The role of different stakeholders in the transition to a sustainable fashion industry in Europe | Intellect Skip to content
1981
Volume 2, Issue 2
  • ISSN: 2754-026X
  • E-ISSN: 2754-0278

Abstract

Today’s fashion industry is among the most unsustainable industries on the planet, responsible for around 3–5 per cent of global carbon emissions. Theory and literature show that making this industry more sustainable is possible by implementing circular economy (CE) principles and new technological developments along the entire value chain, but in practice there is still considerable reluctance and ignorance about implementing more sustainable practices in fashion. This article studies the role of different stakeholders in fostering the transition to a more sustainable fashion industry in Europe. We do this by using a conceptual framework with four groups of actors, namely companies, consumers, public authorities and NGOs. A literature review is supplemented with qualitative case studies of five Belgian companies active in the fashion industry and two public circular platforms. The study first reveals a clear lack of knowledge and information about circularity, both among companies and consumers. Knowledge dissemination should be considered a first important instrument for change. NGOs and public authorities can play an important role in creating social awareness and drawing attention to the issue. Furthermore, public authorities should create the necessary financial, economic and legal framework to stimulate sustainable business models and accelerate change in consumption patterns. The cases we have studied use one or a combination of sustainable practices, ranging from more sustainable design and material choices up to reuse and repair options, but they are still searching for an economically viable model in the longer term. Our study also shows that the realization of circular business models and its success largely depends on the interaction between the different stakeholders. The new EU strategy for sustainable and circular textiles is a first promising step in this direction. The next crucial challenge will be to put this EU strategy successfully into practice. The transition to a sustainable fashion industry will require both substantial investments and conviction from all stakeholders, but this will pay off in the long run.

Loading

Article metrics loading...

/content/journals/10.1386/sft_00032_1
2023-09-08
2024-05-02
Loading full text...

Full text loading...

