Cultural Studies
Rendered in Bits and Stone
Studies in (In)Tangible Digital Heritage
The field of digital heritage, definable in the most elementary terms as the application of digital technologies to the practices of conservation and heritage practices, has exploded in recent years.
Today it is typical to see 3D modelling, augmented reality, virtual tours and mobile apps as part and parcel of the heritage sector in a whole variety of ways. This has been reflected in academia with a growing number of conferences and publications dedicated to these questions.
The objective of this book is to offer an interdisciplinary examination of such practices which, it is expected, will reveal more of the nuances, interplays and a wider range of interests than is found in the current literature. To that end, the book offers chapters from international scholars in several disciplines: architectural conservation, archaeology, cultural tourism, urban studies and photography; heritage, film, game, museal studies, and scenography.
Their work deals with three broad areas of activity in the digital heritage field that this book defines as the ‘digital politics of conservation’; technology as a heritage ‘storytelling’ device; and digital technologies as tools to create ‘virtual models of the past’.
Outback
Westerns in Australian Cinema
Focusing on the incidence of the ‘Westerns’ film genre in the 120-odd years of Australian cinema history, exploring how the American genre has been adapted to the changing Australian social, political and cultural contexts of their production, including the shifting emphases in the representation of the Indigenous population.
The idea for the book came to the author while he was writing two recent articles. One was an essay for Screen Education on the western in Australian cinema of the 21st century; the other piece was the review of a book entitled Film and the Historian, for the online journal Inside Story . Between the two, he saw the interesting prospect of a book-length study of the role of the western genre in Australia’s changing political and cultural history over the last century – and the ways in which film can, without didacticism, provide evidence of such change. Key matters include the changing attitudes to and representation of Indigenous peoples and of women's roles in Australian Westerns.
When one considers that the longest narrative film then seen in Australia, and quite possibly the world was Charles Tait’s The Story of the Kelly Gang (1906), it is clear that Australia has some serious history in the genre, and Kelly has ridden again in Justin Kurzel’s 2020 adaptation of Peter Carey’s The True History of the Kelly Gang.
Medievalism, Popular Culture and Politics in Metal Music
The Case of Hispanic Epic Themes
Medievalizing epicism - defined as a style or sensibility that evokes the medieval and the epic—has been a hallmark of metal music since its inception. In this regard, metal is not unique among forms of Western pop culture; its fascination with the medieval owes much to the influence of fantasy literature, cinema, and later, video games. Yet medievalizing epicism also plays a key role in shaping (ethno)nationalist ideologies, fascist narratives, and alt-right discourse, as well as official efforts to foster patriotic sentiment. As such, it is often entangled with sexism, racism, nationalism, and exclusivity - elements that frequently echo in metal’s lyrics, imagery, and album art.
This book examines how metal engages with these tensions through the specific lens of medieval Hispanic epic themes. It explores whether and how metal bands deal with the problematic associations that medievalizing epicism can carry, and what this means for the broader metal scene. By exploring these intersections, Amaranta Saguar García invites readers to reflect on the cultural and political dimensions of metal’s medieval epic imagination.
This Open Access publication is funded by the research project PoeMAS: POEsía para MÁS gente. La poesía en la música popular española contemporánea (PGC2018-099641-A-I00, Ministerio de Ciencia Innovación y Universidades de España).
Post-Catastrophe Film
Cinematic Visions in the Aftermath of Disaster
What can post-catastrophe films tell us about our current real-world circumstances?
This book proposes that a new sub-genre of film called ‘post-catastrophe’ is emerging that displays narratives directly analogous to our current predicament of runaway climate disruption. Post-catastrophe film sits in the space between blockbuster disaster movies that use scenes of destruction to blow the world up and disrupt the flow of humanity and post-apocalyptic films where a version of society has formed in the ashes of the disaster.
In these narratives, the characters are thrown into a world of unsettling circumstances in which they have to adapt and strive for survival and reimagine the world as it changes around them. We face a similar predicament."
Performing Punctuation
Performing Punctuation gathers writers/performers to highlight, question and contest colonising facets of English language punctuation, while looking for ways to reveal and rarefy these proprietary rules such that they are responsive, playful, generous, generative, and ultimately more inclusive.
A transdisciplinary collaborative book that brings awareness to the limiting effects of the prevailing dominance of English language and its vociferous use of punctuation. The book's content and design is guided by this question: How can English language punctuation discard its domineering and strident overcoat to enable a greater diversity of readers, listeners, performers, writers, and practices?
Performing Punctuation, bears out digressions, indiscretions, transgressions and fabulations of grammatical marks unfaithful to propriety. It makes public an on-going and refreshed movement to play humorously and tenaciously with those small but powerful writing marks that regulate, discipline and structure textual language and spoken discourse. These marks, symbols and rule-makers are anything but a mere neutral grammatical systems; they are language gremlins and pixies; inflecting and infecting agents with histories, voices and messages of their own accord. These marks are understood as part and parcel to the on-going colonising history of the English language.
The collection brings together of a range of voices – Māori and Pākehā – and the collaborative editorial relationship with contributors allows conversation to develop between the elements of the book.
Decolonial Media Imaginaries
Decolonial Media Imaginaries (DMI) begins from the basic premise that imaginaries serve an important role in the articulation and elaboration of identity, sociality, collectivity, and solidarity, especially in terms of the co-fashioning of ways of life and living.
Imaginaries are designed to be inhabited and eventually to be lived in. The most dominant imaginaries of the industrialist past and late capitalist present have been most finely attuned to expanding the influence of colonial, capitalist, and neoliberal priorities and imperatives. One of the consequences associated with the circulation of these dominant imaginaries has been the marginalization and diminishment of other modes of representation that illuminate alternative ways of living that run counter to these powerful tools of worldmaking.
DMI lays the groundwork to examine the power and limitations of both dominant and marginalized imaginaries, suggesting that the work imaginaries perform is ongoing, longstanding, and deeply engrained in broader historical, political, and geographical currents. As such, this book offers a more speculative, albeit theoretically- and conceptually- engaged discussion surrounding the future viability and vitality of decolonial media imaginaries as instruments for decolonial worldbuilding.
Reconstructing the American Dream
Life Inside the Tiny House Nation
Over the past decade, Tiny Housing has become something of a viral sensation in the US. From Instagrammable enclaves for young professionals to vast municipality-supported schemes seeking to address homelessness, tiny house sites are proliferating across the country.
This book takes a look at life inside the ‘Tiny House Nation’, shining an intimate light on a phenomenon widely celebrated in the mainstream media. The book presents textured narrative accounts from and striking images of Tiny Home residents, their homes and communities, while analysing the broader socio-economic structures shaping their lives. In so doing, it paints a compelling and complex picture of a trend at the crossroads of several key social, cultural and economic shifts, at a pivotal moment for America’s housing future.
Fundamentally, this is a book about paradoxes. The paradox of tiny housing offering freedom from the constraints of capitalism, whilst at the same time remaining embedded within capitalist systems. The paradox of those who ‘go tiny’ both choosing an alternative lifestyle, and those who are pushed into tiny housing as a consequence of limited choice. The paradox of Austin, Texas, as both a countercultural enclave and hyper-capitalist tech haven. And the paradox of tiny house ethoses in Austin, as both centring community and shared assets, and individualist libertarianism. These paradoxes do not necessarily sit in opposition to one another, but are all bound up in the complexity of what tiny housing has to offer as an alternative way of living.
