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Fashion, Style & Popular Culture - Online First
Online First articles will be assigned issues in due course.
21 - 40 of 70 results
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Gastrofashion: From Haute Cuisine to Haute Couture, Adam Geczy and Vicki Karaminas (2022)
By Lara RössigAvailable online: 25 November 2023More LessReview of: Gastrofashion: From Haute Cuisine to Haute Couture, Adam Geczy and Vicki Karaminas (2022)
London: Bloomsbury Publishing, 248 pp.,
ISBN 978-1-35014-750-8, p/bk, $32.35
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Rei Kawakubo: For and against Fashion, Rex Butler (ed.) (2022)
By Hawa StwodahAvailable online: 25 November 2023More LessReview of: Rei Kawakubo: For and against Fashion, Rex Butler (ed.) (2022)
London and New York: Bloomsbury Visual Arts, 236 pp.,
ISBN 978-1-35011-822-5, h/bk, $115.00
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Political and Sartorial Styles: Britain and Its Colonies in the Long Nineteenth Century, Kevin A. Morrison (ed.) (2023)
Available online: 03 November 2023More LessReview of: Political and Sartorial Styles: Britain and Its Colonies in the Long Nineteenth Century, Kevin A. Morrison (ed.) (2023)
Manchester: Manchester University Press, 274 pp.,
ISBN 978-1-52615-307-4, h/bk, $195.00
ISBN 978-1-52615-306-7, e-book, $135.00
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Fear and Clothing: Dress in English Detective Fiction between the First and Second World Wars, Jane Custance Baker (2023)
Available online: 03 November 2023More LessReview of: Fear and Clothing: Dress in English Detective Fiction between the First and Second World Wars, Jane Custance Baker (2023)
London: Bloomsbury Publishing, 252 pp.,
ISBN 978-1-35024-030-8, h/bk, $82.80
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A New History of ‘Made in Italy’: Fashion and Textiles in Post-War Italy, Lucia Savi (2023)
By Rachel HartAvailable online: 03 November 2023More LessReview of: A New History of ‘Made in Italy’: Fashion and Textiles in Post-War Italy, Lucia Savi (2023)
London: Bloomsbury Publishing Plc, 204 pp.,
ISBN 978-1-35024-7758, h/bk, £85
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Fashion Brand Stories, 3rd ed., Joseph H. Hancock II (2022)
Available online: 03 November 2023More LessReview of: Fashion Brand Stories, 3rd ed., Joseph H. Hancock II (2022)
London: Bloomsbury Visual Arts, 216 pp.,
ISBN 978-1-35013-554-3, h/bk, $50.35
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When the clothes fit: Exploring the embodied transition to motherhood
Authors: Jaime R. DeLuca and Jacob J. BustadAvailable online: 29 September 2023More LessClothing practices can assist women in cultivating a particular body image and, thus, are sutured with details regarding how they manage their identity and appearance. Clothing can also help women cope with corporeal transitions, such as pregnancy. The relationship between clothing and one’s perception of their body shape changes during pregnancy as does how women feel about their clothes as they assume a new maternal identity. However, there is a lack of scholarly attention focused on exploring how postpartum mothers manage and relate to their bodies through clothing. Anchored in qualitative data collected from 128 in-depth, longitudinal interviews with 32 women at three, six, nine and twelve months postpartum, this article explores how postpartum body image, satisfaction and change are intricately linked with clothing across the first year after childbirth. Depicted through six women’s postpartum journeys, this article demonstrates that clothing becomes a barometer for bodily recovery following pregnancy and reveals details about maternal struggles, successes and spending patterns in the postpartum period.
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Philadelphia Store-y: Nan Duskin (1927–65)
By Clare SauroAvailable online: 29 September 2023More LessAnn Duskin Lincoln, the founder of the Philadelphia specialty shop Nan Duskin, dominated Philadelphia retail for decades and played a significant role in the development of American fashion. At its peak, Nan Duskin was one of the leaders of American retail, and its founder, Mrs Lincoln, was internationally recognized for her fashion instincts and was one of the most respected, feared, and loved retailers in the business. This article will focus on Mrs Lincoln and Nan Duskin from 1927 to 1965, a transformative period for American fashion. It will explore the unique social role of the women’s specialty shop in American retail during the first half of the twentieth century and the critical role they had in the promotion and development of American fashion. Exemplary in every aspect, Mrs Lincoln’s career is representative of the many independent female retailers that flourished in the first half of the twentieth century.