References

  1. Amed, I., Berg, A., Balchandani, A., Hedrich, S., Rölkens, F., Young, R. and Poojara, S. (2019), The State of Fashion 2019, https://www.mckinsey.com/~/media/mckinsey/industries/retail/our%20insights/the%20state%20of%20fashion%202019%20a%20year%20of%20awakening/the-state-of-fashion-2019-final.ashx. Accessed 20 October 2022.
    [Google Scholar]
  2. Berg, A., Granskog, A., Lee, L. and Magnus, K. (2020), ‘Fashion on climate’, https://www.mckinsey.com/industries/retail/our-insights/fashion-on-climate. Accessed 10 November 2021.
    [Google Scholar]
  3. Bottu, S., Florizoone, S., Geysels, L., Merckx, J., Sel, S. and Sys, L. (2020), Circular Logistics for the Textile Sector, Berchem: VIL, https://vil.be/wp-content/uploads/2020/06/2020-CiloTEX-Circulaire-Logistiek-voor-de-Textielindustrie.pdf. Accessed 15 November 2021.
    [Google Scholar]
  4. Bouteligier, S., Lafond, E. and Wynants, J. (2020), ‘Roundtable: Time for policy – Circular fashion and textiles 29/10/20 report’, https://ovam.vlaanderen.be/circulaire-mode-en-textiel. Accessed 18 November 2021.
  5. Brenot, A., Chuffart, C., Coste-Manière, I., Deroche, M., Godat, E., Lemoine, L., Ramchandani, M., Sette, E. and Tornaire, C. (2019), ‘Water footprint in fashion and luxury industry’, Water in Textiles and Fashion, London: Elsevier, pp. 95113.
    [Google Scholar]
  6. Brydges, T. (2021), ‘Closing the loop on take, make, waste: Investigating circular economy practices in the Swedish fashion industry’, Journal of Cleaner Production, 293, https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2021.126245.
    [Google Scholar]
  7. [Google Scholar]
  8. Capture (n.d.), ‘#Together we become circular’, https://capture-resources.be. Accessed 7 May 2022.
  9. Chaturvedi, P., Kulshreshtha, K. and Tripathi, V. (2020), ‘Investigating the determinants of behavioral intentions of generation Z for recycled clothing: An evidence from a developing economy’, Young Consumers, 21:4, pp. 40317, https://doi.org/10.1108/yc-03-2020-1110.
    [Google Scholar]
  10. Clean Clothes Campaign (n.d.), ‘Campaigns’, https://cleanclothes.org/campaigns. Accessed 24 April 2022.
  11. Cobbing, M. and Vicaire, Y. (2018), ‘Destination zero: Seven years of detoxing the clothing industry’, July, https://www.greenpeace.org/static/planet4-international-stateless/2018/07/destination_zero_report_july_2018.pdf. Accessed 8 January 2022.
  12. De Aguiar Hugo, A., De Nadae, J. and Da Silva Lima, R. (2021), ‘Can fashion be circular? A literature review on circular economy barriers, drivers, and practices in the fashion industry’s productive chain’, Sustainability, 13:21, https://doi.org/10.3390/su132112246.
    [Google Scholar]
  13. Deselnicu, D. C., Militaru, G., Deselnicu, V., Zăinescu, G. and Albu, L. (2018), ‘Towards a circular economy: A zero waste program for Europe’, 7th International Conference on Advanced Materials and Systems, Bucharest, ICAMS, 18–20 October, pp. 56368, https://www.researchgate.net/publication/328682998_Towards_a_Circular_Economy-_a_Zero_Waste_Programme_for_Europe. Accessed 26 October 2022.
    [Google Scholar]
  14. Diddi, S., Yan, R. N., Bloodhart, B., Bajtelsmit, V. and McShane, K. (2019), ‘Exploring young adult consumers’ sustainable clothing consumption intention-behavior gap: A behavioral reasoning theory perspective’, Sustainable Production and Consumption, 18, pp. 20009, https://doi.org/10.1016/j.spc.2019.02.009.
    [Google Scholar]
  15. Ecopreneur (2019), ‘Circular fashion advocacy. A strategy towards a circular fashion industry in Europe’, https://ecopreneur.eu/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/EcoP-Circular-Fashion-Advocacy-Report-28-3-19.pdf. Accessed 25 November 2021.
  16. Ellen MacArthur Foundation (2015), ‘Towards a circular economy: Business rationale for an accelerated transition’, November, https://emf.thirdlight.com/link/ip2fh05h21it-6nvypm/@/preview/1?o. Accessed 25 November 2021.
  17. Ellen MacArthur Foundation (2017), ‘A new textiles economy: Redesigning fashion’s future’, https://www.ellenmacarthurfoundation.org/assets/downloads/publications/A-New-Textiles-Economy_Full-Report.pdf. Accessed 25 November 2021.
  18. Ellen MacArthur Foundation (n.d.), ‘Rethinking business models for a thriving fashion industry’, https://ellenmacarthurfoundation.org/fashion-business-models/overview. Accessed 23 April 2022.
  19. European Commission (2015), ‘Coming full circle: An EU action plan for the circular economy’, https://www.eerstekamer.nl/eu/europeesvoorstel/com_2015_614_commissiemededeling/document/f=x.pdf. Accessed 26 November 2021.
  20. European Commission (2020), ‘A new way of producing and consuming: A new circular economy action plan points the way to a climate-neutral, competitive economy with stronger consumers’, 11 March, https://ec.europa.eu/commission/presscorner/detail/nl/ip_20_420. Accessed 20 November 2021.
  21. European Commission (2022a), ‘EU strategy for sustainable and circular textiles’, https://eur-lex.europa.eu/legal-content/EN/TXT/?uri=CELEX%3A52022DC0141. Accessed 20 April 2022.
  22. European Commission (2022b), ‘Green Deal: New proposals to make sustainable products the norm and reduce Europe’s resource dependence’, 30 March, https://ec.europa.eu/commission/presscorner/detail/nl/ip_22_2013. Accessed 4 April 2022.