Despite its unattainability for all but the most privileged, the American Dream - the home-owning society, the suburban bliss, the white picket fence - remains emblematic of the residential Good Life. But in the decades since the turn of the millennium the dream has been shrunk down, expectations of a decent home literally reduced. Whilst for some this has led to forms of freedom and fulfilment, it has also contributed to the normalisation of cities so outrageously expensive that all people can afford are miniature homes on the urban periphery. As this book shows, both impacts of tiny housing are equally true, and one does not cancel out the other. Tiny housing embodies an important societal crossroads. In some respects, it offers an alternative to the prevailing housing status quo. In others, it demonstrates what options have already been taken away from us.
from the Introduction
‘In the rest of this book, we’ll lead you through our exploration of tiny housing in Texas. We’ll start, in the next chapter, by introducing some of the places and people we encountered on our travels to set the scene. Then, the ‘pathways’ chapter examines the various conditions and journeys through which people end up living tiny. As you’ll see, our attempt to produce a diagram of pathways to tiny living escalated into the production of a fully blown board game. We describe this diagrammatic board game to show the complex and nuanced personal and structural circumstances that lead people into tiny housing. From there, we go into three empirical chapters, focusing on economies of tiny living, the materiality of tiny housing as domestic spaces, and community culture. We then draw the book to a close, and speculate about what tiny housing means for the future of domestic life, especially in relation to the American Dream.
‘Throughout the book our descriptions are accompanied by photographs taken by Cian Oba-Smith, who accompanied us on our first trip to Texas in 2022. The hype around tiny housing is undoubtedly driven, in large part, by the aesthetic cultures surrounding it. Tiny homes are the picturesque, boutique, upmarket cousin of mobile homes and trailers. They are distinguished from these other types of small housing, as we’ll argue in this book, specifically by their aesthetics. Anyone who ventures into the world of tiny housing for more than five minutes will see how thick this aesthetic culture is. From beautifully curated Instagram pages, to countless coffee table books, to Etsy shops dedicated to crafted tiny house merchandise, a key part of living tiny is enjoying and embracing its aesthetics. By working with Cian we were able to focus (literally) on these aesthetic dimensions of tiny housing. However, we were also able to capture some of what’s not presented in promotional tiny house materials; the constraints, the challenges and the complexities that come along with the joy and the freedom. We’re positioning this book as something of a disrupted coffee table book. On an initial flick through it might not look too different to the photography books that valorise tiny living, but you’ll already know, if you’ve read this far, that our approach is more nuanced. Our attempt has been to expose the ‘real’ Tiny House Nation. Not to attack it, not to deny its beneficial impacts for a huge number of people, but to inject some nuance into the debate so that we can take forward the positives of tiny living without normalising the negatives.’
Reconstructing the American Dream
Life Inside the Tiny House Nation
Over the past decade, Tiny Housing has become something of a viral sensation in the US. From Instagrammable enclaves for young professionals to vast municipality-supported schemes seeking to address homelessness, tiny house sites are proliferating across the country.
This book takes a look at life inside the ‘Tiny House Nation’, shining an intimate light on a phenomenon widely celebrated in the mainstream media. The book presents textured narrative accounts from and striking images of Tiny Home residents, their homes and communities, while analysing the broader socio-economic structures shaping their lives. In so doing, it paints a compelling and complex picture of a trend at the crossroads of several key social, cultural and economic shifts, at a pivotal moment for America’s housing future.
Fundamentally, this is a book about paradoxes. The paradox of tiny housing offering freedom from the constraints of capitalism, whilst at the same time remaining embedded within capitalist systems. The paradox of those who ‘go tiny’ both choosing an alternative lifestyle, and those who are pushed into tiny housing as a consequence of limited choice. The paradox of Austin, Texas, as both a countercultural enclave and hyper-capitalist tech haven. And the paradox of tiny house ethoses in Austin, as both centring community and shared assets, and individualist libertarianism. These paradoxes do not necessarily sit in opposition to one another, but are all bound up in the complexity of what tiny housing has to offer as an alternative way of living.
Despite its unattainability for all but the most privileged, the American Dream - the home-owning society, the suburban bliss, the white picket fence - remains emblematic of the residential Good Life. But in the decades since the turn of the millennium the dream has been shrunk down, expectations of a decent home literally reduced. Whilst for some this has led to forms of freedom and fulfilment, it has also contributed to the normalisation of cities so outrageously expensive that all people can afford are miniature homes on the urban periphery. As this book shows, both impacts of tiny housing are equally true, and one does not cancel out the other. Tiny housing embodies an important societal crossroads. In some respects, it offers an alternative to the prevailing housing status quo. In others, it demonstrates what options have already been taken away from us.
from the Introduction
‘In the rest of this book, we’ll lead you through our exploration of tiny housing in Texas. We’ll start, in the next chapter, by introducing some of the places and people we encountered on our travels to set the scene. Then, the ‘pathways’ chapter examines the various conditions and journeys through which people end up living tiny. As you’ll see, our attempt to produce a diagram of pathways to tiny living escalated into the production of a fully blown board game. We describe this diagrammatic board game to show the complex and nuanced personal and structural circumstances that lead people into tiny housing. From there, we go into three empirical chapters, focusing on economies of tiny living, the materiality of tiny housing as domestic spaces, and community culture. We then draw the book to a close, and speculate about what tiny housing means for the future of domestic life, especially in relation to the American Dream.
‘Throughout the book our descriptions are accompanied by photographs taken by Cian Oba-Smith, who accompanied us on our first trip to Texas in 2022. The hype around tiny housing is undoubtedly driven, in large part, by the aesthetic cultures surrounding it. Tiny homes are the picturesque, boutique, upmarket cousin of mobile homes and trailers. They are distinguished from these other types of small housing, as we’ll argue in this book, specifically by their aesthetics. Anyone who ventures into the world of tiny housing for more than five minutes will see how thick this aesthetic culture is. From beautifully curated Instagram pages, to countless coffee table books, to Etsy shops dedicated to crafted tiny house merchandise, a key part of living tiny is enjoying and embracing its aesthetics. By working with Cian we were able to focus (literally) on these aesthetic dimensions of tiny housing. However, we were also able to capture some of what’s not presented in promotional tiny house materials; the constraints, the challenges and the complexities that come along with the joy and the freedom. We’re positioning this book as something of a disrupted coffee table book. On an initial flick through it might not look too different to the photography books that valorise tiny living, but you’ll already know, if you’ve read this far, that our approach is more nuanced. Our attempt has been to expose the ‘real’ Tiny House Nation. Not to attack it, not to deny its beneficial impacts for a huge number of people, but to inject some nuance into the debate so that we can take forward the positives of tiny living without normalising the negatives.’
The Time Inheritors: How Time Inequalities Shape Higher Education Mobility in China, Cora Lingling Xu (2025)
Review of: The Time Inheritors: How Time Inequalities Shape Higher Education Mobility in China, Cora Lingling Xu (2025)
Albany, NY: State University of New York Press, 256 pp.,
ISBN 979-8-85580-191-0, p/bk, USD 35.95
The role of public speaking at The Walt Disney Company: An application of Diffusion of Innovations
Drawing on the principles of Diffusion of Innovations, this article examines Disney’s emphasis on public speaking through its various television programmes, during training sessions for employees and even at its theme parks. Introduced by Everett Rogers, Diffusion of Innovations postulates that an innovation is initiated within a specific group of people. Then, it is diffused via specific channels across the larger cultural context. Stressing the importance of public speaking for Disney’s employees can be an innovation that matches Disney’s pre-existing system, which would require fewer changes and would be easy to adopt. Taken as a whole, what this conceptual and theoretical analysis demonstrates is that public speaking has emerged as a vital skill within The Walt Disney Company due to the innovative nature of its organizational environment, which emphasizes storytelling, transformation and global collaboration. At its core, Disney is a brand built on the power of stories that connect with audiences across cultural and generational boundaries. This narrative-driven focus extends beyond its films and theme parks to its internal and external operations, where public speaking plays a critical role in shaping the company’s image, inspiring employees and fostering meaningful stakeholder engagement.