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‘The American Look’: The transformation of women’s sportswear in 1930s and 1940s America
Available online: 07 September 2023More LessThis article will suggest that the American sportswear style reflects the unique historical and cultural influences on American dress from the birth of the new democratic nation in the eighteenth century to the dominance of New York City’s ready-to-wear industry in the 1950s. Focusing on the key decades of the 1930s and 1940s, this article will explore the marketing campaign of Dorothy Shaver, vice-president of the luxury retailer Lord & Taylor, who in 1932 coined the phrase ‘the American Look’ to promote American fashion designers’ collections. The legacy of sportswear designer Claire McCardell, arguably the best known of the New York-based ready-to-wear designers will be examined. McCardell’s combination of nostalgic American prairie style with the use of everyday workwear fabrics of cotton plaid, denim, wool and jersey created an unpretentious casual American style based on comfort, ease and flexibility, which is reflected today in the contemporary American ready-to-wear market. The article will maintain that the promotion of the American Look via photographic shoots, magazines, advertisements, visual merchandising, exhibition and film influenced the style and taste of dress that the female American body ought to ‘fit into’. This style, it will be argued, encouraged the development of a cultural memory of American dress by establishing a material link between national identity and clothing.
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Determinants of a shift in consumer values towards minimalistic clothing consumption during global crises
Authors: Hanieh Choopani, Stephan Wallaschkowski and Samira IranAvailable online: 07 September 2023More LessThe COVID-19 pandemic, as a global crisis, has affected the clothing consumption behaviour of consumers and it might create long-lasting changes in the fashion industry. Such behavioural shifts during global crises should be considered for sustainability-related marketing concepts and the way marketers promote sustainable clothing consumption during and after the crisis. This study explores the determinants of a shift in consumer values towards minimalistic clothing consumption during the COVID-19 pandemic in the under-researched country context of Iran. First, a literature review was conducted on topics including sustainable fashion consumption and the COVID-19 pandemic, the status of sustainable fashion consumption in Iran, as well as the influence of demographic characteristics on sustainable consumption behaviour. Second, a quantitative survey was administered to a sample of Iranian consumers (N = 382). The results reveal a value shift towards more minimalism and sufficiency in clothing consumption during the COVID-19 pandemic in the country context of Iran. Moreover, the findings highlight that age and gender significantly influenced the extent of this shift in values, while surprisingly no significant value shift was found because of employment or income changes. This article makes a unique contribution by exploring the value shifts towards minimalistic clothing consumption during global crises. Furthermore, the results of the study shed some light on consumption behaviour in an under-researched middle eastern area.
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DEI representation on Instagram: An analysis of two fast fashion retailers
Authors: Sarah A. Zumbrock, Jihyun Sung and Ian R. MullAvailable online: 07 September 2023More LessAs fashion retailers have started to emphasize their responsibility in society, the significance of diversity, equity and inclusion (DEI) in the fashion industry has increased. This study explores the DEI commitments made by two fast fashion retailers (i.e. H&M and Zara) to examine whether they uphold and portray their DEI commitments through their Instagram postings by focusing on the following four DEI subcategories: people of colour, size inclusivity, LGBTQIA+ and physical disabilities. The study first analysed each retailer’s DEI statement to determine what claims each retailer makes regarding DEI. The data collection process comprised an examination of Instagram posts during the first week of every month from February 2021 to January 2022 utilizing the National Retail Federation (NRF) 4-5-4 calendar. Researchers collected qualitative/quantitative data and used content/comparative analysis to analyse the data. The findings indicated that representation might not be as equitable as their claims state. Based on the findings of this research, the study provides practical implications for enhancing DEI representation in retailers’ Instagram posts and marketing to facilitate more effective communication. Further, this study contributes to the existing literature on DEI commitments in the fashion industry by highlighting the practices of fast fashion retailers in their Instagram posts and marketing.
