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Volume 11, Issue 2, 2024
- Editorial
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Wearing the past, dressing the future: Rethinking fashion through cultural continuity
More LessIn an age of fast fashion, cultural homogeneity and environmental urgency, clothing maintains its position as a symbol of resistance, bearer of identity and holder of memories. This issue of Clothing Cultures highlights global dress practices connecting heritage, sustainability and self-expression across contexts from Ghana to Indonesia, North America to Scandinavia. The articles examine the pre-industrial dress practices of the makers and wearers of Nordic clothing, the continuing relevance of Ghana’s slit and kaba, the cultural resistance of the kebaya, and the journey and significance of Irish lace in early twentieth-century America. A study of Indonesian millennial menswear explores fashion’s mediation of national pride and personal identity. An updated edition of Queer Style revisits the evolving conversations around queerness and dress. These contributions challenge dominant fashion narratives and call for an increasingly thoughtful and culturally grounded vision on clothing promoting an approach that values integrity, adaptability and continuity over excess. The articles remind us that clothing can be a lived, shared and sustained experience, linking across time, the personal to the historical.
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- Articles
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‘Creating’ variety without waste: Pre-industrial dress practices as inspiration for updating the sustainability discourse
More LessThis study explores how ideas of variety were created and practised among women and men of different social strata in Norway and Sweden before the big changes in the second half of the nineteenth century. Three researchers with in-depth knowledge of clothing during that period look at their material through questions they developed based on current clothing and sustainability discourse. The material consists of both written (diaries, inventories, etc.) and oral sources and clothes. We look at acquisition and use of clothes in the period of 1780–1850 to understand how variety was achieved to discuss whether historical research can inform today’s debate on clothing and the environment. Despite strong limitations in terms of regulations for trade, strict dressing codes, expensive textiles and a restricted economy, variety was achieved. An important prerequisite was that the fabrics themselves were seen as valuable and durable, while the shape, trimmings, accessories and the like could be varied. Buying new ready-made clothes was not yet an option. Access to clothes and accessories was an intricate web involving both caring, sharing (lending, renting, inheritance and shared access) and alterations done by amateurs and professionals. The wardrobe was a well-planned system with movement between occasions and over time, consisting of clothes with different functions and temporalities. The present debate with an emphasis on circular economy solutions and the industry as the main stakeholder overlook clothing as a complex cultural and historical phenomenon. Variety in clothes can be achieved in much less resource-intensive ways by focusing on more valuable fabrics.
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Ghanaian women’s traditional dress: Exploring the symbolic meaning and utilization
More LessSocial change and globalization through colonization have had a profound impact on the choices of clothing and overall fashion taste among the Ghanaian population. The government of Ghana in a bid to promote the use of traditional local fabrics and garments initiated the National Friday Wear Programme in 2001. This initiative was to promote national pride and Ghanaian identity and to increase the use of traditional fabrics and garments. This research was to explore the symbolic meaning and use of the Ghanaian women’s traditional dress (slit and kaba). This article evaluates the effect of demographics on the symbolic meaning of traditional Ghanaian dress in a modern society and its implication on utilization. A cross-sectional survey with a quantitative approach was adopted to collect data from a sample of 500 women between the ages of 20 and 54 years, selected from two metropolitan centres (Accra and Takoradi) in Ghana. A self-administered questionnaire made up of closed and open-ended questions was used for this study. The findings revealed that the meanings attached to the traditional dress include cultural, ethnic and national identities, and highlights that age and education are associated factors in the representation of meaning in the use of the slit and kaba. This article fulfils the gap in literature on women’s traditional dress in Ghana at a time when the dress has seen increased usage which is an important indicator for the assessment of symbolic meaning and contributes to knowledge in clothing practices placing emphasis on the uses of dress within the social and cultural context.
