A framework to investigate the potential of brewery wastes’ utilization in eco-friendly leather production: A consumer study | Intellect Skip to content
1981
Volume 2, Issue 2
  • ISSN: 2754-026X
  • E-ISSN: 2754-0278

Abstract

The extensive utilization and increasing demand for leather and leather alternatives within the fashion industry has raised concerns surrounding ecosystems. To mitigate the environmental impact and excessive reliance on fossil fuels, a lot of effort has gone into substituting synthetic polymers with organic and biodegradable materials. As biotechnological revolution continues to better the leather industry, it is imperative to explore the potential of brewery waste as starting materials to respond to the environmental challenges and meet this demand backed by a framework for its bio-fabrication. An online survey was conducted to explore Australian consumers’ values, and experiences associated with leather and leather alternatives, and to identify their perception and expectations towards brewery waste-based leather as the determinants of its need and prospective fabrication based on the framework. The results indicate that consumers have high environmental awareness, expectations, and value inclination towards the credibility of brewery waste-based leather alternative based on their existing leather preferences. The study is the first to investigate the potentiality of brewery waste for its utilization in eco-friendly leather bio-fabrication in accordance with quantitative consumer research which collectively offers a valuable contribution to the literature by modifying the value-belief-norm (VBN) theory, theory of environmentalism, and by extending existing research on environmental innovation and product values to a preliminary framework for future lines of research within this field. The devised framework and the findings of this study can assist in the prospective development of an eco-friendly leather alternative derived from brewery waste. Overall, this work theoretically demonstrates that brewery waste could bridge the gap in the market regarding the need for a greener supply chain as well as a source of material that facilitates the production of an improved alternative to leather in line with the changing demands of the market and the increase in environmental degradation.

Loading

Article metrics loading...

/content/journals/10.1386/sft_00031_1
2023-09-08
2024-05-02
Loading full text...

Full text loading...