  23. European Commission (n.d.), ‘A European green deal’, https://ec.europa.eu/info/strategy/priorities-2019-2024/european-green-deal_nl. Accessed 26 November 2021.
  24. European Investment Bank (EIB) (2020), ‘The EIB circular economy guide’, https://www.eib.org/attachments/thematic/circular_economy_guide_en.pdf. Accessed 8 January 2022.
  25. Fashion Revolution (n.d.), ‘About’, https://www.fashionrevolution.org/about. Accessed 24 April 2022.
  26. Flanders DC (2021), ‘SCIRT: On innovation journey towards circular fashion’, 30 August, https://www.flandersdc.be/nl/magazine/scirt-modemerken-en-onderzoeksinstellingen-op-innovatietocht-naar-circulaire-mode. Accessed 8 January 2022.
  27. Flanders DC (2022), ‘Close the loop’, https://www.flandersdc.be/nl/gids/tools/mode/close-the-loop. Accessed 8 January 2022.
  28. Flanders DC and Flanders Circular (2022), ‘Putting theory into practice’, https://www.close-the-loop.be/en/network/network-more-info. Accessed 23 April 2022.
  29. Freudenreich, B. and Schaltegger, S. (2020), ‘Developing sufficiency-oriented offerings for clothing users: Business approaches to support consumption reduction’, Journal of Cleaner Production, 247, https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2019.119589.
    [Google Scholar]
  30. Gazzola, P., Pavione, E., Pezzetti, R. and Grechi, D. (2020), ‘Trends in the fashion industry. The perception of sustainability and circular economy – A gender/generation quantitative approach’, Sustainability, 12:7, https://doi.org/10.3390/su12072809.
    [Google Scholar]
  31. Gillabel, J., Manshoven, S., Grossi, F., Mortensen, L. F. and Coscieme, L. (2021), ‘Business models in a circular economy’, https://www.eionet.europa.eu/etcs/etc-wmge/products/etc-wmge-reports/business-models-in-a-circular-economy. Accessed 23 April 2022.
  32. Gramberger, M., Zellmer, K., Kok, K. and Metzger, M. (2014), ‘Stakeholder integrated research (STIR): A new approach tested in climate change adaptation research’, Climatic Change, 128:3, pp. 20114.
    [Google Scholar]
  33. Green Public Procurement Netherlands (n.d.), ‘GPP criteria for IT government’, https://greenpublicprocurement.nl. Accessed 23 April 2022.
  34. Hanemaaijer, A., Hekkert, M., Potting, J. and Worrell, E. (2016), ‘Circular economy: Measuring innovation in the chain’, https://www.pbl.nl/sites/default/files/downloads/pbl-2016-circulaire-economie-innovatie-meten-in-de-keten_2249.pdf. Accessed 15 November 2021.
  35. Hingorani, K., Maiti, K., Patwa, N., Sarkar, S., Seetharaman, A. and Sivarajah, U. (2021), ‘Towards a circular economy: An emerging economies context’, Journal of Business Research, 122, pp. 72535, https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jbusres.2020.05.015.
    [Google Scholar]
  36. Jacometti, V. (2019), ‘Circular economy and waste in the fashion industry’, Laws, 8:4, https://doi.org/10.3390/laws8040027.
    [Google Scholar]
  37. James, A. M., Reitsma, L. and Aftab, M. (2019), ‘Bridging the double-gap in circularity. Addressing the intention-behavior disparity in fashion’, Design Journal, 22:sup1, pp. 90114, https://doi.org/10.1080/14606925.2019.1595407.
    [Google Scholar]
  38. Jung, S. and Jin, B. (2016), ‘Sustainable development of slow fashion businesses: Customer value approach’, Sustainability, 8:6, https://doi.org/10.3390/su8060540.
    [Google Scholar]
  39. Kirchherr, J., Hekkert, M., Bour, R., Huibrechtse-Truijens, A., Kostense-Smit, E. and Muller, J. (2017), ‘Breaking the barriers to the circular economy’, https://circulareconomy.europa.eu/platform/sites/default/files/171106_white_paper_breaking_the_barriers_to_the_circular_economy_white_paper_vweb-14021.pdf. Accessed 16 December 2021.
  40. Kirchherr, J., Reike, D. and Hekkert, M. (2017), ‘Conceptualizing the circular economy: An analysis of 114 definitions’, Resources, Conservation and Recycling, 127, pp. 22132, https://doi.org/10.1016/j.resconrec.2017.09.005.
    [Google Scholar]
  41. Lhotellier, J., Less, E., Bossanne, E. and Pesnel, S. (2018), ‘Modélisation et évaluation ACV de produits de consommation et biens d’équipement’, http://www.rdcenvironment.be/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/acv-biens-equipements-201809-rapport.pdf. Accessed 12 November 2021.
  42. Li, Y., Zhao, X., Shi, D. and Li, X. (2014), ‘Governance of sustainable supply chains in the fast fashion industry’, European Management Journal, 32:5, pp. 82336, https://doi.org/10.1016/j.emj.2014.03.001.
    [Google Scholar]
  43. Liantis (2008), ‘Nacebel codes’, https://www.liantis.be/nacebel/nl. Accessed 28 November 2021.
  44. MacGregor, R., Pelikanova, R. and Nemeckova, T. (2021), ‘CSR statements in international and Czech luxury fashion industry at the onset and during the COVID-19 pandemic: Slowing down the fast fashion business?’, Sustainability, 13:7, https://doi.org/10.3390/su13073715.
    [Google Scholar]
  45. Malik Chua, J. (2018), ‘Circularity: Sustainable fashion’s holy grail or greenwashing?’, https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/sustainability/circular-economy-the-holy-grail-of-sustainable-fashion. Accessed 24 April 2022.