The politics of vulnerability: Asylum-seeking women and EU migration policy in Greece
Issues concerning refugees and asylum-seekers are very much on the minds of law and policy-makers worldwide. This article seeks to understand the way the concept of vulnerability is used in forced migration in the European Union. It does so by examining the experience of women asylum-seekers in Greece, to assess their vulnerability, especially regarding the social–legal–economical conditions that favour the commission of sexual and gender-based violence (SGBV) against them. The article, therefore, examines the EU legal framework to understand the role vulnerability plays. Drawing from empirical fieldwork conducted by the authors in Greece, and an examination of the literature, the study examines the importance of the concept of vulnerability in the context of forced migration. The article examines how the notion of vulnerability is useful to indicate how women asylum-seekers are at greater risk of SGBV. It examines that vulnerability through the issues connected to organizational and structural issues in refugee camps and other types of accommodation used by these people, to indicate how these matters exacerbate their risk of various types of SGBV. The study argues that the notion of the vulnerability paradox ought to be used within an intersectional framework to ensure that such persons receive proper protection.
The cultural logic of the attention economy: Channel 991 on YY
Using YY, one of China’s earliest live-streaming platforms, as a case study, this article investigates the cultural logic of the attention economy in the context of streaming media. Drawing on semi-structured interviews and participant observation, I examine the everyday practices and dynamics that shape live-streaming on YY. I argue that live-streaming reconfigures our understanding of the attention economy through three conceptual dyads: attention and distraction, commodity and intimacy, agency and passivity. By analysing the hierarchical structures of attention and its commodification within the live-streaming sphere, this study offers new insight into the rapid expansion of live-streaming industry in China and its significance for global digital cultures.
Performing under pressure: Probationary migrant wives and marital expectations in Hong Kong and Melbourne, Australia
Migrant wives on spouse visas find themselves in a state of transition. The conditional and temporary nature of their legal status positions these women precariously, with their wait for permanency causing legal limbo. Although research into the insecurity and precarity of women on spouse visas is increasing, we know little about how power imbalances between these women and their sponsor husbands are enacted and sustained through quotidian family practices. Responding to this gap, this article analyses the everyday experiences of 39 wives who, after migrating with a type of spouse visa to Hong Kong (n = 20) and Melbourne, Australia (n = 19), faced significant pressure from their husbands to perform ‘good wifeliness’. Although highly diverse and residing in two different social contexts, these women are connected by how these expectations can be traced to their visa status, specifically its purpose (for an intimate partnership), transitional and probationary nature and underlying sponsorship arrangement. Ideas of good wifeliness imposed by the women’s husbands are further underpinned by pressures to demonstrate legal deservingness as migrants seeking to move from a transitional legal status to permanent residency. Remnants of this dynamic continue even after separation, pointing to the long-lasting effects of arriving by spouse visa.
Fractured massacre: Gwangju, Theresa Hak Kyung Cha and Han Kang
The nature of suppression and resistance is that modes of movement fracture time and power. In examining Theresa Hak Kyung Cha and Han Kang’s reckoning with the Gwangju Uprising and Massacre, this article works to grapple with how resistance efforts and the state’s military response to political action ripple through time. Witnessing both Cha’s and Kang’s depictions of the 1980 Gwangju Uprising and Massacre both history and the text itself represent resistance to fixed and defined (re)tellings. In many ways, literature helps to better recognize how state-sanctioned violence disorients and forever fractures our relationship to history and memory. State violence thus works to create chaos and erase any trace of it ever happening. With Cha’s Dictee and Kang’s Human Acts, the legacy of Gwangju continues to unravel and its afterlife remains unresolved.
The Shape of Power: Stories of Race and American Sculpture, Karen Lemmey, Tobias Wofford and Grace Yasumura (2024)
Review of: The Shape of Power: Stories of Race and American Sculpture, Karen Lemmey, Tobias Wofford and Grace Yasumura (2024)
Washington, DC, Princeton, NJ and Oxford: Smithsonian American Art Museum and Princeton University Press, 292 pp.,
ISBN 978-0-69126-149-2, h/bk, USD 65.00
ISBN 978-0-69126-151-5, e-book, USD 32.50
It is giving inspiration: A survey paper on generative AI in fashion
Generative artificial intelligence (GenAI) has been experiencing a surge of interest in the past few years, and much has been said of its applications in creative areas. Fashion design is no stranger to innovation, and recent advances in GenAI have brought several new tools and platforms that pave new ways of working and creating for both students and designers. This survey paper collects a selection of representative works that explore the presence of GenAI in Fashion design. A total of nineteen papers from 2016 to 2024 were reviewed. From the identification of garments and their attributes to sketch creation and image-to-image translation, this compilation of works offers multiple views on the applications of technologies such as convolutional neural networks, generative adversarial networks and diffusion models. This analytical overview provides a valuable understanding of the field, opening new possibilities for Fashion designers to work with artificial intelligence.
Urban masculinity: Activewear as identity markers for Indonesian male consumers
This research investigates the role of activewear as a representation of modern masculinity in urban Indonesia. The study used qualitative research methodologies, including interviews with ten Indonesian men who actively include activewear in their wardrobe choices. Such exploration will look into the dynamics at play at the nexus between fashion, fitness and masculinity within this setting. The findings indicated that activewear is a multidimensional signifier of contemporary masculinity, signalling a movement away from the stoicism associated with traditional masculinity towards a health-and-fitness-emphasized, modern and active lifestyle. Overall, participants showed an overwhelmingly strong association between the concept of healthy lifestyle and activewear, where sportswear was seen as wearing an image of fitness and discipline, a desirable life. It illustrates that globally and locally relevant constructions of male identity intertwine, as most of the ideals of athleticism and masculinity depicted through the western media get appraised by participants with consideration towards Indonesian cultural logic focused on harmonious coexistence and community bonding. Additionally, when choosing clothing, comfort and usefulness work together to enhance the brand’s image. They preferred brands with images they would like to portray and those offering high-quality, functional clothes. Sustainability was an increasingly important consideration, but high prices barred most from choosing such options. This research develops the understanding of how fashion and consumerism shape masculine identities in contemporary Indonesia. By placing activewear in this context, the study places a valuable insight into the changing dynamics of masculinity in the fast-changing urban landscape.
The Brand New Future, Bob Sheard (2025)
Review of: The Brand New Future, Bob Sheard (2025)
London: LID Publishing, 240 pp.,
ISBN 978-1-91739-128-3, h/bk, GBP 12.99
Examining dress to express gender in relation to other identities
This article examines perceptions of LGBTQIA+ expression of their identities through dress. The research utilizes intersectionality theory that encompasses additional identities an individual may have to understand how LGBTQIA+ individuals express their gender through dress and the impact of other identities on the expression of gender identity. This study is significant because it contributes to research on gender identity and dress by examining it within the context of intersectionality theory. In-depth interviews were conducted with LGBTQIA+ individuals from two regions in the United States. The results revealed that in addition to gender, participants actively portrayed their profession, personality/lifestyle, social group, religious group, sexual orientation and financial status through dress. They also discussed biased treatment due to additional identities such as ethnicity, financial status, profession and age. While gender was important to express, other identities impacted their experiences as part of the LGBTQIA+ community and their dress selections. This research has practical applications for human resource managers and teachers in post-secondary education to interact with employers or students as a whole individual with many intersecting identities.