References

  1. Amstutz, Aron K., Haverhals, Luke M., Amstutz, Isaiah, Clement, Skylar (2021), ‘Curative and method’, Justia Patent, 5 January, https://patents.justia.com/patent/10882951. Accessed 2 June 2022.
  2. Baskin, Brian (2018), ‘How biotechnology is reshaping fashion’, Business of Fashion, 1 October, https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/technology/how-biotechnology-is-reshaping-fashion/. Accessed 26 March 2022.
  3. Beesigamukama, Dennis, Mochoge, Benson, Korir, Nicholas K., Fiaboe, Komi K. M., Nakimbugwe, Dorothy, Khamis, Fathiya M., Subramanian, Sevgan, Wangu, Musyoka M., Dubois, Thomas, Ekesi, Sunday and Tanga, Chrysantus M. (2021), ‘Low-cost technology for recycling agro-industrial waste into nutrient-rich organic fertilizer using black soldier fly’, Waste Management, 119, pp. 18394.
    [Google Scholar]
  4. Chan, Emily (2021), ‘Is your leather bag causing deforestation in the Amazon rainforest?’, British Vogue, 11 December, https://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/article/leather-deforestation-amazon-rainforest. Accessed 23 December 2022.
    [Google Scholar]
  5. Chen, Mei-Fang (2015), ‘An examination of the value-belief-norm theory model in predicting pro-environmental behaviour in Taiwan: The value-belief-norm (VBN) theory model in predicting pro-environmental behaviour’, Asian Journal of Social Psychology, 18:1, pp. 14551.
    [Google Scholar]
  6. Choi, Yeong-Hyeon and Lee, Kyu-Hye (2021), ‘Ethical consumers’ awareness of vegan materials: Focused on fake fur and fake fur leather’, Sustainability, 13:1, https://doi.org/10.3390/su13010436.
    [Google Scholar]
  7. Dai, Lixin, Borden, Julia, Nelson, Jeffery and Jass, Kristen R. (2019), ‘Yeast strains and methods for producing collagen’, European Patent Office, 24 April, https://patents.google.com/patent/EP3473647A1/en. Accessed 26 March 2022.
  8. DataIntelo (2020), ‘Leather handbag market size, share, trends report 2020–2026’, https://dataintelo.com/report/leather-handbag-market/. Accessed 13 May 2022.
  9. Demeneix, Barbara A. (2020), ‘How fossil fuel-derived pesticides and plastics harm health, biodiversity, and the climate’, The Lancet Diabetes and Endocrinology, 8:6, pp. 46264.
    [Google Scholar]
  10. Euromonitor International (2021), Megatrends in Australia, https://www.euromonitor.com/megatrends-in-australia/report. Accessed 13 May 2022.
    [Google Scholar]
  11. Farcas, Anca Corina, Socaci, Sonia Ancuta, Mudura, Elena, Dulf, Francisc Vasile, Vodnar, Dan C., Tofana, Maria and Salanta, Liana Claudia (2017), ‘Exploitation of brewing industry wastes to produce functional ingredients’, in M. Kanauchi (ed.), Brewing Technology, Rijeka: Intech, n.pag., https://doi.org/10.5772/intechopen.69231.
    [Google Scholar]
  12. Fela, Katarzyna, Wieczorek-Ciurowa, Krystyna, Konopoka, Michal and Wozny, Zenon (2011), ‘Present and prospective leather industry waste disposal’, Polish Journal of Chemical Technology, 13:3, pp. 5355.
    [Google Scholar]
  13. Ferreira, Isabel-Mplvo, Pinho, Olivia-Castro, Vieira, Elsa F. and Tavarela, J.-G. (2010), ‘Brewer’s Saccharomyces yeast biomass: Characteristics and potential applications’, Trends in Food Science & Technology, 21:2, pp. 7784.
    [Google Scholar]
  14. Fossil Fashion (2021), ‘The hidden reliance of fast fashion on fossil fuels’, Changing Markets, February, https://changingmarkets.org/portfolio/fossil-fashion/. Accessed 26 March 2022.
  15. Ghazali, Ezlika M., Nguyen, Bang, Mutum, Dilip S. and Yap, Su-Fei (2019), ‘Pro-environmental behaviours and value-belief-norm theory: Assessing unobserved heterogeneity of two ethnic groups’, Sustainability, 11:12, https://doi.org/10.3390/su11123237.
    [Google Scholar]
  16. Gomes, Antonio Milton Vieira, Carmo, Talita Souza, Carhalvo, Lucas Silva, Bahia, Frederico Mendonca and Parachin, Nadia Skorupa (2018), ‘Comparison of yeasts as hosts for recombinant protein production’, Microorganisms, 6:2, https://doi.org/10.3390/microorganisms6020038.
    [Google Scholar]
  17. Gomes, Giovana Monteiro, Moreira, Natalie, Bouman, Thijs, Ometto, Aldo Roberto and Werff, Ellen Van Der (2022), ‘Towards circular economy for more sustainable apparel consumption: Testing the value-belief-norm theory in Brazil and in the Netherlands’, Sustainability, 14:2, https://doi.org/10.3390/su14020618.
    [Google Scholar]
  18. IBISWorld (2023a), ‘Price of leather’, 9 February, https://www.ibisworld.com/us/bed/price-of-leather/4278/. Accessed 26 March 2023.
  19. IBISWorld (2023b), ‘Beer manufacturing in Australia: Market size 2008–2029’, 21 March, https://www.ibisworld.com/au/market-size/beer-manufacturing/. Accessed 26 March 2023.
