Review of: Fashion-ology: Fashion Studies in the Postmodern Digital Era Yuniya Kawamura (2023)

London: Bloomsbury Publishing 182 pp.

ISBN 978-1-35033-186-0 p/bk $29.95

Media and societal values play a significant role in influencing social physique anxiety among female university students. This in turn affects the multifaceted roles that attire assumes including concealing enhancing and expressing. A recent study conducted in Taiwan examined 503 female college students utilizing the Social Physique Anxiety Scale and Clothing Functions Scale. The research aimed to uncover how anxiety about body image influences the selection of clothing. Cluster analysis identified three distinct groups: those with a ‘Confident’ ‘Comfortable’ and ‘Anxious’ body image. Further analysis through ANOVA revealed variations in clothing preferences across these clusters. Regression analysis then delved into the impact of public physical and competitive and non-public evaluative and comfort on clothing choices within each group. The findings indicated that clothing preferences were strongly influenced by the level of anxiety. While individuality and fashion preferences remained stable high anxiety levels led to more practical and concealing clothing choices. In contrast lower anxiety levels were associated with more individualistic and fashionable selections. The study emphasized the significant roles of ‘PPC’ and ‘NPEC’ in shaping clothing functions within the identified clusters highlighting the complex relationship between self-perception attire and self-expression in the pursuit of confidence. Overall the research emphasized the strong correlation between social physique anxiety and the decisions made in clothing selection.

Review of: Fashion: Seductive Play Stefano Marino and Giovanni Matteucci (eds) (2023)

London: Bloomsbury Publishing 131 pp.

ISBN 978-1-35020-038-8 h/bk $115.00

This article explores the evolution and diverse interpretations of ‘design’ throughout history emphasizing its broader implications beyond mere aesthetics. Initially a verb in the English language during the 1500s design encompasses a range of activities from thought and planning to the creation and execution of artefacts. The work challenges narrow perceptions highlighting design’s role across various domains as identified by Terence Love who views it as a set of instructions for realization. The discourse extends to the discipline of design asserting that all human activity inherently involves design thus blurring the distinctions between design and daily life. The article also delves into fashion design tracing its historical significance and the transition from individual craftsmanship to mass production and the subsequent rise of different fashion genres. Additionally the relationship between design and style is scrutinized noting the influence of societal and cultural factors on fashion. The article concludes with an examination of aesthetics in design underscoring the essential balance between functionality and visual appeal in successful design outcomes.

‘Aesthetics’ is the new ‘it’ word among Gen-Zs. They stand for stylized visual trends shared on social media platforms like TikTok and Instagram. The suffix -core is frequently used on these social media platforms to describe the various aesthetics. These micro-cores have emerged as mediums of self-expression and catalysts for social change amongst Gen-Zs. This study aims to understand the concept of trending micro-cores and the impact they have on framing identities of today’s youth who have grown up amid warnings of impending doom brought on by climate change pandemic lockdowns and economic collapse. The study discusses four micro-cores – Barbiecore Y2K quiet luxury and e-girl/e-boy – to understand their meaning origin and relevance in current cultural contexts. It follows a qualitative approach with an interpretivist paradigm to develop themes from literature by analysing website blogs and social media content. The study then triangulates the data by surveying Gen-Z participants to understand their perspectives on the influences that urge people to adapt to these micro-cores.

This article examines a Mexican and Mexican American style of dress referenced to as paisa style. This style of dress is often associated with corrido norteño and Banda culture. In fact after the Quebradita movement during the 1990s Mexican American youth adopted this style to create what is referred to as Chalinillo paisa subculture which was heavily inspired by corrido singer Chalino Sanchez. Following Dick Hebdige’s definition of subculture as ‘the expressive forms and rituals of those subordinate groups’ in this article I study how paisa style was worn to signify cultural pride in a moment of heavy anti-immigrant sentiment. In an effort to study the contemporary examples of paisa style I analyse the work of four artists: queer photographer Fabian Guerrero queer model Jose Hernandez beauty influencer Jennifer Ruiz and brand designers Paisaboys. Using a performative discursive analysis I show how contemporary queer artists and influencers most of whom are not in the music world have reappropriated the paisa aesthetic to centre feminine and queer embodiments. These queer artists are not only demanding the recognition of queer sexualities in this subculture but they are also asking us to think about paisa dress as archives that hold memories migration stories and their potential to change past narratives. The artists studied in this article add new signification to paisa subculture that centres a Brown queer lens.

Review of: Little Black Dress: A Radical Fashion Georgina Ripley (2023)

Edinburgh: NMS Enterprises Limited 160 pp.

ISBN 978-1-91068-227-2 h/bk ₤30.00

Review of: Dress History of Korea: Critical Perspectives on Primary Sources Kyunghee Pyun and Minjee Kim (eds) (2023)

London: Bloomsbury 339 pp.

ISBN 978-1-35014-337-1 h/bk $115

Review of: Fashion before Plus-Size: Bodies Bias and the Birth of an Industry Lauren Downing Peters (2023)

London: Bloomsbury Publishing 198 pp.

ISBN 978-1-35017-254-8 h/bk $115.00

Maya the Drag Queen is Alex Mathew a drag persona from Kerala India. Being a drag queen in Indian society takes a lot of guts confidence and determination. Alex has been performing as a theatre actor since 2011 and as an Indian drag queen since September 2014. They have been credited with making drag popular as an art form in India. Their ideals are to fight against inequality individualism gender equality and feminism. Their purpose is to mainstream drag as an art form on many platforms that will give them a voice and show the truth about the Indian community. This article is an interview conducted with Maya the Drag Queen which discusses the varied aspects of drag as a performance art in the cultural context of India. It specifically addresses the politics and performance of drag; its reception and challenges in India; the role of fashion and clothing in constituting the drag identity; the characteristics of gender nonconformity and queer fashion in India.