  46. Manninen, K., Koskela, S., Antikainen, R., Bocken, N., Dahlbo, H. and Aminoff, A. (2018), ‘Do circular economy business models capture intended environmental value propositions?’, Journal of Cleaner Production, 171, pp. 41322, https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2017.10.003.
    [Google Scholar]
  47. McKinsey (2022), ‘Scaling textile recycling in Europe: Turning waste into value’, 14 July, https://www.mckinsey.com/industries/retail/our-insights/scaling-textile-recycling-in-europe-turning-waste-into-value. Accessed 20 July 2022.
  48. McNeill, L. and Moore, R. (2015), ‘Sustainable fashion consumption and the fast fashion conundrum: Fashionable consumers and attitudes to sustainability in clothing choice’, International Journal of Consumer Studies, 21 February, https://doi.org/10.1111/ijcs.12169.
    [Google Scholar]
  49. Moorhouse, D. and Moorhouse, D. (2017), ‘Sustainable design: Circular economy in fashion and textiles’, Design Journal, 20:sup1, pp. S194859, https://doi.org/10.1080/14606925.2017.1352713.
    [Google Scholar]
  50. Nauwelaerts, Y. (2021), Qualitative Research Methods, Campus Antwerp: KU Leuven.
    [Google Scholar]
  51. OVAM (2018), ‘The contribution of the circular economy to climate policy’, https://emis.vito.be/sites/emis.vito.be/files/articles/3331/2019/Achtergronddocument-Klimaat-CE.pdf. Accessed 20 November 2021.
  52. PWC (2019), ‘The road to circularity: Why a circular economy is becoming the new normal’, https://www.pwc.de/de/nachhaltigkeit/pwc-circular-economy-study-2019.pdf. Accessed 19 December 2021.
  53. Rahman, O. and Koszewska, M. (2020), ‘A study of consumer choice between sustainable and non-sustainable apparel cues in Poland’, Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, 24:2, pp. 21334.
    [Google Scholar]
  54. Roos, S., Arturin, L. O. and Hanning, A.-C. (2017), ‘Microplastics shedding from polyester fabrics’, http://www.mistrafuturefashion.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/MFF-Report-Microplastics.pdf. Accessed 26 November 2021.
  55. Smeys, E. (2022), in-person interview with investor and operational manager of Wearable Stories, Antwerp, 17 March.
  56. Thomson, C. (2013), ‘Sustainability’, in S. Idowu, N. Capaldi, L. Zu and A. Gupta (eds), Encyclopedia of Corporate Social Responsibility, Berlin: Springer Reference, pp. 235863.
    [Google Scholar]
  57. Todeschini, B. V., Cortimiglia, M. N., Callegaro-de-Menezes, D. and Ghezzi, A. (2017), ‘Innovative and sustainable business models in the fashion industry: Entrepreneurial drivers, opportunities, and challenges’, Business Horizons, 60:6, pp. 75970, https://doi.org/10.1016/j.bushor.2017.07.003.
    [Google Scholar]
  58. United Nations Environment Programme (2020), Sustainability and Circularity in the Textile Value Chain: Global Stocktaking, Paris: United Nations Environment Programme, https://wedocs.unep.org/20.500.11822/34184. Accessed 6 July 2023.
    [Google Scholar]
  59. Van Buren, N., Demmers, M., Van der Heijden, R. and Witlox, F. (2016), ‘Towards a circular economy: The role of Dutch logistics industries and governments’, Sustainability, 8:7, https://doi.org/10.3390/su8070647.
    [Google Scholar]
  60. Vanclay, F. and Hanna, P. (2019), ‘Conceptualizing company response to community protest: Principles to achieve a social license to operate’, Land, 8:6, p. 101, https://doi.org/10.3390/land8060101.
    [Google Scholar]
  61. Waal, E. (2019), ‘Schroders: Switching to sustainable clothing has huge impact on textile industry’, https://www.financialinvestigator.nl/nl/nieuws-detailpagina/2019/04/12/Schroders-Overstappen-naar-duurzame-kleding-heeft-enorme-gevolgen-voor-de-textielindustrie. Accessed 27 November 2021.
  62. Wang, B., Luo, W., Zhang, A., Tian, Z. and Li, Z. (2020), ‘Blockchain-enabled circular supply chain management: A system architecture for fast fashion’, Computers in Industry, 123, https://doi.org/10.1016/j.compind.2020.103324.
    [Google Scholar]
  63. Wiederhold, M. and Martinez, L. F. (2018), ‘Ethical consumer behavior in Germany: The attitude-behavior gap in the green apparel industry’, International Journal of Consumer Studies, 42:4, pp. 41929, https://doi.org/10.1111/ijcs.12435.
    [Google Scholar]
  64. Witjes, S. and Lozano, R. (2016), ‘Towards a more circular economy: Proposing a framework linking sustainable public procurement and sustainable business models’, Resources, Conservation and Recycling, 112, pp. 3744, https://doi.org/10.1016/j.resconrec.2016.04.015.
    [Google Scholar]
  65. Zhao, R. and Zhong, S. (2015), ‘Carbon labelling influences on consumers’ behavior: A system dynamics approach’, Ecological Indicators, 51, pp. 98106, https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ecolind.2014.08.030.
    [Google Scholar]
http://instance.metastore.ingenta.com/content/journals/10.1386/sft_00032_1
Loading
/content/journals/10.1386/sft_00032_1
Loading

Data & Media loading...

This is a required field
Please enter a valid email address
Approval was a success
Invalid data
An error occurred
Approval was partially successful, following selected items could not be processed due to error