Displaying cultural heritage in innovative designs: A study on the preservation and innovation of China’s Pai Yao traditional clothing
Yao embroidery from Liannan Yao Autonomous County, Guangdong Province, represents a crucial element of China’s intangible cultural heritage, embodying both artistic expression and cultural identity. This study identified and explored innovative designs for culturally significant traditional Yao patterns. Employing literature review, case studies and field research, Yao clothing patterns from northern Guangdong were collected, vectorized and digitally analysed using Adobe Illustrator and Photoshop. A modern pattern series was developed, and CLO3D software was applied to simulate virtual clothing models that incorporate these traditional patterns. The research evaluated the cultural identity of both contemporary and traditional Yao consumers through the production of physical garments. Findings demonstrate the effectiveness of virtual design in preserving and promoting ethnic cultural characteristics while driving innovation in the fashion industry. This study contributes to the preservation of Yao patterns and illustrates how virtual displays can safeguard traditional heritage for application in today’s fashion industry.
Music and sounds as catalysts for manifesting fantasy in fashion spaces
Creating resonance between an audience and brand identity is often a long-term process but can be made instant through proper music implementation. This research explored music listening behaviours and their effect on inducing fantasy/daydreaming within fashion spaces (domestic, retail and runway) and specifically if fantasy strengthens garment self-association. Creating this connection between music, a garment and a physical space could result in an elevated visitor experience and signals a preference for curated experiences. The study undertook a phenomenological approach through surveys, wardrobe interviews and Mirror Time (using a mirror to pull on subconscious thoughts). The short-form survey and long-form interview had sample sizes of fifteen and four, respectively, covering several age groups from 21 to 35. Results showed that genre, task, music agency and desire mitigated fantasy/daydreaming. Additionally, music listening behaviours split into two audience groups: one using music for fantasy and the other for focus. Fashion spaces were mapped on a Store–Space (x), Object–Product (y) continuum to assess their properties, which, in conjunction with the audience groups, provided a framework for organizations to develop accurate music strategies. By integrating curated music experiences into a marketing strategy, a more consistent and meaningful brand–consumer resonance can be created.
From couture to code: Reimagining fabric development through AI-enhanced material narratives
As artificial intelligence (AI) becomes more embedded in fashion design, questions arise about the values these systems encode. Current tools emphasize speed, novelty and surface aesthetics, often overlooking the cultural, emotional and material dimensions of sustainable practice. This article proposes Slow AI: a speculative, ethically grounded framework rooted in fabric memory, narrative depth and material literacy. Drawing on material culture theory and studio-based research, it critiques how generative AI simulates sustainability while neglecting provenance and care. Through case studies of Marine Serre, BODE and FAÇON JACMIN, the article shows how designers already model the relational intelligence AI might one day support. A speculative toolkit outlines functions such as archive mapping, emotionally annotated datasets and story-aligned prompts. Rather than accelerating production, Slow AI reframes design as a process of co-authorship, rooted in repair, friction and the ethics of making.
Refashioning the fashion: Handloom products and western wear in North India, 1860s–1950s
This article explores how changing textile fashions and evolving consumer tastes reshaped handloom production in North India between the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries. British imperialism and industrialization transformed the social practices of textile design, production and consumption in colonial India. The implications of these new fashion arrangements – often overlooked – led both consumers and producers to engage, consciously or not, with the modernizing colonial project. The article argues that responses to European industrial fashion were not merely imitative or passive but marked by selective appropriation and strategic revival of Indigenous styles. These sartorial choices reflected deeper social negotiations, expressing class, hierarchy, nationalist sentiment and evolving identities. The handloom industry, far from being obsolete, adapted to new fashion regimes, making cloth a powerful site of cultural expression and social change in the material world of colonial India.
The psychology of colour: How context and mood shape wardrobe choices for middle- and high-class Gen X women in Jakarta
This research focuses on how urban socialite Gen X women in Indonesia, particularly Jakarta, use colour in their fashion choices as a form of identity communication. Achromatic colours (such as black, white and grey) and bright colours (such as red, yellow and bright blue) are essential elements that often reflect the lifestyle, social status and personality of urban Gen X women. This research explores the meaning of colour in a symbolic context, focusing on how preferences for achromatic and bright colours function as a medium for communicating identity and social status. A qualitative phenomenological approach explored personal experiences and meanings of fashion colours within a social context. Symbolic interactionism theory was applied to understand how colour meanings are formed through social interaction. In addition, social identity theory helps identify the use of colour as a symbol of status and group affiliation. These two theories guide in analysing how socialite Gen X women in Indonesia express identity through fashion colour choices in various contexts. In-depth interviews were conducted with ten middle- and high-class Gen X women in Jakarta who are active in social communities, professional, fashionable and have primary and brightly coloured fashion in their collections. Respondents discussed the main factors in choosing fashion, perceptions of colour and the relationship of colour to self-identity and culture. The findings are to provide an understanding of how middle- and high-class Gen X women use fashion colour as an aesthetic and a form of self-expression amidst urban social dynamics.
Taste and temporality: The rise of AI trend forecasting
This article critically examines the emerging role of artificial intelligence (AI) in the field of fashion trend forecasting, focusing on how machine-learning technologies reshape the aesthetic and commercial dimensions of predicting style. Drawing from fashion studies, philosophy and management studies, this article interrogates the shift from qualitative, expert-led trend forecasting to data-driven, predictive systems that claim to map and anticipate consumer taste at scale. It explores how these systems function not only as tools of prediction but also as producers of cultural meaning, taste hierarchies and aesthetic norms. The article offers a new perspective on AI forecasting in the academy, which has thus far focused on its technical aspects. By analysing AI fashion trend platforms, I explore a critical framework for understanding the implications of AI-driven trend forecasting in both commercial and cultural contexts.
Queer Style: Revised and Updated Edition, Adam Geczy and Vicki Karaminas (2024)
Review of: Queer Style: Revised and Updated Edition, Adam Geczy and Vicki Karaminas (2024)
London: Bloomsbury Visual Arts, 251 pp.,
ISBN 978-1-35036-592-6, h/bk, USD 90.00
‘Fast hospitality’ and technology: Contemporaneous connections between ‘liquid’ and ‘solid’ in modern times
This article explores the use of technology to provide hospitality at high speed. The requirements of economic competition and achieving profitability underpin the need for speed. Speed, in this article, is viewed as a function of Zygmunt Bauman’s notion of liquid modernity but also points to evidence of solid structures. Solidly positioned corporations set the pace of the speed agenda. Trade journal articles offer insight into the corporate-managed push for technology-driven speed. Themes are noted that relate to ‘fast hospitality’: an overarching concept that blends the desire for speed and liquid relations with the profit-seeking practices of ‘solidly’ entrenched corporate entities. The interplay between Bauman’s notions of solid and liquid is presented as one of contemporaneous connection rather than historical transition. Rather than representing a shift from the liquid to the solid – a notion more consistent with Bauman’s work – ‘fast hospitality’ would appear to be deployed in a way that weaves them together strategically. Such actions help corporations avoid uncertainty as well as address an absence of focus and clear direction: conditions typically associated with liquidity. ‘Fast hospitality’ is a function of solid organizational structures that aim to preserve a rationalized economic order, thus minimizing uncertainty, during liquid modern times.