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Historical Perspectives on Sustainable Fashion: Inspiration for Change, 2nd ed., Amy Twigger Holyroyd, Jennifer Farley Gordon and Colleen Hill (2023)
By Joy SperlingAvailable online: 05 September 2023More LessReview of: Historical Perspectives on Sustainable Fashion: Inspiration for Change, 2nd ed., Amy Twigger Holyroyd, Jennifer Farley Gordon and Colleen Hill (2023)
London, New York, New Delhi and Sydney: Bloomsbury Visual Arts, 198 pp.,
ISBN 978-1-35016-044-6, h/bk, $100
ISBN 978-1-35016-043-9, p/bk, $34.95
ISBN 978-1-35016-043-9, e-PDF, $31.45
ISBN 978-1-35016-047-7, e-Pub, $31.45
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Crafting Luxury: Craftsmanship, Manufacture, Technology and the Retail Environment, Mark Bloomfield, Shaun Borstrock, Silvio Carta and Veronica Manlow (2022)
Available online: 10 August 2023More LessReview of: Crafting Luxury: Craftsmanship, Manufacture, Technology and the Retail Environment, Mark Bloomfield, Shaun Borstrock, Silvio Carta and Veronica Manlow (2022)
Bristol: Intellect Ltd., 187 pp.,
ISBN 978-1-78938-580-9, p/bk, $45.00
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Fashioning the Afropolis: Histories, Materialities and Aesthetic Practices, Kerstin Pinther, Kristin Kastner and Basile Ndjio (eds) (2022)
Available online: 10 August 2023More LessReview of: Fashioning the Afropolis: Histories, Materialities and Aesthetic Practices, Kerstin Pinther, Kristin Kastner and Basile Ndjio (eds) (2022)
London: Bloomsbury Publishing, 240 pp.,
ISBN 978-1-35017-952-3, h/bk, $103.50
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Why We Can’t Have Nice Things: Social Media’s Influence on Fashion, Ethics, and Property, Minh-Ha T. Pham (2022)
By Amy DorieAvailable online: 10 August 2023More LessReview of: Why We Can’t Have Nice Things: Social Media’s Influence on Fashion, Ethics, and Property, Minh-Ha T. Pham (2022)
Durham, NC: Duke University Press, 176 pp.,
ISBN 978-1-47801-861-2, p/bk, $23.95
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Textiles and Fashion, 3rd ed., Jenny Udale (2023)
Available online: 10 August 2023More LessReview of: Textiles and Fashion, 3rd ed., Jenny Udale (2023)
London: Bloomsbury, 216 pp.,
ISBN 978-1-35009-489-5, p/bk, $29.95
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Costume design in film: Telling the story and creating Malcolm X’s character in Spike Lee’s Malcolm X (1992)
Authors: Marta Torregrosa, María Noguera and Natalia Luque-ZequeiraAvailable online: 09 August 2023More LessCostume designers collaborate with film directors to bring the characters in the script to life. Film costumes are a visual tool of a narrative nature with which costume designers meet the diegetic needs of each story. Through clothing, they make internal aspects of the characters visible, such as their transformations, their nature and styles, their passions, aspirations and suffering, as well as aspects of the spatial, temporal and social context in which the stories take place. This study explores costume design by Ruth E. Carter as a dramatic tool in the biopic Malcolm X (1992), directed by Spike Lee. To that end, the function of film costumes is assessed both as a visual and narrative tool that exceeds the aesthetic dimension and is essential to give meaning to any film production.
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Food & Fashion, Melissa Marra-Alvarez and Elizabeth Way (eds) (2022)
Available online: 26 July 2023More LessReview of: Food & Fashion, Melissa Marra-Alvarez and Elizabeth Way (eds) (2022)
New York: Bloomsbury Visual Arts, 320 pp.,
ISBN 978-1-35016-434-5, h/bk, $45.00
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The ‘look’! Aesthetic labour, aesthetic norms and appearance-based recruitment in the runway modelling industry
Authors: Iva Jestratijevic and Nancy A. RuddAvailable online: 25 July 2023More LessAesthetic labour in the runway modelling industry refers to the practice of recruitment of models-workers on the basis of desired corporeal and facial dispositions. Aesthetic labour theory foregrounds embodiment, which situates the value of physical appearance and aesthetic norms in the workplace context showcasing how the models-workers get recruited and stratified based on their looks. The study employs an explanatory sequential mixed-method design to investigate aesthetic norms including the desired corporeal and facial dispositions that are expected from models-workers in the runway modelling industry. The study included two phases, a quantitative phase and a qualitative phase. The main objective of the first, quantitative research phase, was to investigate the aesthetic norms among 609 international runway models who were recruited to perform in designer exclusive fashion shows during seven consecutive annual fashion week seasons from 2013 to 2020 in New York, Paris, London and/or Milan. The main objective of the second qualitative research phase was to qualify aesthetic norms through a visual content analysis, and in-depth exploration of 40 unretouched professional modelling snapshots (photographs of face and body) for the top new model talents in the 2019–20 fashion season. Model photos were extracted from the popular industry website, Models.com. The rationale for collecting both quantitative and qualitative data was to form a robust and comprehensive assessment of aesthetic norms in the runway modelling industry. The same level of comprehensiveness would not be obtained by using either type of data individually. This article advances academic research on aesthetic labour in the fashion and modelling industry by showcasing why appearance-based recruitment in this sector represents the practice of occupational segregation that creates social inequalities and negatively impacts the labour market.
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Thailand Fashion Week
By Ali KhanAvailable online: 20 July 2023More LessReview of: Thailand Fashion Week, Spring/Summer 2023, Bangkok, 29–30 November 2022
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Fashion and Appropriation
Authors: Denise Nicole Green and Susan B. Kaiser
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