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Embracing the new, cherishing the old: A phenomenological study of Gen X Indonesian women’s engagement with modern kebaya design
More LessAuthors: Maureen Tjahyadi, La Mani and Aurelia IntanThis article examines the way in which the identities of urban, Generation X (Gen X) Indonesian women are expressed through their use of modern kebaya. A traditional Indonesian garment that has adapted to social and technological advancements, the kebaya retains its cultural significance. A national dress that is worn for a variety of events and reflects both tradition and contemporary fashion trends, it has transformed from a symbol of nobility. This article focuses on changes in meaning, identity, cultural adaptation and non-verbal communication related to the modern kebaya. Using a phenomenological approach to explore the experiences of these women reflects their cultural identity and social values. Ten Gen X women who actively wear kebaya at various formal and informal events became respondents in this study. The main objective is to understand how these women balance tradition with modernity in their choice of kebaya and what this reveals about their cultural identity and values. The article specifically examined why Gen X women embrace modern kebaya styles and how they balance kebaya’s role as a symbol of traditional pride in a progressively modern society. This article utilizes Miles and Huberman’s data analysis. This technique thoroughly explores qualitative data gathered through interviews and observations, it supports thematic analysis of cultural symbols and personal identity expressions; offering insights into how Gen X women navigate the intersection of tradition and modern kebaya. This approach aims to contribute to a broader understanding of how traditional clothing such as kebaya evolves in response to contemporary lifestyle demands while maintaining its cultural significance.
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In search of Irish crochet lace: An object-based inquiry
More LessAuthors: Morgan R. Strzynski and Michael E. MampThis article explores the prevalence of Irish crochet lace in American fashion of the early twentieth century (c.1900–26). An extant object in a university collection of historic dress sparked interest, leading to this research, an attempt to understand what Irish crochet lace is and its use in American fashion. Print media of the time extensively reported the widespread appeal and sale of Irish crochet lace in America. By the 1920s, businesses capitalized on its growing popularity and presented imitation machine-made lace as authentic Irish crochet to deceive consumers and capitalize upon the appeal of the craft. In particular, Bardwil Bros.faced an extensive legal battle due to disingenuous business and marketing practices. A unique component of this inquiry was an analysis of three extant Irish crochet lace fashions held by the Louisiana State University (LSU) Textile & Costume Museum, further enriching this research.
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National pride as a motivator: A phenomenological approach of understanding Indonesian millennial men’s local clothing brands purchases
More LessAuthors: Devi Olivia Putra, Muhammad Aras, Julio Pasha Arigi and Syahril Adam PratamaThe Indonesian fashion industry is experiencing a dynamic transformation driven by a burgeoning youth market. While local menswear brands face intensified competition from global counterparts, understanding the intricacies of consumer behaviour is paramount for their success. This study delves into the motivations and preferences of Indonesian millennial male consumers, examining the interplay between national pride, brand perception and purchasing behaviour. Through a phenomenological study involving ten participants, we explored how these factors influence decisions regarding local menswear brands. Contrary to expectations, national pride emerged as a secondary motivator for consumer choices. While collaborations between local brands and national symbols, such as sports teams, can generate initial interest, consumer loyalty often rests with the team rather than the brand itself. Price and product quality emerged as primary determinants of purchasing decisions, with participants demonstrating a willingness to explore both local and foreign options. The findings underscore the importance of offering competitive pricing, superior quality and products that align with consumers’ personal styles. While nationalistic sentiments can be leveraged strategically, building a strong brand identity based on consumer preferences is crucial for long-term success in the Indonesian menswear market. By comprehending the evolving dynamics of this target market, local brands can enhance their competitive positioning and capitalize on growth opportunities.
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- Book Review
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Queer Style: Revised and Updated Edition, Including a Chapter on Trans* and Fluid Style, Adam Geczy and Vicki Karaminas (2024)
More LessReview of: Queer Style: Revised and Updated Edition, Including a Chapter on Trans* and Fluid Style, Adam Geczy and Vicki Karaminas (2024)
London: Bloomsbury, 318 pp.,
ISBN 978-1-35036-592-6, p/bk, GBP 24.99
ISBN 978-1-35036-593-3, h/bk, GBP 75.00
ISBN 978-1-35036-595-7, e-book, GBP 22.49
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