Nuclear Gaia
Media Archives of Planetary Harm
Describes the transformations we have witnessed due to the development of nuclear science and technology, accelerating policies interdependent on energy, and military procedures that have led us to make a provocative claim that, in many respects, planet Earth is getting closer to the embodiment of the project we call Nuclear Gaia.
The book examines media archives and online platforms that recover data and memory and shape community knowledge of nuclear events from the distant and nearer past. These are the pieces of evidence that we are on the eve of creating new forms of social justice, carried out by open-source investigations (OSINT) groups, independent researchers, artists, media makers, activists, local communities, and civic groups.
Thus, analysing nuclear processes and their social and environmental consequences is no longer the exclusive domain of experts, scientists, politicians, and the military. The authors hope that such communities’ practices and decolonial discourses, combined with the critiques within our methodology as post-nuclear media studies, can also change the fate of nuclear industry victims by creating media space to discuss and regain justice as socially sanctioned and shared rules for understanding and using nuclear energy both in past and the future.
Postnuclear Communication and Grassroots Archives of Catastrophes
Postnuclear Media Studies and Infrastructures of Nuclear Regimes
On the Communicative Turn in Philosophy
Exploring Intersubjectivity, Community and the Ethics of Dialogue
The book gives prominence to the way the concept of communication has been deployed within philosophical debates. It shows how philosophers have adopted this concept in their discussions on the issues of intersubjectivity, community and the ethics of dialogue.
Although mainstream philosophers do not, as yet, consider the philosophy of communication as a branch in its own right, instead subsuming it within the philosophy of language as pragmatics, the concept of communication is broader than that of language. This book aims to develop the relationship between communication and philosophy further.
Mangion hopes to encourage others to conduct further research by aligning communication with questions that are of a philosophical nature.
Understanding effective citizenship education in special needs education: Comparing regular primary education with special needs primary education
Research conducted in regular primary education (RPE) identified aspects of effective citizenship education, such as the teacher–student relationship and an open classroom climate for discussion. In schools for special needs primary education (SNPE), such insight is missing. This study examined differences in citizenship competences between students attending SNPE vs. RPE and the moderating role of several characteristics of citizenship education. To do so, we conducted multilevel analyses based on 3782 students in 179 schools. Students in SNPE obtained lower scores on civic knowledge, self-estimated skills and attitude. Whereas the role of some characteristics was not as expected and asks for further research, this study shed light on several important factors, such as the attention for specific learning goals in citizenship education, that form an important basis for further research into characteristics of effective citizenship education in SNPE.
The Neoliberal Self in Bollywood
Cinema, Popular Culture, and Identity
This book explores the consequences of unbridled expansion of neoliberal values within India through the lens of popular film and culture. The focus of the book is the neoliberal self, which, far from being a stable marker of urban, liberal, millennial Indian identity, has a schizophrenic quality, one that is replete with contradictions and oppositions, unable to sustain the weight of its own need for self-promotion, optimism, and belief in a narrative of progress and prosperity that has marked mainstream cultural discourse in India. The unstable and schizophrenic neoliberal identity that is the concern of this book, however, belies this narrative and lays bare the sense of precarity and inherent inequality that neoliberal regimes confer upon their subjects.
The analysis is explicitly political and draws upon theories of feminist media studies, popular culture analyses, and film studies to critique mainstream Hindi cinema texts produced in the last two decades. Rele Sathe also examine a variety of other peripheral ‘texts’ in her analysis such as the film star, the urban space, web series, YouTube videos, and social media content.
Introduction
Architectural expressions resonant with Islamic traditions appear in diverse modes across the Americas, from Andalusian-inspired colonial patios in Peru to the modern and contemporary patronage of immigrant communities in the United States and Canada. This volume examines the multiple manifestations of Islamic architecture that permeate the region's built environment to invite an expanded framing of this architectural legacy via a hemispheric consideration of aesthetics, narrative, and patronage. By productively placing in dialogue sites that represent Islamic and Islamicate architecture across North and South America – two areas outside of the traditional conceptions of the Islamic world– this volume bridges transregional and transcultural gaps in the current literature.
Independent and/or Instrumentalized: Surveying Mosque Architecture in Chile (1986–2006)
This chapter presents three iterations of mosque architecture in Chile: As-Salam Mosque in Santiago, Bilal Mosque in Iquique, and the Mohammed VI Center for Civilizational Dialogue in Coquimbo. During certain periods of time—especially in the 1980s and 1990s—Muslims in Chile were afforded a degree of political independence from foreign influence. I argue that this independence allowed Islamic architecture in Chile to develop on its own terms and to acquire unique valences within Chilean society. More recently, mosque architecture in Chile has been overtly instrumentalized by foreign influences for political and decidedly non-religious means. The case of Chile's mosques allows us an architectural lens through which to examine the diversity of actors who employ, often via novel means, Islamic architecture for their own ends. A close examination of the planning, construction, and operation of these mosques reveals Chile's particular position within in the broad network of global Islam.
The Turkish Style Cozy Corner: Everyday Appropriations of Islamicate Objects and Spaces in the American Parlor, 1885–1910
The ‘cozy corner,’ ‘Turkish cozy,’ or ‘Turkish nook’ was a fashionable interior design phenomenon in western Europe and the United States between roughly 1885–1910. The corner was often styled after an imagined harem scene reminiscent of descriptions in the popular One Thousand and One Nights and visuals stemming from Orientalist paintings, world's fairs, and department store displays. Marketed as a space of relaxation for women at home, these ephemeral, tent-like spaces contained a low, cushioned seating area and were filled with a variety of furniture, designed objects, and foliage associated with so-called oriental or exotic locales. This chapter interprets Turkish style cozy corners as heterotopic spaces that enabled middle- and upper-class women to explore and construct presentations of self through the collecting and organizing of Islamicate objects within the space of the Victorian parlor.
A ‘Church of Mosque Proportions’: Debates of Mudéjar Style in New Granada
The early studies on Ibero-American, so-called colonial art, focused on key questions such as the nomenclature of its historic styles, the descriptions of its visual language, and the legitimacy of American art under Spanish rule. Hispanic culture, as a strong cultural model in the Americas, set the caste system as a rule to measure cultural production value and purity. Within that frame, Spanish scholars conceived the category Mudejar, defined as the visual heritage of Islamic culture in the Iberian Peninsula. But the problem of Mudejar arrival in the Americas remains due to the prohibition for Arab descendants to travel to the New World and the Spanish struggles as a Catholic nation with Islamic traditions. This essay addresses this issue from a historiographic standpoint, seeking to show how an art historical debate reflected many ideas tied to religion, race, and cultural identities in studies of New Granada—roughly modern Colombia.
Constructing Orientalism in Interwar Florida
In 1926, famed aviator Glenn Curtiss oversaw the construction of an urban development named Opa-Locka, his latest venture in real estate speculation. Opa-Locka was envisioned as a self-sufficient township, located just north of Miami, Florida. Unlike nearby projects like Coral Gables, however, the architects of Opa-Locka had a very specific theme guiding their designs: The Thousand and One Nights. This literary work informed every aspect of the town's appearance, and designers made reference to a wide variety of historical monuments across the Islamic world. From the City Hall—an agglomeration of domes and towers loosely looking to the funerary complexes of Mamluk Cairo—to the Alhambra-esque tilework of the local train station, Opa-Locka was a dream world built for the aspiring white middle-class family during the Roaring Twenties. This study presents the architecture of Opa-Locka as a fascinating case of modern identity formation in the United States and considers how Opa-Locka fits into a wider phenomenon that can be described as ‘Florida Orientalism’, in which the region emerged as an ersatz Orient in the American imagination, a unique set of circumstances leading to a proliferation of cultural projects inspired by the Middle East and beyond.
