The civilizing process and sartorial studies

Analyses of sartorial vogues from the past and present have become increasingly cognizant of sociological paradigms, with the notable exception of Norbert Elias’ seminal theory of the civilizing process. This article argues for a greater awareness of the civilizing process in sartorial studies, particularly its discussion of the we–I balance, which elucidates changing patterns of self-perception within a continually evolving society. Felicitously, the diachronic approach adopted by civilizing process facilitates the incorporation of other, synchronic sociological models into sartorial analysis. Reference is made to the theories of Theodor Adorno, Michel de Certeau, Erving Goffman and Thorstein Veblen.