Spirals, spikes and spinning wheels: Temporal models challenging the sustainability agenda in relation to fast fashion consumption | Intellect Skip to content
1981
Sense of Time and Place
  • ISSN: 2050-0726
  • E-ISSN: 2050-0734

Abstract

Fast fashion has entered the political arena with specific reference to sustainability. To date the agenda has largely been informed by an examination of production methodologies and techniques documenting the rapid turnover of trends, the speed and efficiency of the production process and the lack of socially cohesive labour practices that it consistently engenders. Whilst governments seek to raise awareness and begin to generate initiatives to tackle the environmental fall out of fast fashion, this article turns its attention to the temporal patterns of consumer behaviour and why such a high percentage of what we buy is readily discarded soon after point of purchase. All stages in this linear model of consumption, it is argued, are shaped by a very specific relationship to time that ultimately informs our buying habits. Utilizing the work of the philosopher A. N. Whitehead and adopting a more psychosocial approach to fashion consumption, this article recognizes that even when purposefully seeking to consume sustainably, a greater need to align our use of time with a results-driven mindset locates the acquisition of something new as a highly achievable goal. As a consequence, rather than positioning the rationale for fashion purchases in the context of conspicuous consumption and emulation, here it functions to mitigate a lack of temporal control in other areas of our lives. In response, it is proposed that any successful attempts at tackling the problems associated with fast fashion must also seek to understand the temporal dynamics of consumption. For whilst governments’ attention is turned to ways to reduce the environmental impact associated with the production of clothing, increasing consumer demand derived from ‘neophilia’ will negate and indeed overturn any successes achieved. The conclusion will therefore suggest that promotional culture has a duty to explore ways in which it might engender greater emotional attachments to what we own. Future research into brand messaging, exploring the consequences of placing emphasis on quality over quantity and a subsequent potential deepening of a sense of brand loyalty, is also recommended as a way forward.

Loading

Article metrics loading...

/content/journals/10.1386/fspc_00098_1
2021-10-01
2024-05-01
Loading full text...

Full text loading...