Diasporic Aesthetics and the Genealogy of an Urban Mosque: An Analysis of the Islamic Center of Washington, D.C.
The space of emplacement for the first purpose-built urban mosque in Washington, D.C., was developed by Italian-born architect Mario Rossi ‘with an ensemble of relations that makes them appear as juxtaposed, set off against one another, implicated by each other – that makes them appear, in short, as a sort of configuration.’ In a penetrating critique of space, such architectural encounters have featured prominently in the essay ‘Of Other Spaces: Utopias and Heterotopias’, where Foucault has classified ‘other spaces’ to encode them in his analysis according to their function, fragmented arrangement, and the relation among sites.
Design, Disruption, and Disease: Reconstructing the Historical Context of the ‘Mosque-Type’ Chapels in Sixteenth-Century Mexico
The sixteenth century chapel of San José de los Naturales, in Mexico City and others in Cholula, Toluca, Etzatlán and Jilotepec all followed a unique hypostyle plan. They were built with more than three naves and had open façades, both foreign elements to Spanish Catholic architecture, and closer to Andalusian mosques. Recently it has been suggested that the reason for the construction of these buildings in such a fashion was to accommodate the perceived ‘Islamic’ identity of the indigenous population. This paper rejects that claim and examines other possibilities related to the character of the religious institutions that operated at the time of construction. It examines the importance of the plagues of the sixteenth century and their impact in building campaigns, as well as the experimental character of early colonial architecture in Mexico to explain the rationale behind the construction of these rare buildings.
Canadian Mosques: Hybridity of Form and Program
The heritage of Muslims in Canada dates back to over a century ago. The spaces Muslims gathered in ranged informally until the construction of the first purpose-built mosque in 1938. Since then, over 160 mosques span the geographical extents of country from the extreme north to the west and east coasts. This chapter will focus on the analysis of case study mosques demonstrating hybridity of form and program in two distinct regions in Canada, the west and east coasts.
Midwest Middle East: Forms of Synthesis in Chicago's Bahá’í Temple
The construction of a devotional temple, or Mashriqu'l-Adhkár, on Chicago's North Shore was initiated in the early twentieth century by the first North American adherents of the Bahá'í Faith. This globally oriented religion of Iranian origin sought to create an architectural representation of Bahá'ism's tenets of social and spiritual unity, while ensuring that its message aligned with contemporaneous American society, producing an oscillation between Middle Eastern origins and western ambitions. Bahá'ism sought to domesticate itself within the American social and spiritual imaginary, sensible to both the limits and opportunities of ‘Oriental’ association. Negotiating deployments of the Middle Eastern signifier, the Bahá'í temple aimed to synthesize the markers of its cultural theological provenance, especially those associated with Islamic mosque architecture, eliding them into a non-hierarchical multi-style hybrid, while preserving and repurposing their signification. A similar structural tendency governed North American Bahá'ism itself, mediating the ways it positioned itself within American idealism.
Echoes of Mashrabiya in Latin America: Reconsidering the Balconies of Lima
In this text, I examine a particular connection between Latin American and Islamic architecture– specifically, the balconies closed with latticework frequently found in several colonial cities of the Americas, but predominantly in Lima, Peru, and their parallelism with the mashrabiya, so frequently observed in the Islamic world. This Latin American version of mashrabiya was associated with medieval Islamic Iberian architecture, whose visual heritage arrived in the Americas with colonial settlement in the 16th century. Lima adopted this particular kind of balcony as one of their most important local symbols. Since then, we have known them as ‘balcones limeños’ (balconies of Lima). This topic has been profusely developed in Latin American literature. I will discuss here the current explanations about the origins of this structure, how this Islamic-inspired architecture arrived in Peru, and why it was so frequently constructed in Lima. Then, I will propose a new interpretation of this singular case, understanding that it is not a foreign or exotic oriental influence, but a typical Latin American feature based on an interest in privacy in architecture– a legacy of the Islamic tradition that ultimately became an internal component of Peruvian societies.
Crafting Cosmopolitanism in the Brazilian Mahjar: Eclecticism and Orientalism in the Syrian-Lebanese Architectural Patronage of Centennial São Paulo
This chapter examines the architectural patronage of the Arabic-speaking diaspora in Brazil by concentrating on key case studies in São Paulo—a major epicenter for migration from the Middle East to Latin America since the late 19th century. From bustling commercial districts to palatial residences, these structures and their eclectic modern styles appropriated Islamicate architectural forms to underscore a cosmopolitan Syrian and Lebanese identity, while serving as a strategic mode of countering anti-immigrant discourses and marking upward mobility.
Islamic and Islamicate Architecture in the Americas
Transregional Dialogues and Manifestations
Architectural expressions resonant with Islamic traditions appear in diverse modes across the Americas, from Andalusian-inspired colonial patios in Peru to the modern and contemporary patronage of immigrant communities in the United States and Canada. This volume examines the multiple manifestations of Islamic architecture that permeate the region’s built environment to invite an expanded framing of this architectural legacy via a hemispheric consideration of aesthetics, narrative, and patronage.
Chapters consider a broad range of topics from the migration of aesthetic traditions and construction techniques tied to the architectural forms of the Islamic world in the colonial “New World,” to the direct contributions of modern and contemporary migrants in shaping a collective identity and the built environment.
By placing in productive dialogue sites that represent Islamic and Islamicate architecture across North and South America – two areas outside of the traditional conceptions of the Islamic world– this volume bridges transregional and transcultural gaps in the current literature.
The Being of Relation
How does whiteness sediment worlds? How does it format individuality in the name of a neurotypicality that polices how one bodies, and how one comes to know? And how does a poetics of relation shift the very logic of this sedimentation?
Edouard Glissant’s poetics of relation are bold in their call to “consent not to be a single being.” This transindividual consent, born in the process of worlds crafting themselves in what he would call an “aesthetics of the earth,” are felt in Fernand Deligny’s errant lines. These errant lines, traced to move with the complex gestures of autistics over a period of several years in Monoblet, France (1965-1970), offer an alternative to pathology, and individual psychological assessment.
The Being of Relation brings these two projects into encounter, exploring what else blackness can be at this non-pathological juncture where what is foregrounded is the very being of relation. On the way, trails of whiteness are excavated and interrogated. The aim: to move toward parapedagogies of resistance, in a logic of a poetics of relation, a logic of neurodiversity, minor sociality and the kind of difference without separability that refuses the binary that holds neurotypicality – as whiteness – in place.
Removing the Educational Silos
Models of Interdisciplinary and Multi-disciplinary Education
This collection was written by educators who are engaging in multi- and interdisciplinary education and are led by curiosities encompassing the collaborative nature of cognitive and kinesthetic engagement and awareness.
The chapters are designed as sources for inspiration, replication, and adaptation. They are a place to start or continue. Each chapter, in varying modalities, addresses interdisciplinary course development and implementation in institutions of higher education. The common themes that emerge in the collection include navigating administrative systems and solving the challenges encountered when crossing departments or colleges, whether it be regarding listing of courses or the intricacies of course load on each professor.
Many chapters also provide detailed information on the nuts and bolts of the specific course or courses taught, including syllabi, lesson examples, and both formal and informal assessments implemented. Multiple case studies are included in this collection, with many chapters providing specific examples of students’ work.
Contributors candidly offer discussions of failures and successes of their interdisciplinary collaborations, be it in course design, lesson planning or complications brought in by unforeseen pandemics. Most chapters end with a section entitled ‘Lessons learned’, where experiences from the field provide opportunities for growth and continued exploration.