  20. Ikram, Sana, Huang, lianyan, Zhang, Huijuan, Wang, Jing and Yin, Meng (2017), ‘Composition and nutrient value proposition of brewers spent grain’, Journal of Food Science, 82:10, pp. 223242.
    [Google Scholar]
  21. Jacob, Friedrich Felix, Striegel, Lisa, Rychlik, Michael, Hutzler, Mathias and Methner, Frank-Jurgen (2019), ‘Spent yeast from brewing processes: A biodiverse starting material for yeast extract production’, Fermentation, 5:2, https://doi.org/10.3390/fermentation5020051.
    [Google Scholar]
  22. Jaeger, Alice, Arendt, Elke K., Zannini, Emanuele and Sahin, Aylin W. (2020), ‘Brewer’s spent yeast (BSY), an underutilised brewing by-product’, Fermentation, 6:4, https://doi.org/10.3390/fermentation6040123.
    [Google Scholar]
  23. Jung, Hye-Jung and Oh, Kyung-Wha (2019), ‘Exploring the sustainability concepts regarding leather apparel in China and South Korea’, Sustainability, 11:19, https://doi.org/10.3390/su11195389.
    [Google Scholar]
  24. Karlovic, Andrea, Juric, Anita, Coric, Nevena, Habschied, Kristina, Krstanovic, Vinko and Mastanjevic, Kresimir (2020), ‘By-products in the malting and brewing industries-re-usage possibilities’, Fermentation, 6:3, https://doi.org/10.3390/fermentation6030082.
    [Google Scholar]
  25. Kim, Hae-Jung, Kim, Ji-Young, Oh, Kyung-Wha and Jung, Hye-Jung (2016), ‘Adoption of eco-friendly faux leather: Examining consumer attitude with the value-belief-norm framework’, Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 34:4, pp. 23956.
    [Google Scholar]
  26. Kopec, Michal, Hersztek, Monika-Mierzwa, Gondek, Krzysztof, Koladka, Katarzyna-Wolny, Zdaniewicz, Marek and Jarosz, Renata (2020), ‘Biological activity of composts obtained from hop waste generated during the brewing’, Biomass Conversion and Biorefinery, 12, pp. 127179.
    [Google Scholar]
  27. Latif, Farah Ezzah A., Abidin, Zurina Zainal, Cardona, Francisco, Biak, Dayang R., Awang, Abdan K., Tahir, Paridah Mohd and Ern, Liew Kan (2020), ‘Bio-resin production through ethylene unsaturated carbon using vegetable oils’, Processes, 8:1, https://doi.org/10.3390/pr8010048.
    [Google Scholar]
  28. Liao, Zhongju and Liu, Yan (2020), ‘What drives environmental innovation? A meta-analysis’, Business Strategy and the Environment, 30:4, pp. 185264.
    [Google Scholar]
  29. Mammadova, Aynur, Behagel, Jelle, Masiero, Mauro and Pettenella, Davide (2022), ‘Deforestation as a systemic risk: The case of Brazilian bovine leather’, Forests, 13:2, https://doi.org/10.3390/f13020233.
    [Google Scholar]
  30. Martin, D. San, Orive, M., Inara, B., Castelo, J., Estevez, A., Nazzaro, J., Iloro, I., Elortza, F. and Zufia, J. (2020), ‘Brewers’ spent yeast and grain protein hydrolysates as second-generation feedstuff for aquaculture feed’, Waste and Biomass Valorization, 11:10, pp. 530720.
    [Google Scholar]
  31. Mavrodin, Madalina, Lazaroiu, Gheorghe and Mocanu, R. (2015), ‘Leather carbon footprint’, in L. Mihăescu and G.-P. Negreanu (eds), Fourth International Conference on Thermal Equipment, Renewable Energy and Rural Development, Posada Vidraru, Romania, June, Bucharest: Politehnica Press, pp. 45962.
    [Google Scholar]
  32. Meyer, Michael, Dietrich, Sascha, Schulz, Haiko and Mondschein, Anke (2021), ‘Comparison of technical performance of leather, artificial leather, and trendy alternatives’, Coatings, 11:2, https://doi.org/10.3390/coatings11020226.
    [Google Scholar]
  33. Minh, Nhut-Tran and Ngan, Ha-Ngo (2021), ‘Vegan leather: An eco-friendly material for sustainable fashion towards environmental awareness’, AIP Conference Proceedings, 2406, September, https://doi.org/10.1063/5.0066483.
    [Google Scholar]
  34. Modern Meadow (2022), ‘Technology’, https://www.modernmeadow.com/technology. Accessed 26 March 2022.
  35. Mwondu, Joel Musyoka, Ombui, Jackson Nyarongi, Kironchi, Geoffrey and Onyuka, Arthur (2021), ‘Development of an eco-friendly and sustainable method of dechroming leather wastes’, Textile & Leather Review Journal, 4, pp. 36491.
    [Google Scholar]
  36. Olajire, Abass A. (2012), ‘The brewing industry and environmental challenges’, Journal of Cleaner Production, 256, https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2012.03.003.
    [Google Scholar]
  37. Pradhan, Debashish, Mahanty, Arabinda, Mohanty, Sasmita, Samantaray, Kasturi and Mohanty, Bimal-Prasanna (2022), ‘Brewer’s spent yeast replacement in carp diet leads to muscle biomass production, recycling, waste management and resource conservation’, Research Square, online first, https://doi.org/10.21203/rs.3.rs-1569312/v1.
