and escapism. Alternatively, this article puts forward ‘pessimistic luxury’ as a third discourse for conceptualizing luxury. By critically analysing the discursive construction of luxury by alternative media, we conceptualize pessimistic luxury and outline three theoretical implications: (1) the resumption of moral critiques in luxury studies, (2) a movement towards luxurizing normality and (3) shaping solidity in liquefied luxury. This article contributes to the ongoing exploration of luxury beyond consumerism by providing an alternative perspective that critically examines the notion of luxury through the lens of consumer precarity and vulnerabilities.
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- Interview
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In Pursuit of Luxury: A scholarly interview with Nadia Tuma-Weldon: An academic dialogue on contemporary luxury theory and practice
show More to view fulltext, buy and share links for:In Pursuit of Luxury: A scholarly interview with Nadia Tuma-Weldon: An academic dialogue on contemporary luxury theory and practice show Less to hide fulltext, buy and share links for: In Pursuit of Luxury: A scholarly interview with Nadia Tuma-Weldon: An academic dialogue on contemporary luxury theory and practiceTuma-Weldon analyses the fundamental transformation of luxury from a static, brand-dictated paradigm to a fluid concept shaped by individual aspirations and cultural dynamics. She observes that while traditional luxury brands historically established societal aspirational standards, contemporary consumers – particularly younger demographics – independently define luxury, often prioritizing elements such as playfulness, accessibility and personal expression over traditional exclusivity markers. The discussion addresses the strategic challenges confronting major luxury houses, particularly the balance between mass market appeal and the preservation of rarity and exclusivity. Tuma-Weldon examines how brands such as Chanel manage this tension by providing accessible entry points (cosmetics) while simultaneously creating highly exclusive experiences for their most valued clients. She emphasizes the fundamental importance of brand mythology, aspiration and emotional connectivity in luxury brand relationships. The interview critically examines the semantic dilution of the term ‘luxury’, with Tuma-Weldon proposing that authentic luxury emerges from the synthesis of passion and technical excellence – what she characterizes as the harmony of love and skill. She presents a segmentation framework of luxury consumers into four global mindsets (Culture Club, Country Club, Alpha Club and Fight Club), demonstrating the diversity of attitudes and motivations within affluent populations. The scholars discuss the enduring significance of craftsmanship, extending beyond product creation to encompass service delivery and digital experiences. Tuma-Weldon argues that genuine care, attention to detail and expertise constitute essential luxury components, with human capital playing a critical role in delivering memorable, values-aligned experiences. In considering future trajectories, Tuma-Weldon positions herself as a cultural analyst, utilizing data-driven insights to anticipate luxury sector shifts. She concludes by reconceptualizing luxury as personal freedom, fulfilment and authentic living – suggesting that luxury’s essence resides in experiential rather than material dimensions.
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- Book Review
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Fashion: A Theory: Mapping the Sociological Landscape of Fashion and Clothing, Frederic Monneyron (2024)
show More to view fulltext, buy and share links for:Fashion: A Theory: Mapping the Sociological Landscape of Fashion and Clothing, Frederic Monneyron (2024) show Less to hide fulltext, buy and share links for: Fashion: A Theory: Mapping the Sociological Landscape of Fashion and Clothing, Frederic Monneyron (2024)By Runzhou SunReview of: Fashion: A Theory: Mapping the Sociological Landscape of Fashion and Clothing, Frederic Monneyron (2024)
n.p.: OpenCulture Academic Press, 194 pp.,
ISBN 979-1-04311-177-8, p/bk, GBP 16.95
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