Readers can follow the book from cover to cover or dip in, finding the chapters that serve a particular project or teaching endeavour. The varying writing styles and topics are in direct relationship with the exact nature of the inspiration for this text. The over-arching themes of collaboration (diverse backgrounds, ideas, and skill sets, multidisciplinarity, and interdisciplinarity) are the consistent touchstones that create a thematic self-guided journey of exploration through the book.
The chapters offer readers guidance and encouragement to implement some of the approaches described, and inspiration to forge their own paths in the world of multi- and interdisciplinary teaching and research. The depth and breadth of collaborative possibilities are exciting, and the editors’ goal is to spark further experimentation.
An excellent and practical resource for any educator hoping to teach his or her subject matter through an interdisciplinary approach and for all courses revolving around topics of pedagogy. The key audience will be graduate students, and teachers in all stages of education from primary to higher education.
Children under occupation: Conflicts, camps and agential identity in Ghassan Kanafani’s Palestine’s Children: Returning to Haifa and Other Stories
This article closely analyses four stories of Ghassan Kanafani from his collection of short stories titled Palestine’s Children: Returning to Haifa and Other Stories (2000), translated by Barbara Harlow and Karen E. Riley. The chosen short stories narrate the stories of Palestinian children who are subjected to violence, oppression and exile. The article, by analysing the historical events of Palestine and its repercussions on the Palestinian ‘child’, foregrounds the ‘Bare Life’ and the agential identity of children in the crisis, who are forced to take on adult caretaking roles. Kanafani’s stories mourn the generations of child refugees who live a ‘Bare Life’ in the refugee camps, frequently exposed to conflicts, violence and poverty. However, the article argues that the figure of the child becomes an agent for Kanafani to delineate the Palestinian problems, history and political movements and acts as a potential symbol of resistance and change in the liberation struggles.
Adorned in American dreams: Cultural memory and the style of the American far-right
In 2017, various conservative, far-right and alternative-right (alt-right) groups banded together in Charlottesville, Virginia at the Unite the Right rally in efforts to protest the removal of a Confederate era monument in the city and to demonstrate unity among these activist factions. The rally served as a nucleation point for the examination of a new trend of political fashion as images of mostly white males dressed in white polos, button-front shirts and variations of khaki trousers decorated headlines. This shift into a seemingly bland smart-casual style marked a contemporary intrigue into how right-wing activists engage with fashion. Yet, the selection of such an aesthetic amid the increased US political turmoil of the time was neither random nor a fashion faux-pas, rather a reflection of far-right ideological perceptions of Americanness. In this article we explore a critical conjuncture of fashion and far-right political activism by examining the smart-casual uniforms of two contemporary far-right groups, the Patriot Front and the Proud Boys. Through a lens of cultural memory, this article demonstrates how the curated smart-casual style of far-right groups reifies their ideology through the presentation and abstraction of the myths and histories of American national identity.
Unearthing Gaia’s fury in Africanfuturist short fictions: ‘Eclipse Our Sins’ and ‘Oduduwa: The Return’
The article offers an ecocritical analysis of two Africanfuturist short fictions within the framework of apocalypticism, decoloniality and the Gaia hypothesis. While in Tlotlo Tsamaase’s ‘Eclipse Our Sins’ (2019), the Earth teeters on the verge of total societal and ecological collapse, Imade Iyamu’s ‘Oduduwa: The Return’ (2019) presents a post-apocalyptic world where humans are colonized by a superior alien race. Both narratives present an eco-horror manifested through Gaia’s vengeful disposition against ecological injustices. Upholding various African myths on Mother Earth and contextualizing those as opposed to colonialism, racism and otherisation, the article positions Africanfuturism as a decolonial option against Anthropocentric/western epistemes.
Walking the city: The New York stories of Peter Stamm
This article examines the Swiss writer Peter Stamm’s New York stories as a case study of the relation between city space and the short story form. Drawing on the theories of Michel de Certeau, for whom walking and telling stories opens up routes through the city in analogy to the linguistic speech act, it shows how Stamm’s stories open out New York as a kaleidoscope of experienced, imagined and remembered spaces and also offer the basis of an approach more widely applicable to the city-based short story.
Are you not entertained? Fashion, sport and the interest convergence of contemporary entertainment
On 26 July 2024, the Paris Olympics featured an opening ceremony that became one of the most iconic openings in history, primarily due to the showcase and partnership between the games and fashion house Louis Vuitton. Although the worlds of sport and fashion have historically been a space of great consternation, contemporary sport and fashion collaborations (like those in the Olympics) have shown that the two worlds are better off as partners than as competitors. In the age of digital/social media, along with the growing need to creatively encapsulate the attention of younger audiences, sport and fashion are facing the ushering of a new relationship wherein they explore creative collaborations, sponsorships, endorsements and collections to increase their brand awareness and identity. Through an interest convergence lens, the worlds are colliding due to their shared interests of new (younger) audiences, increase global reach, and increase brand awareness. Much like LVMH sponsoring the opening ceremonies of the Olympic Games in Paris, the overlap between sport and fashion marks the beginning of a new age of conjoined entertainment.
From Sleepwear to Sportswear: How Beach Pajamas Reshaped Women’s Fashion, Janine D’Agati and Hanna Schiff (2024)
Review of: From Sleepwear to Sportswear: How Beach Pajamas Reshaped Women’s Fashion, Janine D’Agati and Hanna Schiff (2024)
London: Bloomsbury Academic, 272 pp.,
ISBN 978-1-35023-192-4, p/bk, USD 39.95
Victims or aggressors? The depiction of violence against and by women in Disney contemporary films
This study investigates the portrayal of direct and indirect violence in five contemporary Disney films featuring female protagonists: The Princess and the Frog (2009), Tangled (2010), Brave (2012), Frozen (2013) and Moana (2016). By adopting a gender-sensitive lens, the research aims to identify trends regarding who commits and experiences violence, highlighting women’s roles as both victims and aggressors. Utilizing content analysis, the study categorizes violent acts – including physical aggression and psychological abuse – based on character gender. Findings reveal that while male characters are often depicted as both perpetrators and victims of direct violence, women frequently engage in both forms of violence. However, if we consider data proportionally, female characters commit more violent acts per character than men. The analysis uncovers two significant trends: violence generating further violence and instances of intra-family violence, particularly affecting mother–daughter relationships. These dynamics illustrate how traditional gender stereotypes are challenged through violent behaviours and offer insights into the complexities of female empowerment within the narratives. Ultimately, the article underscores the need for a nuanced understanding of violence in children’s media, emphasizing the implications of these portrayals for societal perceptions of gender and aggression.
Elio Fiorucci, curated by Judith Clark, Triennale Milano, Milan, 7 November 2024–16 March 2025
Review of: Elio Fiorucci, curated by Judith Clark, Triennale Milano, Milan, 7 November 2024–16 March 2025
‘It will show you what a Beauty will become in order to please a Beast’1: McLaren and Moore’s Fashion Beast as commentary on the fashion industry
The result of a collaboration in the 1980s between provocative fashion industry insider Malcolm McLaren and leading comic book writer Alan Moore, the graphic novel Fashion Beast (2013) has an inherent interest. The fairy tale Beauty and the Beast, as retold in Jean Cocteau’s film La Belle et La Bête (1946) formed the basis for their reinterpretation of Christian Dior’s life as a ‘fashion beast’. McLaren and Moore’s scepticism towards authority and capitalism and Moore’s rejection of Thatcherism have also left their mark on the story. Using mirrors as structuring metaphors, Moore lets struggles over values and identity play out in a dystopian urban environment centred on the House of Celestine. My study introduces McLaren and Moore’s collaboration on Fashion Beast. I then outline the plot of Moore’s graphic novel. The bulk of the study focuses on status-seeking model Doll Seguin, trickster–provocateur and aspiring designer Jonni Tare, and Jean-Claude Celestine, the Dior-like ‘fashion beast’ who is creative director of the House of Celestine. Through these characters, Moore exposes the ‘bestial’ nature of the fashion industry’s preoccupation with style and appearance, which goes hand in hand with its cultivation of the status-enhancing power of the image. Moore’s open-ended plot makes us wonder if there is any solution to the problems plaguing the fashion industry as depicted in Fashion Beast.