References

  1. Adam, Barbara. ( 2003;), ‘ Reflexive modernization temporalized. ’, Theory, Culture & Society, 20:2, pp. 5978.
    [Google Scholar]
  2. Adam, Barbara. ( 2013;), ‘ Clocktime: Tyrannies and alternatives. ’, in A. Coote, and J. Franklin. (eds), Why We All Need a Shorter Working Week, London:: NEF;, pp. 3141.
    [Google Scholar]
  3. Bajari, Patrick, and Hortacsu, Ali. ( 2003;), ‘ The winner’s curse, reserve prices and endogenous entry: Empirical insights from eBay auctions. ’, The RAND Journal of Economics, 34:2, pp. 32955.
    [Google Scholar]
  4. Barker, Timothy S.. ( 2012), Time and the Digital, Hanover, NH:: Dartmouth College Press;.
    [Google Scholar]
  5. Booker, Christopher. ( 1970), The Neophiliacs, London:: Fontana;.
    [Google Scholar]
  6. Bourdieu, Pierre. ( [1965] 1996), Photography: A Middle-Brow Art, Cambridge:: Polity;.
    [Google Scholar]
  7. Bownan, Lisa. ( 2017;), ‘ One in six young people won’t wear an outfit again if its been seen on social media. ’, Metro, 15 November, https://metro.co.uk/2017/11/15/one-in-six-young-people-wont-wear-an-outfit-again-if-its-been-seen-on-social-media-7078444/. Accessed 11 June 2019.
    [Google Scholar]
  8. Campbell, Colin. ( 1987), The Romantic Ethic and the Spirit of Modern Consumerism, Oxford:: Blackwell;.
    [Google Scholar]
  9. Canadean ( 2016;), ‘ eBay Inc.: Retailing: Company profile, SWOT and financial analysis. ’, Canadean Company Reports, Basingstoke:: Canadean;.
    [Google Scholar]
  10. Carter, Michael. ( 2003), Fashion Classics: From Carlyle to Barthes, Oxford:: Berg;.
    [Google Scholar]
  11. Chapman, Jonathan. ( 2009), Emotionally Durable Design: Objects, Experiences and Empathy, London:: Earthscan;.
    [Google Scholar]
  12. Debord, Guy. ( 1995), The Society of the Spectacle (trans. D. Nicholson-Smith.), New York:: Zone Books;.
    [Google Scholar]
  13. Deleuze, Gilles. ( 1989), Cinema 2: The Time Image (trans. H. Tomlinson, and R. Galeta.), London:: Athlone Press;.
    [Google Scholar]
  14. Du Gay, Paul. ( 1997), Production of Culture/Cultures of Production, London:: Sage in association with The Open University;.
    [Google Scholar]
  15. Ellen MacArthur Foundation ( 2019), Completing the Picture: How the Circular Economy Tackles Climate Change, www.ellenmacarthurfoundation.org/publications. Accessed 15 January 2020.
    [Google Scholar]
  16. Fletcher, Kate. ( 2012;), ‘ Durability, fashion, sustainability: The processes and practices of use. ’, Fashion Practice, 4:2, pp. 22138.
    [Google Scholar]
  17. Giddens, Anthony. ( 1991), Modernity and Self-Identity: Self and Society in the Late Modern Age, Cambridge:: Polity Press;.
    [Google Scholar]
  18. Green, Chris. ( 2018;), ‘ Instagram and Facebook have “totally changed” the way people buy clothes in the age of the selfie. ’, The Independent , 15 October, https://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/fashion/news/instagram-and-facebook-have-totally-changed-way-people-buy-clothes-age-selfie-10419806.html. Accessed 20 July 2019.
  19. Hansard ( 2019;), vol. 663, 25 July, https://hansard.parliament.uk/. Accessed 3 September 2019.
  20. Harrison, Barbara. ( 2004;), ‘ Snap happy: Toward a sociology of “everyday” photography. ’, in C. J. Pole. (ed.), Seeing is Believing? Approaches to Visual Research, Amsterdam:: Elsevier;, pp. 2341.
    [Google Scholar]
  21. Hoffman, Eva. ( 2011), Time, London:: Profile Books;.
    [Google Scholar]
  22. House of Commons Environmental Audit Committee ( 2019), Fixing Fashion: Clothing Consumption and Sustainability, HC 1952 , 19 February, London:: House of Commons;.
    [Google Scholar]
  23. Hubbub ( 2017;), ‘ Faux. ’, November, https://www.hubbub.org.uk/faux-satire-fashion-magazine. Accessed 21 January 2019.
  24. Jahshan, Elias. ( 2019;), ‘ Boohoo half-year profits skyrockets 83%. ’, Retail Gazette , 25 September, www.retailgazette.co.uk/blog/2019/09/boohoo-half-year-profit-skyrockets-83. Accessed 2 February 2020.
  25. Lipovetsky, Giles. ( 2005), Hypermodern Times (trans. A. Brown.), Cambridge:: Polity;.
    [Google Scholar]
  26. Muratyan, Vahram. ( 2014), About Time: A Visual Memoir Around the Clock, London:: Little, Brown;.
    [Google Scholar]
  27. Powell, Helen. ( 2012), Stop the Clocks! Time and Narrative in Cinema, London:: I.B. Tauris;.
    [Google Scholar]
  28. Scott, Laurence. ( 2015), The Four-Dimensional Human: Ways of Being in the Digital World, London:: Windmill Books;.
    [Google Scholar]
  29. Simmel, Georg. ( [1904] 1971;), ‘ Fashion. ’, in D. Levine. (ed.), On Individuality and Social Forms: Selected Writings, Chicago, IL:: University of Chicago Press;.
    [Google Scholar]
  30. Sontag, Susan. ( 1979), On Photography, London:: Penguin;.
    [Google Scholar]
  31. Thompson, Edward P.. ( [1967] 1991;), ‘ Time, work-discipline and industrial capitalism. ’, in Customs in Common, London:: Merlin Press;, pp. 352404.
    [Google Scholar]
  32. Thompson, Michael. ( 2017), Rubbish Theory: The Creation and Destruction of Value, , New ed.. (foreward J. O. Reno) , London:: Pluto Press;.
    [Google Scholar]
  33. Tiidenberg, Katrin. ( 2018), Selfies: Why We Love (and Hate) Them, Bingley:: Emerald Publishing;.
    [Google Scholar]
  34. Veblen, Thorstein. ( [1899] 1994), The Theory of the Leisure Class, New York:: Dover Publications;.
    [Google Scholar]
  35. Wells, Liz. (ed.) ( 2001), Photography: A Critical Introduction, , 2nd ed.., London:: Routledge;.
    [Google Scholar]
  36. Whitehead, Alfred N.. ( 1920), The Concept of Nature, Cambridge:: Cambridge University Press;.
    [Google Scholar]
  37. Whitehead, Alfred N.. ( 1933), Adventures in Ideas, New York:: The Free Press;.
    [Google Scholar]
  38. Powell, Helen. ( 2021;), ‘ Spirals, spikes and spinning wheels: Temporal models challenging the sustainability agenda in relation to fast fashion consumption. ’, Fashion, Style & Popular Culture, 8:4, pp. 38797, https://doi.org/10.1386/fspc_00098_1
    [Google Scholar]
http://instance.metastore.ingenta.com/content/journals/10.1386/fspc_00098_1
Loading
This is a required field
Please enter a valid email address
Approval was a success
Invalid data
An error occurred
Approval was partially successful, following selected items could not be processed due to error