    [Google Scholar]
  38. Pringle, T., Barwood, Michael J. and Rahimifard, Shahin (2016), ‘The challenges in achieving a circular economy within leather recycling’, Procedia CIRP, 48, pp. 54449.
    [Google Scholar]
  39. Quijano, Luis, Speight, Robert and Payne, Alice (2021), ‘Future fashion, biotechnology and the living world: Microbial cell factories and forming new “oddkins”’, Continuum Journal of Media & Cultural Studies, 35:6, pp. 897913.
    [Google Scholar]
  40. Rachwal, Kamila, Wasko, Adam, Gustaw, Klaudia and Berecka, Magdalena-Polak (2020), ‘Utilization of brewery waste in food industry’, PeerJ, 8, https://doi.org/10.7717/peerj.9427.
    [Google Scholar]
  41. Rensburg, Melissa Lisa Van, Nkomo, S’phumelele Lucky and Mkhize, Ntandoyenkosi Malusi (2021), ‘Characterization and pyrolysis of post-consumer leather shoe waste for the recovery of valuable chemicals’, Detritus, 14, pp. 92107.
    [Google Scholar]
  42. Roberston, James A., I’Anson, Kerry J. A., Treimo, Janneke, Faulds, Craig B., Brocklehurst, Tim F., Eijsink, Vincent G. H. and Waldron, Keith W. (2010), ‘Profiling brewers’ spent grain for composition and microbial ecology at the site of production’, Food Science and Technology, 43:6, pp. 89096.
    [Google Scholar]
  43. Saha, Nabanita, Ngwahbhebho, Fahanwi Asabuwa, Nguyen, Hau Trung and Saha, Petr (2020), ‘Environmentally friendly and animal free leather: Fabrication and characterisation’, AIP Conference Proceedings, 2289, https://doi.org/10.1063/5.0028467.
    [Google Scholar]
  44. Smith, P. (2022), ‘Global market value of leather goods forecast from 2016 until 2021’, Statista, 13 January, https://www.statista.com/statistics/861562/leather-goods-market-value-worldwide/. Accessed 23 March 2022.
  45. Stewart, Graham G. (2016), ‘Saccharomyces species in the production of beer’, Beverages, 2:4, https://doi.org/10.3390/beverages2040034.
    [Google Scholar]
  46. Suman, Thodal Yoganandham, Li, Wei-Guo, Alif, Shaji, Faris, Valappil Rahman Panangala, Amarnath, Duvvuru Joshua, Ma, Jun-Guo and Pei, De-Sheng (2020), ‘Characterization of petroleum-based plastics and their absorbed trace metals from the sediments of the Marina Beach in Chennai, India’, Environmental Sciences Europe, 32, https://doi.org/10.1186/s12302-020-00388-5.
    [Google Scholar]
  47. Stand.earth (2021), ‘Nowhere to hide: How the fashion industry is linked to Amazon rainforest destruction’, 29 November, https://stand.earth/resources/nowhere-to-hide-how-the-fashion-industry-is-linked-to-amazon-rainforest-destruction/. Accessed 21 December 2022.
  48. Vandelook, Simon, Elsacker, Elise, Wylick, Aurelie Van, Laet, Lars De and Peeters, Eveline (2021), ‘Current state and prospects of pure mycelium materials’, Fungal Biology and Biotechnology, 8:1, https://doi.org/10.1186/s40694-021-00128-1.
    [Google Scholar]
  49. Waltz, Emily (2022), ‘Bio-leather gears up to wow fashion industry’, Nature Biotechnology, 40:3, pp. 28789.
    [Google Scholar]
  50. Wicker, Alden (2019), ‘Fashion’s long hunt for the perfect vegan leather’, Vogue Business, 17 June, https://www.voguebusiness.com/technology/vegan-faux-leather-stella-mccartney-prada-versace. Accessed 26 March 2022.
    [Google Scholar]
  51. Wiecek, Annika, Wentzel, Daniel and Landwehr, Jan R. (2019), ‘The aesthetic fidelity effect’, International Journal of Research in Marketing, 36:4, pp. 54257.
    [Google Scholar]
  52. Yao, Qiong and Fang, Heng (2018), ‘Does environmental innovation produce license: A customer-based brand equity perspective’, American Journal of Industrial and Business Management, 8:1, pp. 10328.
    [Google Scholar]
  53. Zhang, Qingyu, Chanke, Huang, Yumei, Wei, Qi, Zhu, Weili, Tian and Cui, Wang (2013), ‘Risk assessment of N,N-dimethylformamide on residents living near synthetic leather factories’, Environmental Science and Pollution Research International, 21:5, pp. 353439.
    [Google Scholar]
  54. Zhang, Xiaoyun and Dong, Feng (2020), ‘Why do consumers make green purchase decisions? Insights from a systematic review’, International Journal of Environmental Research and Public Health, 17:18, https://doi.org/10.3390/ijerph17186607.
    [Google Scholar]
http://instance.metastore.ingenta.com/content/journals/10.1386/sft_00031_1
Loading
/content/journals/10.1386/sft_00031_1
Loading

Data & Media loading...

This is a required field
Please enter a valid email address
Approval was a success
Invalid data
An error occurred
Approval was partially successful, following selected items could not be processed due to error