Parasocial interaction and the effects of Gen Z purchase intention on TikTok
Individuals are exposed to viral fashion trends daily on social media channels. This study focuses specifically on Generation Z (Gen Z) and their purchase intentions regarding viral fashion trends on the popular social media channel TikTok. Specifically, the study aims to better understand how the virality of a video on TikTok impacts the purchase intention of Gen Z through examining parasocial interaction (PSI), perceived interactivity, loyalty, openness and willingness to share information with the content creator. An online experiment was conducted wherein 280 Gen Z participants saw a viral or non-viral video of the same product being featured. Findings indicate that participants’ perceived loyalty, willingness to share and perceived openness of the influencer had significant positive effects on their PSI, which in turn impacted their purchase intention. In addition, virality of the video directly impacted their purchase intention as well. The results identify the current questions surrounding Gen Z’s purchase intentions with viral fashion trends viewed on TikTok. The results suggest strategies to create viral marketing content that is critical for marketers to reach large audiences and build brand awareness.
The development of an aesthetic language for fashion: Improving efficacy for emerging generative AI contexts
This pilot study explored the articulation of fashion design students’ aesthetic design language for fashion (ADL-F) and investigated methods for improved efficacy. Using a three-pronged theoretical framework (information theory, descriptive linguistics and multimodal discourse analysis) a three-phase analysis was conducted consisting of thematic, content and spatial mapping evaluations of student ADL-F statements and corresponding sewn garments. Findings reveal aspects of literal visual translation of garments in student work, but difficulties overusing metaphorical and vague language. A developed instrument found significant associations between ADL-F variables and quality ratings and highlighted challenges in specificity, clarity and accuracy for many variables such as pattern, texture and function. A spatial mapping approach was developed that further revealed gaps in comprehensive ADL-F descriptions. Insights indicate that improved ADL-F would include precise language, reduced metaphor use, enhanced knowledge and usage of ADL-F variables, and comprehensive spatial descriptions of the design in applications of academic, professional and emerging GenAI contexts.
Timeless threads: Exploring zero-waste design principles in ancient Persian clothing
This study explores the principles of zero-waste and minimal-waste design within historical Persian garments from the pre-Islamic period, examining how these ancient techniques can inform contemporary sustainable fashion practices. Through qualitative analysis of historical texts, visual materials and an expert interview, the research identifies key characteristics of garments from the Medes, Persians, Achaemenids, Parthians and Sassanids that align with modern sustainability principles. The findings reveal that these garments employed simple geometric patterns, minimal cuts and innovative construction techniques – such as draping and pleating – that significantly reduced fabric waste while enhancing garment longevity and visual appeal. This article emphasizes the importance of integrating historical insights into current fashion design education, proposing that these ancient practices can inspire contemporary designers to create sustainable garments that align with zero-waste principles. Ultimately, this research contributes to the broader discourse on sustainable fashion by highlighting the relevance of historical design practices in addressing today’s environmental challenges.
The Modern Venus: Dress, Underwear and Accessories in the Late 18th-Century Atlantic World, Elisabeth Gernerd (2024)
Review of: The Modern Venus: Dress, Underwear and Accessories in the Late 18th-Century Atlantic World, Elisabeth Gernerd (2024)
London: Bloomsbury, 352 pp.,
ISBN 978-1-35029-337-3, p/bk, USD 37.95
Construction of social reality in Korean pop culture fan community: A netnography study on Instagram and Twitter
This study analyses how the Carats (Seventeen fans) and Nctzen (NCT 127 fans) communities construct the reality of daily life related to their idols based on the communication between fans to create a common understanding. Every individual K-pop fan usually tries to build communication and interact with fellow fans in the same fandom in order to exchange views related to their favourite idols. Social media is used to interact because social media reaches its users regardless of time and place, making it easier for users to interact without any difficulties. This research uses a qualitative approach with a constructivism paradigm, also using netnography research methods including observation and interviews. The informants consisted of one Seventeen fan and one NCT 127 fan. This research found that social media is very important for K-pop fans to interact and provide information about their idols. The symbols commonly used by fans in a fandom and also equal enthusiasm for their idols provide shared meaning for fans in the fandom. In addition, this research also reveals that there are some fans who can easily invite other fellow fans to meet, but there are also K-pop fans who take a long time to finally decide to meet directly with online friends who are fellow idol fans.
Imperatives of using artificial intelligence in modern clothing design: Systematic review
Over the past decade, artificial intelligence (AI) has rapidly permeated various human activities. AI developments are utilized by professionals in design-creative processes, including art, fashion, design and so forth. Consequently, the purpose of this study is to analyse the role of neural networks in contemporary fashion design and the operations of design, marketing and advertising companies. To achieve the set goal, the following methods were employed: analytical, comparative and methods of generalization and systematization. The research determined that the use of AI in modern fashion design offers potential for creating new opportunities and transforming traditional approaches to the creation and sale of fashionable products. The experience of using AI in design, marketing and advertising campaigns also evidences the successful application of neural networks in creating innovative collections, unconventional design solutions and in the development of personalized marketing and demand forecasting and future trend analysis. However, alongside the advantages, AI application also raises ethical and social issues. Concerns about the use of personal data, copyright and AI’s impact on employment in the fashion industry require expert attention and discussion. Furthermore, against the backdrop of the rapid development of AI, threats to humanity as a whole emerge, which also need consideration. The conclusions of this article may be useful for designers, art historians, marketers, AI specialists and anyone interested in the use of neural networks in contemporary fashion design and its influence on the fashion industry.
Fashion consumer purchase decision and influence of social media marketing: An empirical inquiry in the Kingdom of Bahrain
Social media platforms have a lot of opportunities that can take fashion brands to the next level by using different social media features to market their products and services. With the new technologies available nowadays, the use of social media platforms increased all around the world; people are aware of using social media platforms to read the news, play games, be in touch with family and friends, buy products and more. This research will investigate the effectiveness of social media marketing and how it affects fashion consumers’ purchase decisions with the newly developed technologies in the social media platforms and explore most social media platforms used in the Kingdom of Bahrain, as well as investigate the role of social media influencers and how they affect the consumers purchase decisions with their marketing skills. This research consists of both primary and secondary data; primary data come from a questionnaire conducted with fashion consumers of Bahrain, interviews with social media influencers and a site visit to clarify most of the points regarding the influence of social media marketing on fashion consumers.
Weaving Europe, Crafting the Museum: Textiles, History and Ethnography at the Museum of European Cultures, Berlin, Magdalena Buchczyk (2023)
Review of: Weaving Europe, Crafting the Museum: Textiles, History and Ethnography at the Museum of European Cultures, Berlin, Magdalena Buchczyk (2023)
London, New York, Oxford, New Delhi and Sydney: Bloomsbury Visual Arts, 224 pp.,
ISBN 978-1-35022-673-9, h/bk, USD 117.56
ISBN 978-1-35022-674-6, ePDF, USD 36.85

